Radiant Experts: Ask Us Anything
In this webinar, our radiant experts answer your questions about floor heating, planning out projects, and more. We review our most popular products for floor heating and how to best pair them with their respective floor materials.
Hello, thank you for joining us. My name is Lynn, and I am here as a customer service rep for warmly yours, and today I am joined by. I'm Scott from warmly yours. What a coincidence. And today we're talking about or today you can ask us. Anything is really what our presentation is on. So we're going to be going over some, you know, some information in general on our product, and then we're going to answer any questions that you might have about any of our products. So some people have sent them in ahead of time and we'll be addressing those if you have any questions during the presentation. Feel free to ask them, either in that sidebar chat or at the bottom of the screen in the Ask a Question module. If we don't answer them right away, we'll definitely see it and get to them by the end of the presentation today. So starting out, Scott, can you tell us a little bit about our TempZone products and what we're looking at here? TempZone has been around for a very long time. We started in business like in 1999 or before, and we've had a product like this ever since. And this is a product that goes just about you can make it work for just about any flaw that you have. It's compatible with tile stone marble hardwood. It's what we use to heat LPT and linoleum, and it can be used in shower floors and shower benches because it's waterproof. And it's wet location listed in the US and Canada, which means it can go in the shower and you don't have to worry about any problems with it. It's only an 1/8 of an inch thick, so it doesn't add a lot of height to your floor height. A lot of people say, well, why don't you just make the cable thicker so we can pound on it more? And then the answer to that is, well, a lot of people like it then because then it doesn't raise their floor a lot. If we made this cable like the size of a snow mill cable. Then your floor would be 2 inches above your adjacent area. So that's why it's so thin, because it's very strong. It provides a lot of heat, and it doesn't add a lot of height to your installation. It comes on cables. Just like there, you can see a spool of cable there that you can use to install it in your areas or your floors. And the thing is, with cable, it's a little more user friendly when it comes to curved areas and angled areas of the roll product, which we sell. The most of the roll product is really great for rectangular areas because you're taking a rectangular system and rolling it out and then cutting the mesh and turning it. And that's really good at fixing filling rectangular areas, whereas the cable is really good at fixing non rectangular areas. Awesome, so talking about cable, Scott, you had kind of touched on that briefly. Two ways to install cable one is of fixing or using fixing strips, which are those little red plastic pieces that you see in the bottom right over there, where they can just be laid out along the edges of the room or the edge of where you're heating, and then you can just kind of string that cable back and forth. And then we also which again, is really great for, like you said, like those harder to reach areas, those places that are a little bit more, not just the perfect rectangular square. It's also a little bit cheaper as well. It's a little more labor intensive, but you can save some money doing it that way. And then the Progresso membrane is the other way to install these cables. This is an uncoupling membrane, so it's going to add some extra support to your tile floors, and you would just be able to snap that cable into those channels and again, be able to run it back and forth and do some interesting shapes and things like that, if needed. Yeah, the thing is, we don't rely on the predecessor to lay our cable down. You can use Prodeso or you can use the strips. A lot of our competitors don't have that flexibility and they just sell you the membrane, even if you don't need it. And there are a lot of floors that don't need the membrane, so it's an extra cost that you don't have to incur. So if you're looking at definitely budget installation, cable and fixing strips are the least expensive way to go. So we already have a question, Lynn. And the question is, how do I submit a question and simply that goes out to edward? You just type it exactly where you typed that question, Edward, and then we will be glad to answer your question. Absolutely OK. I just had to do some, some housekeeping to make sure everything was good. So yeah, the prudential membrane doesn't add a lot of height to it. They're both about the same height, the strips or the membrane. However, the obviously the strips are going to be much less expensive than a membrane is. So our other floor heating or are their most popular floor heating products, I should say, is our environ system. So these are, again all electric. They do look a little bit different. The cable is a little bit different. And this is going to be going underneath. You can put it under carpet if you're in the United States. And you can put it under laminate or floating or engineered hardwood pretty much anywhere. And then these do come in both rolls and a match. So we have pre sized mats that you can just put in one specific space, maybe a small bathroom or something like that. And then we also have those rolls that can be cut and turned. And can you tell us a little bit about the technical specifications behind environ? Environ is between 10 and 12 watts per square foot, so it provides a lot of heat. The mats, the easy mats are our fastest and easiest installation method. It's simply it's like a great big pad, like a big thing that you would unroll and you lay it out on the floor and you put the flooring over the top of it. It's the fastest and easiest installation when it comes to environ. It's done with floating applications, so it attaches to 0. So the environment does not attach to the sub floor, and the final flooring does not attach to it. Everything that's used with this product is a floating installation, and that would be like engineered hardwood or laminate. I did not say and carpet in the USA. So if you're doing carpet in the USA, what you do is you would use a carpet pad that has a good value, which most half inch rebond has. And then you get that ribbon down on the subfloor and then you put this product on top of it and then you stretch put the stretch stretching carpet above it and then stretch it and your installation is done. Large areas can be done with one mat, so you really only have sometimes only one connection at the thermostat. So as I said, it is the fastest installation that you can do because there's no thinset to mix. There's no glue, there's none of that stuff. But the thing to keep in mind is with environ, it never sits on two hard surfaces, so you can't have a hard surface below it and above it because they do this. And eventually that will abrade through the wire years and years and years down the road. It will wear it down like sandpaper. So that's why one side has to be on a padded surface. And we put that padded surface over the subfloor and then lay this product on top of it. If you take a really close look at this roll, you can see that the wires are exposed on the edges. I don't know if you can see that you probably can't see that on my. That's one of the product improvements. It doesn't show the cursor anymore, but what I'm doing is I wish I had like an honor of John Madden. I wish I had the thing that he would telestrator that we could draw on the screen here would help out a lot. Rest in peace, John. But what that is that cable that allows you to roll the product out and do cuts and turns of the fiberglass reinforced material and allow you to turn it and roll it. So this product, if you look at it, you can see the wires sticking out along the edges, those wires. This side needs to be facing down the environment, product. That's the big mess that you just roll that you just lay out like a carpet. Those can go either way. But this product that rolls out, if you can see the exposed wires, the exposed wires need to go Downward. So that's environ. In a nutshell. That's some great information, thank you. So looking at underlayment, now this is our Cerazorb, it's a synthetic cork. So Cerazorb is a really, really great product. If you're going to be installing somewhere with a concrete slab somewhere in the basement, any place that has concrete, you're really going to want to make sure that you're putting some kind of insulation in between the slab and the heat itself. Can you kind of elaborate on that, scott? Why that would be the case? Well, I wish I would have recorded the call that I just did right before I walked up here from someone in Texas who installed their cable directly on top of a slab, and they were asking me why their temperatures don't get into the upper 80s. And the reason why is because you're heating the slab below the flooring first before it starts to heat the surface that you really want to feel warm. So what you want to do is you want to isolate the heating wire from the slab so the heat goes up and no where else. So any law of thermodynamics, no matter how simple you keep it, the if you take a slab that's five inches or 6 inches thick and time the amount of time it takes to warm that versus heating the 1 inch surface above that slab, you're going to get much faster heating times in that 1 inch application, and it's going to get warmer because the heat's not going down into the slab, so it's providing a thermal break. So I had to explain to him that they chose it not to use it, and they're going to get a floor that isn't cold. If you use Cerazorb, you're going to get a floor that is warm. So there's a difference between isn't cold and warm, and that's usually mid 70s if you don't use Cerazorb or 85 80 four, 80 six, 80 eight, whatever that temperature is, if you use Cerazorb, so it does make a difference. 