Heated Floor Installation—Simplified
that are considering electric in-floor heating for your space but think it’s
too difficult to put in place? Installing electric radiant heating can be much
easier than they think. Follow Amy Matthews’ guide to installing a TempZone
Flex Roll. If they have any questions during the process, advise them to contact
a WarmlyYours in-floor electric heating expert.
two are hard at work already this morning.
time to waste.
an early start.
did. Nice job, you guys.
want to have some warm feet in the morning.
well, this is the easy part, so that’s good. At least you got that done.
(laughs) Let me borrow this for one second. Let me show you how this is going
to work. Now what we did, we sent in the dimensions of our new space here. And
they sent us back this customized plan of how to install it. So that is what
these guys are doing right now, the layout. You probably want that back, don’t
this is the warming system. It’s a fiberglass mesh, and inside of it you’ve got
the warming unit that’s sewn into it in this serpentine pattern. Kind of cool,
but it’s going to be covered up. So what we’ll do is we’ll put our tile right
on top of this, and then we’ll have a electrician come in and hook up the
programmable thermostat. And that’s it. Super easy.
marking off the fixtures, Tom and Gary also mark the position of the sensor
that regulates the programmable thermostat and the areas where we will be
turning corners on our mesh panels. It’s all laid out on the plan, so it’s
right, you guys, so all the lines are down.
I think we’re good.
right, so let’s talk about electricity.
what we’re going to do here is a test on this heating system to make sure there
are no shorts in the line, and there was no damage to it while it was
transported here. So, what we’re going to base our test on is this sheet right
here. They did a test at the factory before they sent it, and they tested the
core lines. And it was 30.32 ohms. So the way that you test that is with this;
this is an ohmmeter. And what we are going to do is turn this on, and then we
will, we want to touch our core line to our core line and check the continuity
of it. So the core lines are our white lines, and the other ones are our
ground. Okay? So since the number they had was 30.32, it looks like we’re
reading 30.3, 30.2, and we need to be plus or minus 15%, so it looks like we’re
I’m going to need someone to write it down on here, because as we go with the
installation with this, we want to take several different tests. Or the same
test, but several different times, to make sure we haven’t damaged it as we’re
we’re going to do a dry fit with our panels. At the end of the run, we use a
utility knife to cut the mesh, being careful not to clip the wires. Then we
flip the mesh and turn the corner.
this dry fit looks perfect. I think we are ready to glue it down. How are you
with a hot glue gun?
pretty good with it. I’ll give it a shot.
hot glue will tack our panels in place so they don’t move around during the
tile installation. The plan also calls for free-from areas. This means we
remove the wire from the mesh and fill in the small areas. We hot glue the wire
to the floor, and tape it until the glue sets. Once all the panels are in
place, it’s time for another test.
at that; we look perfect.
Same numbers as it was last time?
it’s good sign.
Gary adds the sensor for the programmable thermostat to regulate the heat for
the warming system.
right, you got the sensor in place?
so the last thing we need to do then is run these lead lines over to the
junction box, and the electrician is going to make the final connection. So our
work here is pretty much done.
we come back, setting tiles over floor-warming panels might look intimidating,
but stay with us because it’s easier than you think.
going to start setting the time over the warming system, and come back and fill
in the rest of the tiles later. The areas without the warming system will need
to be built up with extra thin-set.
this is a little more delicate work on top of the mesh here. That’s because we
don’t want to damage the new warming system.
use a half-inch by half-inch u-notch trowel held at a 45-degree angle to apply
the thin-set. We are only applying enough thin-set for one tile at a time. We
need to use extra thin-set to build up the cement board since there are no
warming panels under it. This is the area under the vanity, so there’s no need
to heat the space. I’ll back-butter the tail to ensure enough buildup.
said to do a really angled notch in here, and that looks like enough. How does
it look to you?
it looks great.
work will really pay off, because once the floor is grouted it’s going to look