How to Keep Roofs, Driveways, and Pipes Safe During Winter with Snow Melt and Deicing

Wonderful. Awesome. All right. Well, thank you so much for joining us. My name is Lynn, and I am a customer service representative here at WarmlyYours. I am joined by our wonderful tech team member, Scott. Hello, everybody. Thanks for joining us. Thank you for being here. Today, we are going to cover a lot of tips and tricks for keeping roofs, driveways, and pipes safe during winter with our snow melting and de-icing products. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask us. We would be more than happy to answer any questions you have. If we don't get to them right away, we'll address them by the end of today's presentation.

Our outline for today includes a discussion of our snow melting systems, their applications, and general installation methods. We will also cover our roof and gutter de-icing systems and pipe freeze protection. Essentially, we will discuss anything that can be used to prevent snow or ice from accumulating. Obviously, nobody wants to look at this picture in August, but winter is approaching, and now is the time to consider heating the areas you want to keep snow-free.

Scott, can you provide an overview of each of these products and their uses? Well, first of all, when it's 95 degrees and humid, this is a refreshing photo. I don't mind seeing this at all. Fair enough. We've had enough of that hot weather. Today, we will talk about how to keep your pipes from freezing, how to ensure melting water from your roof flows down to the ground, and how to clear snow while evaporating the water for a dry surface. We will discuss various outdoor options as well as indoor solutions for pipe freeze protection to help you navigate winter without any catastrophic problems.

First, let's go over our snow melting systems, which are available in cable or mat forms. We can certainly assist you in determining the right system for your needs if you reach out to us. Generally speaking, Scott, can you explain which system is best for different types of pavement? The cable is available in spools, and you can purchase it pre-attached to a mesh product that is either two or three feet wide. This mesh product has the cable pre-spaced every three inches. If you're comfortable with a three-inch spacing yielding almost 50 watts per square foot, you simply roll out the product, attach it to your work surface, and cover it with asphalt or cement.

If you're working with asphalt, you will likely use the mats because they are faster to install. You can pre-cut them, lay them on the base coat of the asphalt, and then pave over them. This method is significantly quicker. The cable, on the other hand, allows you to attach it to various materials like rebar and concrete, and you can adjust the spacing as needed. You can choose between three-inch, three-and-a-half-inch, four-inch, or four-and-a-half-inch spacing. The wider the spacing, the fewer watts per square foot you will have, but you can cover a larger area. In warmer regions, four-inch spacing may suffice, while colder areas will require three-inch spacing.

The cable installation takes longer because you must physically tie it to the rebar or whatever you are attaching it to. However, the mesh product is primarily used for faster installations, as it is already attached and has holes large enough for concrete to flow through. If you need to adjust spacing or navigate curves, the cable is the better option.

We also offer various control options for your snow melting system, including automatic and manual controls. Can you explain the difference between the two? Manual controls typically assume you will be home to turn them on or off, or you can use a manual Wi-Fi app to control it. Many people prefer a manual timer because it prevents the system from running accidentally for extended periods, which could lead to a significant electric bill. The manual timer allows you to set a maximum time, ensuring it shuts off whether you remember to do it or not.

On the other hand, automatic controls, such as the zone breaker multi-zone system, allow you to set them up at the beginning of the year. Whenever it snows, the system will automatically activate and melt the snow without requiring manual intervention. If you're installing a new system for the first time, you may need some experimentation to determine the best parameters for your area. However, once you have that dialed in after the first one or two seasons, the system will efficiently melt snow without further thought.

The Zone Breaker system allows you to heat a larger area than you typically could. For example, if you have a driveway that requires 100 amps but only have a 30 or 40 amp breaker available, you can split the area into three zones. The system will alternate between zones, allowing you to heat a larger area without exceeding the available power. However, this method may take longer to melt snow, so if you can manage with two zones instead of three, that would be more efficient.

This is a great example of what a heated driveway can look like. It saves you time on shoveling and salting, and you won't have to worry about salt damaging vehicles or pets' paws. These systems are fully embedded, making them ideal for new driveways or when expanding existing ones. As Scott mentioned, one way to reduce power consumption is by using the zone breaker to divide the area into smaller sections. You can also choose between full coverage and tire track coverage. Scott, can you explain the difference?

Tire track coverage uses significantly less power. When someone calls about heating their driveway, they often provide a sketch and request a quote. Once they see the power requirements, they may realize they don't have enough available. It's crucial to check for space in your breaker panel before proceeding. If the panel is full, you may need to consult an electrician to combine circuits. By using tire track coverage, you can reduce power consumption by heating only the areas where tires will travel, which can cut the required power by more than half.