10 what I started here 13 years ago, Cerazorb didn't exist. We were kind of suggesting caulk because we knew that the cork made the heat go up instead of down, and we were kind of like the only company that was shouting this from the mountaintops. You need to get that wire off of the slab, and it's really, really done some great things for people that need that heat. And we also have some scientific studies that have been done provided by the company that makes Cerazorb that we'll be glad to send you if you're curious about that. But the tests I've done with a thermal camera, you can see exactly where the insulation is in a room and exactly where it isn't, because we did a room specifically showing underlayment and no underlayment. And you can see what the thermal camera. It's much, much brighter and much, much warmer. So that's what's so good about underlayment. And it also lets you use this product with environ. Because environ, no matter we talk about the product that heats the floor, then the heating part. We've talked about the non heating lead, the thing that gets the power from your thermostat over to the heater that has to make its way across the floor over to the wall to go up to the thermostat. Well, that is about a quarter of an inch thick, and that's where the series rub comes in. It's a 1/4 inch thick, too. That allows you to run the cables back to the wall without the flooring teeter tottering over the top of that cable. If you didn't do that, you'd step on the wood over here to do this, and then it would teeter totter over that wire. So the underlayment does a lot of different things, and all of them are beneficial for your floor heating. Absolutely so our other floor heating product is our indoor slab heating and now kind of like temps own, these do come on a mat or as a loose cable, and this is a really good product if you're going to be having a finished concrete floor. So if you're going to be doing a polished concrete basement or something like that, this would be what you're looking for. Can you kind of talk a little bit about slab heating, scott? I know there's a lot of information on this one. Yeah back in the day, way back in the old days when the only radiant heat that people were doing was hot water in a slab. What you wanted to do when you had flooring above it, as you wanted to make sure that flooring had is lower value, anything above the slab you wanted the heat to get through so you don't want to heat a slab and then put something with an R value of 5 on top of it, because it'll never allow the heat to get to your feet. It'll trap it in the slab. So back in the old days, you would get you would heat the slab, and we would do that now with this product. And then you want a low r value. Like if you're doing carpeting, you want a low value pad and a low r value carpet to allow the heat to get through. If you're heating with environ, you want a high r value pad to keep the heat from going down and a low r value carpet to let the heat go up through. So it's just a different idea when you're doing a finished concrete floor. There is no flooring on top of it. You need to make it look pretty, but you also want it to be warm. This is the product you use new installation with a non finished with a floor that has its own finish. No flooring installed on top is the big driver with this product. Awesome yeah, it's not especially popular, but when people put it in, if they're doing polished concrete, it works very well. Yeah, it's the only game in town for polished concrete and you want to do electric. So that's where this stuff really comes in handy and the cable versus the mats can use, you can pour concrete through these mats. The mesh is a 1/4 inch and 1/4 by an inch and 1/4. So all you need to do is to tell your concrete installer that you need to use sub 3/4 inch aggregate, and that will allow all of that concrete to flow through the mesh. It won't strain it, like if you use inch, aggregate or inch and 1/4 aggregate. As it goes through the mesh, it'll get trapped on the top of the mesh. So all you'll do is you'll have liquid concrete going to the bottom and a real rough aggregate on the top. So what you need to do, it's very, very easy to install. Just say sub 3/4 inch aggregate and the concrete will flow right through. Obviously, the mats are the fastest thing to install. The cables take longer because you're literally literally going to be using thousands of tie Downs or tie wraps to hold it in place on your reinforcement. So looking for a quick install, it's going to be the mats. If you're looking to do areas that are not exactly rectangular, you're going to be one to doing using the cable or if you're looking to save money. I have some people who are willing to, you know, spend an entire weekend running the cable back and forth to save a couple thousand dollars. So it comes down to what the priority is. So this is a really great example of our smart plans. So talking about our smart plans, you'll hear us kind of mention those a lot. These are our complimentary layouts where we're actually going to show you based on your houses or your spaces, dimensions and layout, what products you need from us and how exactly they'll be laid out in that space that you know, every step of that installation from start to finish. What we normally need for these is if you are able to send in a drawing of the space with the dimensions, it doesn't need to be pretty. You might have an architect's layout that is 15 pages and beautiful and really, really detailed. Or you might be, you know, drawing it on the back of a piece of plywood. We've gotten both and we can make anything work as long as the dimensions are accurate, which tends to be the main thing. Make sure that you're getting us the size of the space correct, because once you receive your products, these can't really be cut or lengthen, so you want to make sure that you're ordering and receiving the size that you need. So on these smart plans, this is one for one of our timezone flex rolls. So there is a lot of really great information on these that, you know, there's kind of a treasure trove of information when you're looking at the bottom of the smart plan, there's always going to be a lot of information on the electrical specs. So operating cost, amperage wattage, things like that. And then you're also going to have underneath the drawing a bit of a key showing you where the start, the end and the thermostat is and all of that stuff. Can you kind of walk us through Scott with the mouse if you're able to, where exactly the starting end points are? Oh, it's showing up this time. Break it out. The first thing I have to stress, I talk to people every single day, seven days a week, 24 hours a day. The number one thing I try to get across to New customers or people that don't have experience with this is don't try to figure out how big of a role that you need or don't try to figure out the length of cable you need on your own. It's hard enough for people that have experience to know how to do it correctly. Our engineers do this every single day, multiple hundreds of times per day. And the thing is you don't have to wait for this, for this thing. You'll probably be ready for you. The next morning and they're free. So even if you want to go to Amazon or go somewhere else to buy it, get the design first, because then you are going to get the correct product because you can't buy. An 800 foot spool of cable and put it in a small bathroom and just cut it off when you're done. You cannot shorten or lengthen the heating cable, it cannot be altered. So what you need to do is you need to get the right size product installed or for your product, for your project. And the best way to do that is to send us the drawing and on here you can see we show you exactly how to lay it out. We tell you how many amps it is, so you can tell your electrician that it will tell you what kind of breaker you need, so you can tell your electrician that it's all included for free and you just go here, electrician. Here's my plan get me the right wire size. Give me the right breaker. All that other stuff. So we show you how to lay it out so you don't have to try to figure out on your own. And we show you where the start is that's shown by a triangle and a t for the thermostat. You need to let us know where you want your thermostat because if you decide, hey, I told them this, but I want to move the thermostat over here. That's going to be a problem, we have to redesign this, so the starting point goes over here. And we can do that for you. It's not a big deal, but if you were talking to the customer, they go, hey, you know what? I want to buy over by the mirror over here. OK, we'll just let us know where you market. We will then redesign it for you and start the map here instead of ending it on this end. So that's all going to be there. The most important thing is when you order it from we know construction jobs are constantly changing. If you get a dimension of a room today, six months later, when they're getting ready to install the flooring, that may change if they change the size of the bathtub and make the bathtub bigger. Well, that's going to be taking up some square footage on your floor. And now the product that you ordered for 100 square feet will not fit into a floor that's only 80 square feet. Now You can't cut the product, you can't shorten it. You can't just say, I'm going to cut it here and throw the rest away. You can't do that. So always, always, always. We always say, check the dimensions, make sure the dimensions are the same as they were when you order, because 100 foot square foot cable is not going to fit in an 80 square foot area, and we need to know where the permanent fixtures are. We don't heat under these. Also, we don't heat under the toilet. You want to stay four inches away from the wax ring so it doesn't melt. And we also if you're doing a shower like here, we could also provide you shower heating product for the floor. Also waterproofing shower curbs. We offer all of that stuff. So we have a lot of different things that we can do in this bathroom, and this is just one of the smart plans that we do. So let's take a look at it. The next smart plan. And what's the difference between this one and the last one, lynne? So this one is showing you how you do a cable installation with that underlayment so that blue uncoupling membrane. So again, similar concept, it just looks quite a bit different. As you see, that highlighted blue area is actually where the Progresso is going to be going. Progresso, since it does add a height difference to the floor, does need to go under the entirety of the flooring, whether you want heat specifically in that space or not. So you can see it going underneath the toilet, it's going underneath the vanities. This way, you're not going to have any kind of weird height difference in the middle of the room or something like that. And then again, the arrow and the black square showing you the start and the end, and then you're going to run this cable again back and forth in the channels of that Progresso kind of snapping it in making sure that it's held in place, it's a pretty easy way to do cable, a pretty quick way to do cable as long as you are following the instructions laid out in the smart plan. So it's going to show you at the bottom or almost the bottom. There are two really important parts of this that I always like to make sure people are aware of. The first is that this is going to show you what your spacing needs to be for each run of cable for protest. So the average tends to be 3.75 inches. And Scott, correct me, if I'm wrong, that's three of those little pegs in each one, correct? Right Yeah. So you'd basically be doing, you know, skipping every 3 and then running a new run of cable and then in the middle. If you look by the tub kind of in that bottom left of the tub, there is a red that's the halfway mark for the cable. And that is actually going to not only be on that drawing, there's going to be a corresponding white on your cable itself to show you where the halfway point is that halfway through running the cable, you can take a look and make sure that you're in the position you need to be in that you're not going to be running the cable too close or too far apart that you are actually following the smart plan. Precisely yeah, and people will go well. The cable I bought is like 10% less from a competitor. Well, the thing is, you get what you pay for. And the cable that we sell has that on it. At the halfway mark, the last time I checked, nobody else was doing that. And what that allows you to do is it allows you to know whether you're running long or if you're running short before you get to the very end of the room. So when you're laying this product out, the should align over here. If your our start points way over here. So if your is over here, you know that you've got the wire space too close together. If you're white, on the cable is over here, it tells you that you've probably used one extra space all the way across, and now you're going to have too much. It's better to know that halfway through the job than it is to find out, Oh boy, I've got to completely undo this entire room and start over again. So not only does our cable have the spot on it where the halfway mark is, it also has the number of feet mark actually on the cable itself, so you'll know how many feet are left because it counts down. So if you discern the difference between our cable and the competitor's cable, it helps you do a better install the first time. And that's why it's such a good product is the halfway mark. And also the footage mark every foot to let you know how many feet are left. Oh yeah, that coincides perfectly. I've got a 10 foot run. My cable says 10 feet left. Boom, I'm done. That's it. That's what that's why I say you get what you pay for. So you're going to get a quality product. And the thing about and I don't want to go too far in the rabbit hole here, but if you find out that you have too much or too little, you can actually increase the spacing. So instead of going 3 dots, you can go 4 to help you use that cable up throughout the room. Or if you're running where you have too much, you can go to 3, 2, 3 to 3 spacing instead of 22.214.171.124 three. And that'll help you use that cable up to you. Just want to make sure that they're the watch per square foot limits in your state allow you to go over 15 watts per square foot. In the old days, you can only do 15 watts per square foot max. Now, there's no limit in most states that changed in 2017 on the National Electric Code. So if your state allows unlimited watts per 4 square feet, you could do that 2 to 3 to whatever you wanted to do. Actually, two 3, 2 spacing is like 14.9 watts per square foot, so that's fine to do two. But also keep in mind that the Proedso has no r value, just like all those. And that you see out there has no r value, so it's not going to isolate the cable from the slab if you put it directly on a slab, if you're going to be putting this directly on a slab, you'd want to put a layer of Cerazorb down first and then the Prodeso on top of it to make that heat go upward. So that's what's so great about the process. So it lets you change as you go. You can make it closer or further apart wherever you are. Just remember, the closer the wires are, the warmer that spot's going to be because the more watts per square foot you have in that spot. So if you do two spacing on one half of the room and then you do three three, three or 4 for 4 on the other half of the room, this side where it's 2 inch spacing is going to be warmer than the side where it's 4 inch spacing. So also, what you want to keep in mind is when you're doing these types of jobs, is that a room on the second floor over a kitchen is that floor in that bathroom is going to probably start at 70 or 72 degrees as opposed to a room that's a bathroom on a crawlspace in the middle of Michigan. In the wintertime, that floor is going to be really cold, so you definitely want for the Michigan winters in the middle of winter. You want to have more watts per square foot on that uninsulated crawlspace than you would for a bathroom that's on the second floor above a kitchen because the floor is going to start, warm here and down there in that crawl space, it's going to start down here. So that's one thing you want to keep in mind also. Awesome, so then the smart plan with a cable with sleepers, so can you kind of describe, you know, what sleepers are? What are we looking at here? What's the application for something like? Those sleepers is a job where you're doing nail down wood, hardwood nailed down hardwood floors, and we have videos that show a job that I did locally here a couple of years ago that shows how that's done. If you're interested in heating hardwood floors, the first thing you have to do is ask the hardwood manufacturer is radiant heat allowed? Yes or no. And if they say yes, OK, cool, then what's the nail rate? Which means the nail rate is how many inches does the product have to be nailed down? Because that's going to determine the sleeper space. So if we look on this drawing here, you can see sleepers spaced at 12 inches. Some hardwood floors require eight inches, so that would tell us where these sleepers are. The sleepers are about an inch and a half wide, and there are 3/8 of an inch high. That 3/8 of an inch high is going to allow you to have something to nail in. And then what we're going to do is in the spaces between the sleepers, we're going to pour self leveling cement to the exact same height as the sleepers. So that way the floor is completely flat and there you can lay the wood down and nail into it. So that's what a nail down hardwood floor installation looks like. So you need to know, first of all, is allowed. Second of all, what's the nail rate? The third thing is, is there a maximum temperature allowed? A lot of times these types of floors have a maximum temperature of 85 or 82. Whatever the manufacturer says, so it's good. You'll need to know that because you'll need to set your thermostat for that. And the last thing is what temperature set back is allowed, which means if I heat it to 82 during the daytime, how far can I set it down when no one's going to be on the floor? Can I do? Can I go from 82 to 70 or can I only do three degrees per day, going from 82 to 70 nine? So there's your three degree difference. Or if they say, yeah, sure, you can go from 80 to down to 70, that's a 12 degree swing, so you need to find out what that set back temperature is. A lot of flooring say two to three degrees per day, which means you just set it and forget it. You set it to the temperature and you keep it there all wintertime. And that's a good thing about electric is electric. You can keep within a half a degree, hot water goes up and down, up and down. It overshoots and under shoots, overshoots and under shoots as the boilers kick on and kick off, and as the pumps kick in and kick off that temperature in a hardwood floor with hot water does this hot, hot, hot and then it gets cold and then it goes back up and down. So from 82 to 70 six, 83 to 70 four, it just does this all day long. Whereas electric keeps you right at the temperature all day long because we have a sensor that's put in right between the wire. So we know exactly how warm that floor is. So those are the questions ask is it allowed? I know this is the boring part, Lynn, but I just haven't had enough coffee today. Me neither. But we're going to keep it real. The thing is, you have to find out if it's allowed. What the nail rate is, what the maximum temperature is a setback allowed. So that's what you need to do. And you also need to tell us which way you want the wood to run. So if you have an adjacent room where the wood is running this way, we know the sleepers have to go this way to keep it running all the same direction. So we're going to ask you which direction do you want the wood to run? Obviously, we can see the wood here is running in this direction because the sleepers are the dotted lines. Awesome, so then we kind of touched on earlier. Heating your shower area. So this is kind of showing you how you would be laying out your timezone cable in a bathroom that also has shower heat. So as you can see on this drawing, it's a little hard to tell. The color isn't super great, but basically one of the cables is like a reddish and one is green, and this is obviously just for the drawing in real life. They're all going to be the same, but you're going to actually be able to see exactly where your shower heat will be, what the shower heat cable will be and what the bathroom heat will be. And the reason that generally we recommend putting two separate cables in or even having them both on separate thermostats is that showers can be notoriously tricky over time. Obviously, there's problems with water damage and things like that. Scott, can you kind of touch on that? I know you see that a lot as a TechSport. Well, actually, this is a job that I did the installation of in a waterproof bathroom, so we had no curb here. But the thing is, if somebody is putting the cable in and the plumber comes in and nicks the wire and damages the wire, or if somebody has to pump know somebody has to do work on the shower floor and they have to do a repair or whatever. And then the other five year later, the guy puts the drain in the wrong place or nicks the wire. If it gets damaged, then you can just turn the section off in the shower and the rest of the floor heats. If you do this all with one cable, if you Nick it anywhere, the whole, the whole thing is going to go down until you get it fixed. So that's why we suggest showers be on their own cable and sometimes on their own control because the shower floor along the edges can get thick. And if you're doing a mud job, you could have two or three inches of mud and then an inch of mud in the center where the drain is. And the thicker the application, it's going to take longer to heat while the rest of the floor in the bathroom is only going to be an inch thick at the most. So there's a difference. The different heating rate between heating this much or heating this much. So that's why a shower floor will usually take longer to heat because it's a much thicker application, depending on how it's made. Then the rest of the floor is so we always suggest two separate cables, two separate cables or mats, one for the shower, one for the rest of the room. And then it also might behoove you to get a control to control just the shower or just the shower bench independently from the rest of the floor. I see that especially people who have a guest bathroom or something, if you're not going to be using that shower every time you're in there, there's no reason to be paying to heat it if you're not going to be utilizing it. Exactly that's the good thing about electric heat is you can zone it and there's no need to turn it on when there's no one there. That's what's so great about basements and how the basement. If you have a basement that's used twice a year during Christmas and thanksgiving, there is no reason to heat it. The other 363. 362 days of the year doesn't make any sense. That's a good thing about power. Electric power is you don't have to heat that area, just turn it on when it's needed spare bedrooms, especially. So that's what's so great is to be able to zone that. Awesome and then last smart plan that we have for you is our environ, so it's very similar looking into the time zone, mainly because it's a very similar application, very similar installation. I should say where you're going to lay out the mats according to the drawing and cut and turn them again following the instructions laid out in that smart plan layout. That's what it looks like. It's the silver stuff. So that's the product that we're talking about right now. So if you take a look at this drawing, you can see there's like a big space around. The room was like, why in the world are you leaving all this area unheated? I think there's a problem with the drawing. Well, the thing is, in big spaces like this, like a big living room or a big dining room or large kitchen Large kitchen Large kitchen Large bedroom or whatever. No one ever stands right up against the wall, ok? No one stands against the wall. They walk around in the middle of the room, so there's no need to heat the perimeter because there's not going to be anybody there. The second reason why is if you're doing a stretch in carpet job a lot of times, obviously you're going to need to use a carpet stretcher. And the thing is, you want to have a perimeter here where there's no heat. So the carpet stretched to the teeth when it reaches into the carpet and then stretches it out and puts it down on the carpet strip. You want to give that carpet installer some room to get that stretcher in. Otherwise, if he's going to, if you're going to be putting the heat right up against the wall, he's going to go, whoop like this, he's going to cut right through the wire, then he's going to stretch it. And then two days later, when you want to turn it on, it doesn't work. So that's why two reasons why we do this big perimeter a foot, usually in most jobs, and that is no one stands there. So there's no need to heat it. And the second thing is you need to have a carpet stretcher stretch in that carpet. So moving on to something, we had kind of talked a little bit about our controls and how you're going to be utilizing them, obviously, like we had talked about, you know, potentially having a secondary control for a shower, zoning and things like that. So this is a really good chart. And if you're interested in seeing this closer up, we can always send you this information and obviously all of it's on our website as well. But it's a really handy chart to kind of look at our thermostats and pick the one that's going to work best for your system. So we do offer our most popular model is our inspire touch. We also have an inspired touch Wi-Fi that does have an app. So you can control it through your phone as well as on that touchscreen. And again, these are the most popular models. They're really sleek looking, incredibly user friendly. They're not going to have a lot of confusing buttons and things like that. It's like working on your phone. It's basically a little almost like a little phone that you'd put in your wall with that touchscreen. So it does make it really, really simple to program it and make sure that your system is going to be working with your schedule and your lifestyle. Now, if you have an enhanced or if you're interested in the enhance, this is going to be what you would want if you have that old. An old system that has the dial control was that called Scott the regulator or regulator? So if you have that one, that's a circle that the dial on it, the enhanced is going to be the best option for you. It's not as user friendly as the inspired touch is a little bit more tedious to set up. So we don't usually recommend it as just your first thermostat. But if you're looking to get a better thermostat or replace the thermostat for an old system, the enhanced would be a really, really great option for that. And finally, our entrust is our a non programmable model. So this is really great for seasonal spaces and/or rooms where you have, you know, you don't want a lot of change in the temperature. So where you have a hardwood, we kind of talked about that earlier. You don't want, you know, big swings in temperature differences. So this is going to be a really nice kind of set it and forget it. It's not going to be turning the system on and off. You're really just going to be able to set the temperature you want and it's going to be running at that all the time. Yeah, it's kind of funny, the most expensive floors require the least expensive control. And that's the interest because you set it to a temperature and you leave it there forever. The one thing about the Wi-Fi units is they do work with Alexa now and they do work with Google Home. So those are a couple of great additions to the Wi-Fi product there. But really? The touch screen units are so much easier to use if you don't have one yet, you don't know how easy they are. If you have one of the thermostats that we sold for 15 years, the 1 1 five had the doors that open on the front. If you're going from that unit to this unit, it'll be like night and day. It's so much easier because I've been here for a long time. We used to take calls. Most of our calls in wintertime was how do I program my pH one five, the one with the doors and there's 30 minutes of programming now. We don't even have programming calls at all because it's so easy to do with the touch units. It's simply touch this. What? what temperature do you want it to be? Touch this and what temperature do you want it to be? You can make the morning weren't warming temperature 82 and the night 81. So in the old days, it was like, what's your comfort temperature? 80 two? OK, that's what it is. But now it's like, I can make it 87 or 81 at different times of the day. So it's really, really like night and day with these, with these controls and. Uh, we had a question. Let's see which one that was in here. Oh, where is the thermostat? Yes, very good, thank you. The thermostat placement, is there a good way to hide or tuck away the thermostat? Well, first of all, you have to talk to your local code expert because local the National Electrical Code requires the thermostat or some other device with a switch to be able to turn it off in the space that's being used, which means you can't just put one thermostat in the middle of your house and then run the heating system in 10 different rooms. First of all, it may not comply with code. And second, that's about the worst way to run electric, radiant heat. When people just think that we're trying to sell them extra thermostats when really we're not because we talked about rooms, you only use a couple of times a year. Rooms, instead of heating the whole house like a normal HVAC system would be where you, you turn it on to 80 and the whole house needs to heat up to 80. Hear what you do is, you put it, the thermostat in the space you want to heat. So it controls just that space. And then the other spaces can be off. So if you know you're only use your living room at night, there's no need to heat it all day. Simply turn it on, put the thermostat in the living room. And the thing is one other example, and I hate to belabor this point, but this is something we get asked all the time. Otherwise I wouldn't bring it up. But somebody wants to do a central thermostat in their upstairs. Well, they got electric floor heating in the big room, in the great room, which is full of Windows and skylights, and it's got 20 foot ceilings. And they also wanted to use it to control the bathroom, which is a 3 by 3/2 bath. Well, the 3 by 3/2 bath is going to get much, much warmer than the room that's got 20 feet, ceilings and skylights and all windows. So those two different types of rooms should not be on the same control because the little room is always going to be really hot and the big room is going to be comfortable if you put the control in the bathroom. The bathroom is always going to be comfortable and the big room is always going to be cold. So that's why you want to put the thermostat where it is. It doesn't make any sense to do it otherwise, and it may be cold required, so you want to check out that. But that was a great, great question. Fiona, thank you for sending that question over. Absolutely And then last point about our thermostats. Not only do we have the regular black and white for the InspirED touch and inspire touch wi-fi, we do offer radiant crystal options now as well. So if you'd like your thermostat to match your decor a little bit more, if you want something more unique, this is going to be a really great option for you. And I know I personally love the golden shadow. think it looks really cool. Each their own. Well, let's look the color of like most of my house, so I think it would fit very well. So moving on to our instant quote system and kind of talking about our website in general. So if you are on our website, which is, of course, warmly yours, there are a lot of really good tools on there to help you begin planning your system to help you get an idea of what you're going to be looking at. So our instant quote is often the first place to go. This is going to ask for some pretty basic information on your system or on the room. You're looking at heating. It'll ask for square footage, the type of subfloor, the type of flooring and other information like that. And from there, it's going to give you different options to build your system from scratch. you'll start by choosing your heating system, choosing your thermostat, adding any extras and things like that. And this can be a really good way to if you have a very simple room, maybe you just have a perfectly rectangular great room that you just want to heat the entire thing and you just want really, really basic. Then this might be enough to get you the products that you need. However, if you have a little bit more of a detailed system or like we kind of talked about a circular shaped room or something like that, it doesn't hurt to. This can be a really good tool for budgeting to kind of have an idea of what you'll be looking at. But we always recommend even for square rooms and things like that, reaching out to us getting that complimentary layout plan so that you can really see exactly what systems you need and exactly how they'll be laid out so that you can go into that job with confidence. Yeah, about 900 years ago, when I was in college, I worked at a delicatessen and you have to do things to be able to get through school, obviously. But in that delicatessen it was what kind of sandwich do you want? What kind of bread do you want? What kind of meat do you want? And we're going to ask you the same question. What's your subfloor and what's your flooring? Because we need to make the sandwich correct. We need to make sure that you get the product that's correct in between those two things. So if you say concrete slab, I know Cerazorb first and then we start building from there. But this is where we're always going to ask you, what's your subfloor and what's your flooring that you're going to be using? That's going to determine what product we're going to use. And I love this slide because it shows that there are multiple ways to heat this space going from $940 to $580 still achieving heat in that space, and you can see there's the cable with the strips. You don't have to buy the Prodeso membrane unless it's needed. If you have water that's bouncy that you want to make sure that your Grout lines, your tile don't crack, then you definitely want to get the membrane. But if you're using if your floor is rock solid, you got 6 inch on center spacing under your bathroom floor. don't need Prodeso, so you can go from whatever that is down to 580 just by eliminating that layer. So we're not going to, you know, we're here to make sure that you get the product you want because we want customers to be happy, not us to get a sale. We're happy to help you out, whatever it is there. But obviously, if you're on a budget, then you can see the differences of what's involved in your floor. We have multiple ways to heat that area, and it's not all, just one. You know, when, when, when you have a hammer, all you can do is do repairs with the hammer. So that's what we try not to do. We try to have multiple ways to do that. And one of the ways is not only tell us what the product is, but to use this tool. Yeah, this is a really great one again on our website, so you can actually design or draw up your room with all of the information on there that we would need and then you can get a quote or a smart plan from there. So if you don't have a really good drawing of the space, you're looking at heating, you can use our design tool. So you're going to be able to put in where furniture is located. You can put in dimensions and shapes and everything like that so that you can just send that directly to us and we can get that smart plan going for you. And the thing is, you need to remember that you don't heat under permanent fixtures. So if there's going to be a bookcase that's going to be sitting on the floor and is going to be in that corner is going to be there forever. You don't heat under it. Also, you don't heat under cabinets because you can. It's not allowed by code. And so those are the things that you're going to be watching out for is don't put heat where it's not. Don't let's see how I'm going to use a double negative here. Don't put heat where it's not allowed that work out, right? Yes and also don't put heat where it's not going to be felt. There's no reason to put it under the bookshelf. First of all, it's not allowed. second of all, no one's ever going to be there. So those are the type of things that you want to watch out for when you're doing your installation. Perfect, so the heat loss calculator is another really, really great resource. Scott had touched on it briefly. If you have a room that has, you know, maybe 20 foot tall ceilings and skylights and it's all exterior walls and there's lots and lots of Windows. That room is going to be losing a lot of heat through a lot of different places versus a room. Like you had said. I think a bathroom over a kitchen that's going to have, you know, a lot of heat rising up in it. Maybe there's only one window and most of the walls are interior walls that's going to hold a lot more heat in that space over time. So if you are interested in learning, you know, can this be a primary heat source, which is a question I'd say we get a couple of times a day, if not more. It usually can. The answer, I like to say, is generally Yes. But let's take a look at your specific room before we know for sure. The last thing you want is to spend all that money. And time, putting a heating system in a radiant heating system and only to find out that you're losing most of that heat through your skylight or through your windows. So this is going to ask for some information on again, the room, the type of walls, windows installation is going to ask you what the subfloor is. All that really good information that's going to tell us from there how much heat you'll be losing or how much heat you'll be retaining in that space. And we'll be able to tell you if this will be a primary heat source for you or if you would need a secondary heat source as well. So, yeah, we had a couple of questions. How much power is needed per square foot that was supplied to us earlier and obviously on a concrete slab where it's 12 degrees outside, you're going to need as many watts per square foot as you are allowed by the state rules. And if you are over a heated space, a kitchen below you and you're on the second floor in a bathroom that has no windows or skylights, then you're going to be using one of our lesser Watt per square foot outputs, which would be with cable spaced a little bit wider. So we started round 15. That's an industry norm is around 15 watts per square foot because that used to be the rule and we were always right at the cutting edge of that. We wanted to make sure we got as much heat into the space as we could. So we like to I like to make things as graphic and easy to remember as possible, and I like to think of these heat loss monsters that rest in your bathroom. And the only reason I bring it up this way is because I've gotten two doses of installations. I'm the guy that people call, so I'm not getting as much heat as I thought I was going to get or my floor I don't think is working correctly. Well, this one person called and said my bathroom. I asked it to get 84 degrees and it's only getting to 80 to every day. 80 two, 80 two, 82. I want you to come over and look at it. So I go over to the house and I go, OK, well, can you show me where the bathroom is? So we walk through the master bedroom, we go into the bathroom. And as soon as I walk in there, the ceilings are 20 foot ceilings. It's three sides of the room, our exterior walls, and they're all exterior walls with two or three windows per exterior wall. Then I look around and this is obviously a really nice bathroom. There is a fireplace over in the corner and there's two or three skylights in the roof skylights, fire, fire, fireplaces, exterior walls, exterior walls with Windows. Those are all monsters. They are all eating up all the heat that the system can provide. So the system was providing heat. But the thing is, all of these monsters were taking the heat away from the space. So that's the problem. Even though the even though we're trying to heat the floor, all these. Ways to get the heat to get out of that room caused the floor to never get to where they really wanted to get it. So that's just I. It may be boring for some, but that's kind of like a real world story that I can share with you that shows you the impact of walls, ceiling height, windows, fireplaces, all those monsters that eat up, all that heat. How they can affect the space that you're trying to heat. Very, very important to keep that in mind. So we doing this heat loss calculator, how many BTUs that space is going to need, then we can say, well, we have enough BTUs. Yes, it'll probably work, or there's just not enough BTUs to heat this space. It'll act as a secondary source of heat, or it will just warm your floor so you have a warm floor when you step out of the shower. And then last but not least, we're talking about on again on our website, our operating cost calculator, so similar to the quote builder, you're going to be asked some information, some basic information on this, what kind of system you're looking at, cottage, that kind of building that sandwich with this is going to ask for the heating system that you're looking at. What size room and then your energy rate. So if you know yours off the top of your head, awesome, you're doing better than I am. Or you can enter in your zip or postal code or use your location. And from there, we'll be able to tell you pretty precisely what this is going to cost you per day. It is estimated. But generally speaking, if you're heating a room that is relatively, you know, a normal size, maybe a little home office with maybe eight hours of heat, you're often looking at just maybe 20 to $0.25 a day. It varies pretty greatly, obviously, depending on where you're located, but it's not. There's a pretty common misconception that these are very, very costly to run, and that really couldn't be further from the truth. And if you get a smart plan from us, I mean, this is relating to the question that Judy sent us in advance is how much does it cost to operate? It's right on the installation plan when we send it to you. It tells you right at the bottom. When we look at those smart plans, right at the bottom, says operating cost. So we also tell you how many BTUs it makes. I mean, you're going to be getting a lot of stuff in that smart plan. So you may think we're just saying this to make you get one. Well, the thing is, when you get one, you'll know exactly what it's going to cost to operate that sort of thing. And if you're just doing like a sizing type thing or I'm interested in getting operating costs, you just go to the website and you can play around. The cool thing about that is you can change the slider there to go for. It's going to heat for eight hours. I'm going to heat it for 12 hours and heat it for this much. It will then show you the different amounts of cost that's going to be related to those changes. So it's really a fantastic tool. So I can't tell you that strongly enough and hopefully that answered the question we were submitted to. And then talking about the actual installation process, you want to have some tools on hand so that you are doing the installation correctly and that you're not going to end up with some kind of faulty system down the road. So the first thing you want to make sure that you have is a digital o meter. And Scott, I know you have a lot of thoughts on these and you kind of tell us what you're looking for. Yeah, when you're installing a floor, you are going to need to buy these. They're not optional because part of the installation is that you do the readings on the flooring. I can't tell you the number of times that I've talked to people and I go, my floor isn't working. I say, well, what? What readings did you get before you installed the product? I didn't use. I didn't measure anything. OK, well, what did you get after you were done installing? What were your home's readings? I didn't write those down, so now I have to try to troubleshoot a floor that I have no, no baseline to operate from that floor. The driver that delivered it may have, may have, you know, run over it and damage the wire before you even got to the point of installing it. And the only way you're going to know is with a digital o meter. The thing is, don't go out and buy a 400 meter. The meter you want to buy is $19. It has a knob on the front that allows you to choose the different ranges of ohms. And that's the one that's the upside down horseshoe sitting there on the front of this green and you want to pick one that lets you choose the different ranges 204,200. You want to be able to choose that because an auto range meter is always going to be going high, low, high, low. Can I find these numbers high, low, high and it just keeps doing that over and over and over again. Get a digital meter, very inexpensive 19 or $20 at any big box store and you want a circuit check. Because circuit checks are worked, are working while you're not able to test. So a perfect example of when you get this product, if you are a store owner and you get the product, that's the store. Test it the day you get it, make sure that it's good because if your installation is coming up in two weeks, you want to be able to get a replacement right away. So we won't know that anything's wrong with it until you measure it. So that's why you need to measure it the day you get it, then if it's a-ok, you take it, you give it to the installer or the installer goes out to the job, measures it to make sure his meter is working. His or her meter is working correctly, that it matches what you got back at the store. And then also, that's your baseline. You now know what the OEMs are eating. Every mat has different homes. They're not all the same. So when somebody, it's very, very important to write those numbers down. So once you get the owner's ratings and you can say, OK, OEMs are good, we can now lay it out on the floor. So we lay it out on the floor, cuts and turns the mesh. We never, ever cut the cable. We lay it out, and once we lay it out, then we measure it again with the digital own meter. But that time that we were laying it out back and forth, I can't keep my fingers on the meter. I can't keep measuring. I have to have somebody else doing that. Well, the thing that does that is the circuit check. So what you do is you do your first test. You then put the circuit, check on the heating product. You lay the product out if you don't get any alarms or sirens. You then test it. Everything's good. OK, I want to test it before I start putting tile over. The last thing I want to do is damage this wire and then put tile on top of it. So we take the meter, we disconnect the circuit, check we, we measure it again. Everything's good. I put the circuit, check back on again and then I start installing the tile, putting the thinset in the tile over it. Then at the end, I take the circuit check off and then I measure it for ohms again and I take that number and I write it in the installation manual that's required. So these things are not optional, especially the meter. The meter is something that you're going to need, and the circuit check is going to help you. Because if you don't ask me how I know this, but if you're getting ready to put thinset down on the tile and you take the thinset out of the bucket and you clear your, you're hitting your. Well, now I can't even remember the word I'm I don't know what you're going to trial. Now you're wearing your trowel. It's like I've got 10 different things going on in my head, none of them important. But I take the trial and I hit it on the floor. I've come very close to hitting that wire, even though I know I'm there putting the flooring in over a wire. I still clear it out of a matter of habit. So fortunately, I didn't hit the cable, but if I did, that alarm would have screamed at me and said, whatever you just did is caused a problem. OK, that circuit check is keeping track to make sure we have a circuit between the two wires inside. Inside each one of these cables, there's three wires to that heat up and one that's aground. So what the circuit tech is doing is it's always making sure that those wires have a circuit that heat up. If they don't have a circuit, there's no heat. So it's always measuring circuit there. And it's also measuring to make sure that there is no ground, which means a short from the ground to one of those current carrying wires. So these two tools, if you use them, are going to cut down your problems during installation exponentially. If you just follow this simple rule, you will have problems. Problem free installations. The way I always see it is to get a circuit check and to get an O meter, you're going to be spending what, maybe 30 bucks total. That's pretty cheap insurance to make sure that the expensive system you're putting in is going to be working once it's in. Exactly and then last but not least, our troubleshooting kits are another really, really great tool that we have available to you. So these are here to troubleshoot any damaged floor heating systems that have already been installed. So maybe this is something for heating system that you didn't use a circuit check for and there was damage to the wire or over time, something seems to have happened. The floors and heating. This is going to help you not have to tear up the entire floor or replace the entire system. You'll be able to more or less pinpoint where the problem is coming from and fix that specific area. So you want to make sure that a certified electrician is there on site is using these tools to help find the areas that need to be fixed. And I know Scott, you work with these a lot more than I do. Do you have anything important to keep in mind for these? Well, we've come a long way. I can tell you the first floors I went out to repair over a decade ago. We had this film that you would put down on the floor and you would start zapping the wire and you would move this film around every square foot to try to find out where the heat was. It was temperature sensitive film, the same sort of stuff that if you have an aquarium, it's the thing that changes. Colors from 68 to 70 goes from red to orange to whatever. This was just black and white. It was. It would be like gray for a hot area, dark black for a not hot area. So we've come a long way now. We zapped the floor. We've got a thermal camera. The first thermal camera that we bought was about 5,000 years and years and years ago. Now you can get one for your cell phone for $100. I mean, it's completely crazy how things have changed. So these tools, we use them to create a to fix a problem with the problem floor. You either have a short that's causing a problem or you have an open circuit. If you have a short, you use this contraption over here, this big red coil that's called a variant. And what you do is if you have a short, you use this very act because you plug it into 120 volt outlet and then you turn it up slowly and the part you attach one of the wires to the ground and one of the wires to the wire that has a short in it. And then what you're doing is you have a circuit now between one of the load carrying wires and the ground. And what it'll do is it'll heat up until it gets to that spot. And where that spot is, you'll see it with a thermal camera and where that spot is, is where you're short is. So if you have a short, that's a very thing, easy thing to find. If you don't have a short, if you have an open circuit, then what you do is you use this high pot, which generates thousands of volts and you make a spark jump between those two wires that have lost their connection. And what that does is it creates a hot spot where those are and you'll hear it go thump, thump, thump, thump, thump, thump. And what that will do is it'll create a hot spot and then you use your camera to see where that hot spot is and that's where your open circuit is. So these tools are very, very valuable. To do that, you can fix just about anything. I've repaired driveways, I've repaired concrete walkways, I've done floors where they used a very sharp blade to cut into the Grout lines to clean them. Very bad move there. That Ford needed about 10 repairs because they cleaned every single Grout line with a very sharp blade. Don't use sharp blades to clear your Grout lines over electric floor heat now, because these things are very, very high voltage, these are for licensed electricians to use. These are not something that you're going to go out and go, I'm going to go get one of those things and put 2,500 volts in the floor and then touch the wire and go, oops, I shouldn't have done that. And then there's troubles. So one of the number one problems we have with people that aren't familiar with electric floor heat is, Oh jeez, if something happens to this floor, I have to rip the entire floor up and I'm going to have to replace my entire floor. That's not true. People that tell you that are not telling you the truth. We use these parts to find out where that bad spot is, and then we lift up one tile or two tiles, whatever it takes to make that repair. And then you only have to put those two tiles back down. You're not ripping up the entire floor if your electric floor heating gets damaged. So that's one thing I'm glad if you're even still listening, I'm glad you're here for that part because when people tell you that they have to rip up the whole floor, they're probably not telling you the full story. So good, good. I'm glad this slide is in here. Yeah, it's a really good one. So what makes warmly yours special, I know that we have given you a lot of information and we didn't talk an awful lot about warmly yours as a company or as an entity. So we have a lot of really great parts of our company that really set us apart from other heating companies, other heating products. So we offer no restocking fees. If you ever have to return something, we're not going to make you pay to send or to put that back so you can order knowing that we have your back there. We also offer 24/7 tech support, of which Scott is one of our members. You can call day or night any time, and you will have someone right there ready to help you with any kind of questions. Troubleshooting concerns, anything like that. We are there for you. Again, just to jump in here real quickly and as if I haven't talked enough already, but we've been around a long time. We've been selling electric floor heat for a long time, so we have a lot of experience. So we are pretty much we have a lot of videos on YouTube and we are spending a lot of time this winter, in particular supporting other companies flooring because they either don't have a wrap around that can do this work or they don't have the repair tools or they just want to know how to program the thermostat. And no one else is answering their phone at 10 o'clock at night. So we do support the entire industry and we're happy to do that because we are the experts here. We've been doing this a long, long time. We've seen just about everything you can see when it comes to floor heating. So that's why we're here. So that's what it's all about. And the one thing about the no nonsense warranty we have, I'm the head of the tech support department, so I talk to people all the time. And a of people I talked to her are sometimes happy and sometimes they're unhappy. But that's just the way it is. We're our job is to get the floor working. OK, so we want to get your floor warm again. That's why we're here. We want you to have a warm floor and we want it to work. The thing is, our warranty is the best warranty in the business. I don't lose any sleep at night going, oh, I really should have covered that weren't here or I shouldn't have. We have the best warranty in the business, and that is if it's a problem with the product that we made and it's a problem, it's a defect in the manufacturing or there's a problem with that particular product that we're responsible for. We're going to pay the cost of fixing it. We pay the people to come out and repair it. We pay for the replacement product. We'll pay for your tile, we'll pay for your trim people to come out and put the trim down. We'll pay for the painters, whatever you have to be, whatever has to happen, we will pay that if our product has failed because it wasn't made correctly or the right way. But when you're doing an installation and you take your trial and you drop it on the floor and it cuts the wire in half, that's not a manufacturing defect. That's not a warranty claim, that's installation damage. So there is a difference between the two and it as long as we clarify if it's something that we didn't make correctly or we made it and we made it wrong, or it intermittently works because of something we didn't crimp it together, right? That's our responsibility, and we will take care of it. So that's why we pay. If you have to replace the whole floor, we replace all the tile, not just the one tile that's above the one foot of cable. Look at the warranties out there from other companies. They will pay for that one tile and they'll pay for that one piece of wire to do the repair. And that's it. Then they won't pay the labor. We don't do that. We have the best warranty in the business if it's our fault. So it's very, very important to let people know that that's what you get when you come to warmly yours. Absolutely yeah, when we say no nonsense, we really mean that we're not going to give you the runaround. We stand by these products completely. And another really great thing about us is that we're one of the first or the first to provide an online tool for project planning. We kind of talked about that already all of our different online tools. So you can really begin planning your project and getting an idea of what you're looking at just by visiting our website for a brief period of time. We also offer dedicated account management, so you will once you reach out to us, whether you're a trade professional or a homeowner or a buying group, anybody, no matter how big or small your project is, you're going to have an account manager that's going to be dedicated to you and to your project to answer any questions, to get your quotes, to get your plans, your layouts over to you, they will be there for you 100% And we also offer, like we said, more or less 24 hour turnaround on floor plans. So occasionally, if it's a really, really large system or if it's a holiday, something like that, we aren't able to get it around that quickly. But almost always we're able to get it to you by the next business day. So once you ask for that, we'll get that to you as soon as we possibly can. Very good. So we did get some questions ahead of time, and I know you answered quite a few of them already, but I think we should touch on the ones that we haven't gotten to yet. So do you want to go ahead and start off with those, scott? Yeah the first question is, how do I heat an existing tile floor? There's really not much you can do with an existing tile floor that's already installed, except you can. There are products out there that do go underneath the floor between the floor joists. We're very familiar with those type of products. We've installed them, we've tested them. And we weren't happy with the way they performed because they're below the floor. So we have always been heating an inch or so above the floor. Now you have to heat another 3/4 of an inch or another inch and underneath the floor. Then you have that heat another couple inches below that. Now, all of a sudden you get a heater that's five or six inches away from the flooring. So that is in theory, it's a great idea. We were interested in supplying that. We've installed it before. We just didn't like the way that it went in. And also, if you have anything in the floor joists like air vents or pipes or anything like that won't let you put the heat in there, now you're going to have a floor that's warm here. This floor, Joyce is going to be cold and this floor is going to be warm over here. It's really, really spotty coverage. So that's why we've never done that. But there are products out there that will let you different. Results depend on the amount of stuff that's under your floor and whether they can get at it. So there are things out there that you can check that out and you're more than welcome to. We've tried them. We weren't very impressed with them. Absolutely And the next question comes from Edward saying, we have issues with Vincent mortar bonding to the stairs or underlayment. I've gone out and looked at dozens of these floors and even we went one time with a manufacturer of thin set, and they simply said this wasn't mixed correctly. The Sears orb is very porous, thinset. You should take you should watch a video on thinset on YouTube. It's really interesting, but then set once it's mixed up. And once it is in a certain point of time, it starts to grow tentacles that grow into the tile and grow into the sarazen. Well, the thing is, those have to grow into them. The thing is, if you put the Cerazorb down too late, those tentacles are already out there and you're just trying to push Cerazorb onto the tentacles and you're breaking them. There is no connection because it's been sitting there too long. That's part of the problem. If you mix it too wet, if you mix it too dry, if it's been in the pot too long. There's a lot of things that can go on within said, when you're doing an asset installation, you need to make sure you mix it exactly as it shows on the bag and you have to use it up in the amount of time that it tells you to use it up, because if you don't, it won't adhere to anything self-absorbed or not. If you do the service orb installation, what you do as part of the instructions is use the correct size trowel. Put it down, put the thin, set down, push the surge or down into it, push it in, then use a roller over the top of it, then pull it back a little bit. Make sure you have adhesion. If you don't, your thin sets not mix correctly, so I can only go by. I've talked with inset manufacturers and I've said, hey, what caused this to happen, not mix correctly or sat around too long? So that's what you're going to run into. Those are the only times I've ever seen serves or not adhere. Yeah, there's not very much wiggle room for things that. And people need to keep that in mind when you're planning out your project. Also, one thing that's very, very important. I'm so glad this question was asked is never, ever used pre-mixed thinset. That stuff is designed to never dry out. That's why they put it in pails. They put it in pails, and they don't want it to dry out until you get it. Well, the problem is when you install it, it never dries out. Either it stays this congealed mess, which is not good for electric floor heating, so make sure that you're using thinset that you mix up, not the pre-mixed stuff in the tub. Perfect question. Thank you for asking that, Edward. Yeah, great information. So our next question is my proposed application is for wood flooring in a motor home with subfloor that is 3/4 inch plywood. They will be replacing the original flooring with engineered hardwood and will have both 120 and 240 volts available. So something like that, what would they be looking at, scott? Well, I'd probably have to get in the RV with them and take a couple of trips back and forth across the United States just to make sure that I understood what they needed, especially when they would go into specific national parks that I want to go to. But you should be paid for that too as well. Normally, you should be paying for you. Yeah, but the thing is, what you want to do is you want to use something since, he said, engineered hardwood. We would want that to be floating because then you can use the environment system because the environment doesn't use thin set, thinset and a moving vehicle like that tends to lead to cracked Grout lines and cracked tiles. You don't, you don't. You don't want. You want to stay away from thinset and self leveling as much as you can. So the product you want to use as environ because it goes, it doesn't glue to anything and nothing glues to it. It allows the subfloor and the flooring to move at different rates as the unit flexes, as it goes over bumps or whatever. So that's where you're going to want to use the environment. Send us a drawing of the space you want to heat and then we'll use the environment cut in turn product to fit into that space. And that way you get really good coverage of a floating floor and you don't have to worry about thinset cracking or self leveling cracking. Awesome so, Ah, what's the next question I lost my oh, one thing before we leave that because he mentioned 120 and 240, you know, what I ate is, I mean, just like is when people say I want to use 240 volt because it's more efficient than one 20. It's not the case, 120 and 240 are the same efficiency if you're only eating 16 square feet. You don't need 240 to do it because when you're using 240, you're using two breaker places instead of one. And there's no need to put 240 in that floor unless you're going over 120 square feet. Because our thermostats switch 15 amps and 15 amps at 15 watts per square feet is about 120 square feet of area. So most bathrooms you can do in one 20 except if you have a big bathroom, then you would want to go to 2,4 D because that allows you to still use one control, but heat up to 240 square feet. So that's the only benefit of 240 over one 20. Otherwise, they heat exactly the same. Yes, that's a great point. It's a common misconception. I hear a lot. How do I compare the benefits of electric and hot water? Radiant heat? Well, electric you can install in a much thinner subfloor, so you don't have to worry about different floor heights from one room to the other. So these wires are only an 1/8 of an inch thick as opposed to an x tube, which could be 3/8 of an inch, or whatever that particular one is. Plus, you don't have to buy a boiler, plus you don't have to buy manifolds. Plus you don't have to buy all the pumps and all that other stuff that need maintenance. Electric floor heating is maintenance free. There's no checking the there's no inspection going on to make sure the pumps are working correctly or the boiler is coming on at the right temperature or any of that stuff. So if you don't have a boiler, there's no reason to get hot water to begin with. So I hope that benefit being much, much easier to install because you're raising the floor height very, very little, and it's usually much easier to pull a circuit to that bathroom or whatever room you're trying to do, as opposed to now running PEX tubing from a boiler that you may or may not have over to the other side of the house. So that's one of the benefits, and it's a much faster install, too. Absolutely the next question we have is heating floors underneath vinyl. What areas, vertical applications and exterior heating? What locations are our temps home product? Is what location listed, which means it can go in showers, means it can go in, you know, in any type of situation there. The under vinyl requires a flat surface to be installed over, so that would be our temp Sony product installed over, I mean, under a layer of self leveling. So you have a nice flat floor. We have a perfect video that shows how that installation is done. If you're interested, just drop us a line and we'll send you a link to that video that shows you how to install LBGTQ because we get those questions every single day about LRV because it's so popular right now. Moving on to the next thing vertical applications, the National Electric Company does not allow electric heating cables in walls, so your local code may your local code has. It has the ruling over the National code, but the National code prohibits using electric floor heating cable or any type of electric heating cable in a wall. So hopefully that answers your question. And it's very, very difficult to heat exterior because exterior heating applications are 100% heat loss, you try to warm your pavers and that heat that the pavers generates goes right into the air and disappears. So it's an application that not many people do, and even fewer people have done it successfully. So exterior heating. The thing is, our snow melting product is designed to melt snow and it has to be used outdoors. It cannot be used inside. Our electric floor heating product, which is designed to heat floors, is not allowed to be used outdoors. So there is the rub. So it's very, very difficult to use a product that's designed for melting snow to making it a comfortable feeling because snow melt controls are on or they're off. There's no ifs, ands, or buts. When it's off, it's cold and when it's on, it's warm, but there's no way to regulate that. So hopefully that answered Chris's question. Awesome the next question we have is from Diane. Do you recommend electrical radiant heat in concrete floors, given how difficult it would be to both find the issue and then repair or replace the system? Well, we know that we'd rather have you install it on top of the concrete slab, if you can. So if you're using floor covering over the slab, then that's where you'd want to install it. You'd want to install it directly under the floor, covering and above the slab if you're doing heating in a slab. We've done those repairs all the time, people. The problem with slab heating is people like to use rakes which have really sharp teeth on them. And those rates, if you hit them hard enough, can go into the wire. The wire is very, very resilient if you try to take a knife and try to cut it. It would be very resistance. However, if you take a shovel and you're going like this with a sharp edge on the shovel, you have a really good chance of damaging that wire. So that's what you just need to be careful of if you use your rake upside down. If you put a piece of masking tape or duct tape on the lip of that shovel, it's going to make it much more dull like me. Then that's what you want to do, because then it shouldn't cut the cable. So those are the things you're going to look at ahead of time to mitigate any problems that can come by later. And if you do have a problem that you can't, that needs fixing, we can fix it. Yeah, absolutely. Our other next question is from Leah. Do you have any do you have a product for basements with carpet? And I think I can answer that one. Yes, absolutely we do. You just want to make sure that you're putting down your Cerazorb and then you are using environ for underneath carpet. And again, that's for the state's only. Canada currently does not allow under carpet heating. I've got a little bit better way to do that. You want to use instead of Sarah's or you want to use a high value carpet pad because then that way, that way you're using because a high volume, high value carpet pad, you can get those into the twos into the 3's of our value as opposed to the surge, or which is only 0.75. So my recommendation from Pete, from talking to people that do this is look for a good high value pad, lay the product on top of that, then a lower value carpet over the top of it. And that's how you're going to get the best results in the US. Awesome I always forget carpet pads, so thank you, Scott. Yeah, the next question is, can you send me any information on the product that gets installed under asphalt pavement, as well as the depth of asphalt needed for safe coverage without taking it away from the installed product? Well, this is a great question, and, you know, we talked to these installers all the time, and one of the popular things for asphalt people to do now is they want to do a single layer of 3 inches of asphalt and then compress it down. I can tell you that is a cheap way out. What we require and we require it because we want the system to last, is that you use a 2 inch binder coat over the top of your compressed gravel and your compressed finds and stuff like that. You're going to roller that down. You're going to put a base coat of asphalt down and then you're going to put the heating product directly on that first base coat of asphalt. And then you're going to come by with a second layer of asphalt that's going to be about an inch and a half, two inches thick over the top of it. The National Electric code requires that at least an inch and a half above the cable is there. It needs to be at least an inch and a half thick. So that's why we suggest that I've seen single pause where it goes from 3 inches down to mysteriously goes down to 2 and 1/2 or two after they roll it down and then you park your car on it. And then all of a sudden you start to see the asphalt start to go like this, like it's melting, especially if you have big cars or you have an RV or whatever. A friend of mine put in a 3 inch layer with an rv, and then by the end of the summer, there was a 4 inch hole under each wheel were to just like that. Well, the problem is the cables inside that and all of a sudden when the asphalt is falling apart, it's doing this and it's going to ruin the cable. That's why it has to be done between two layers of asphalt. First of all, to give you that strength and to get you the right height from the top, which is a national requirement of inch and a half, we suggest somewhere between two inches, right around two inches is the sweet spot there. So you have to mean you have to remember that. The cable is going to last a really, really long time, probably longer than your driveway. However, if your driveway starts to fall apart, that act of falling apart can stretch the cable and ruin it. So you want concrete is really good because it really doesn't fail very often if it's done right. So that's another reason why we do not do gravel driveways. We get this question all the time. Can I put gravel over the top of this heat and heat, a gravel driveway? And the answer to that is no, because gravel eventually wears away. And then eventually you're going to have cable that you're going to see from the top and that doesn't comply with the National Electric Code. And within one or two days of that, it's going to get a braided. It's going to get cut and it's going to fail. So hopefully that question led to a couple of good answers. I'm not sure. I think it did, in my opinion. And our last question is from Steve. Can I use low voltage to heat my driveway? I guess we don't sell low voltage solutions because we don't want transformers multiple transformers to have to be replaced. That's why we use 1 20 to 40 to a weight and 2.70 seven, depending on if you're a commercial or if you're at home. Because simply, that's the best way that we found to do it without charging you $600 for a transformer or $1,200 for two. Or it just it seems a bit unwieldy to add an extra thing that could possibly go wrong. You don't want to do that. You want to keep it as simple as possible. And that's what's so good about electric heating in a driveway. You don't have pumps, you don't have all this other stuff that needs to be maintained, pumps and pipe and boilers and all that other stuff. So we strongly suggest because we've had very, very good luck at it, is using a 120 to 40 to a weight or 2.77. Perfect and if there are no other questions, I'm not seeing any new ones from anybody watching currently. If you have any more questions, if anything comes up, feel free to type away. We'd be more than happy to continue answering questions. But in the meantime, we are going to tell you about next month's webinar. This will be February 10th again as the Thursday at 1:00, and this is going to be discussing planning your next radiant project using our quote building tool. So we're going to be going a little bit more in depth on that quote building tool on our website. And if you like these training videos, we do offer daily training sessions. Often they're hosted by me or Scott. These are usually at least once a day, often twice a day right here on crowd cast, and they're pretty short. Usually they're between 5 10 minutes. You can feel free to pop in and learn a little bit more about our products, about installation and ask any questions that you have, even if it's not related to that day's topic. We are currently offering 20% off of our environ easy mats again, those are the precise mats that are basically just a big blanket you can lay out on the subfloor. So that is going to be 20% off for the rest of the month. And you'll want to visit our website for more information on that. And we always love hearing your feedback, we'll send you an email right after or shortly after this is over. Asking about your experience. So we really appreciate your comments, suggestions as, of course, all your compliments, which I'm sure you'll be showering us with. And how can they get in contact with us, scott? Just about any old fashioned way by telephone, by email, you can check us out on the website. We're also all over social media, so check us out there. We've got a lot of examples of our installations. We have a bunch of stuff on YouTube. If you're interested on how to heat a driveway, the YouTube videos. The last time I looked our YouTube video about heating and asphalt driveway was, I think, at 1.8 million views or something like that. And any video with me in it that has more than one view is quite a victory. So that's a great, great testament to people looking for more information. We also have a bunch of videos on our website, too, that you can check that out, just go to warmly yours and hit the Explore button. And then there's videos about application. You know, how do you install nailed hardwood? I mean, all the stuff we talked about now, today we have great videos on it. It's great. The videos are great overviews, but they do not act as a substitute of reading your installation manual. So my last point today would be to tell everybody if you're interested in installing it or if you're going to install it, please read the installation manual because you're going to find yourself having a very, very trouble free installation. Yes, we want to make it as easy as possible for you, so that is all we have today. Thank you so much for joining us. I know that we threw a lot of information at you. So if you need any help, if you have any questions, just reach out. We are more than happy to chat with you about your project and until next time, as always, stay warm and be radiant. Thanks, everybody.