You can also heat a section extending 12 to 15 feet from the garage door, accommodating vehicles parked in front during winter. Knowing the square footage is essential for designing the system and determining the necessary amperage. We do have options for retrofitting existing driveways, particularly asphalt ones, so reach out if that interests you.

However, it's important to note that a retrofit requires a suitable base. If the existing driveway is old and crumbling, it won't support the cable properly. Ideally, you want a relatively new driveway that can accommodate the new cables and a fresh layer of pavement on top. Most of our automatic controls activate at around 38 degrees Fahrenheit or 3 degrees Celsius. Scott, can you explain how long the system will run once activated?

Run time differs from after run time. The run time is the duration of active snow falling or rain, while after run time refers to how long the system continues to operate after the event has ended. The system has sensors that detect snow or rain and temperature. If it is below 38 degrees and precipitation is detected, the system will turn on. Once the temperature rises above 39 degrees or the precipitation stops, the active event is over.

After that, the system transitions to after run time, which is crucial for melting and evaporating any residual water. If someone reports slush remaining on their driveway, it may be because the after run time is set too short. You need to allow enough time for the system to melt and evaporate any remaining moisture; otherwise, you risk creating an ice rink.

The snow melting system not only melts snow but also evaporates it, preventing refreezing and ice buildup. This feature enhances safety by eliminating black ice and compacted snow. If someone plows your driveway, they may leave behind compacted snow, which can build up over time. Our system effectively eliminates this issue, providing a dry surface to walk on.

For asphalt installations, we discussed various methods and retrofitting options. Scott, can you explain what we see in this installation? The image shows a driveway with a base coat applied using an asphalt paving machine. The rolls of cable are laid out for faster installation. If you had to tie the cable manually, the asphalt crew would likely leave due to delays. Therefore, using rolls is essential for efficiency.

The rolls are laid out partially to allow the dump truck to deposit asphalt over them. You should never use an asphalt paving machine directly over the cables. Once the asphalt is spread, it can be rolled over, but the paver should not touch the cables. This is a crucial point to remember during installation.

The cross-section demonstrates the proper layering: compacted gravel, a two-inch base coat of asphalt, the heating mat, and the finished asphalt layer. To comply with the National Electric Code, the cable must be at least one and a half inches below the surface. Therefore, two layers of asphalt are necessary to ensure proper installation.

The SmartPlan is a valuable tool we offer, allowing you to submit a drawing of the heated area for a detailed layout plan. Generally, we can return this plan within a business day. The plan includes essential information such as the installation plan number, breaker requirements, and total amperage for the job. This information is crucial for ensuring a successful installation.

For concrete installations, the cable should also be embedded two to three inches beneath the finished surface. We recommend using a rigid metal framework to secure the cables. One common mistake during installation is forgetting to use bricks or chairs to hold the rebar in place. The cables need to be positioned in the middle of the concrete pour to achieve optimal heating results.

The pre-attached cable to the rolls is designed for use with sub-3/4-inch aggregate, allowing concrete to flow through the mesh. If larger aggregate is used, it can prevent proper mixing and lead to uneven results. Therefore, it's essential to use the correct aggregate size during installation.

While we've primarily discussed driveways, our snow melting systems can also be used for patios, walkways, sidewalks, and even concrete benches. The installation process remains consistent across different applications. The cables should be zip-tied to the rebar to keep everything in place.

The SmartPlan for full coverage provides detailed guidance for installation, including the starting and ending points of the mats. The junction box location is also indicated to ensure all leads reach it without splicing in the concrete or asphalt. All connections should be made in the junction box to facilitate testing and maintenance.

Our product can also be installed under pavers, which surprises many installers. The heating product is placed in the bedding beneath the pavers, which can be set in sand or mortar. Mortar conducts heat better than sand, so it's preferable to use it when possible. However, the cables must be covered by at least one to one and a half inches of sand to prevent direct contact with the pavers.

The attachment grid is a newer product designed to simplify the installation of snow melt systems, particularly under pavers. This grid is strong in both directions and should be tacked down to maintain proper spacing. It's crucial to ensure that the cables do not overlap, as this can lead to overheating and failure.

Moving on to our roof and gutter de-icing systems, these products help prevent costly water damage and ice dams. There are two primary types of cables: constant wattage and self-regulating. Constant wattage cables cannot be cut or overlapped, while self-regulating cables can be cut to length and can overlap without risk of damage.

For effective installation, it's essential to place the heating cables in the gutters and downspouts to ensure melting snow can flow down to the ground. Knowing the roof overhang measurement is critical for determining how far the heating elements need to extend.

In the case of metal roofs, snow guards are necessary to prevent large snow loads from sliding down and damaging the heating cables. The installation should ensure that the cables are positioned to effectively melt snow and direct water into the gutters.

Lastly, our pipe freeze protection systems are designed to prevent frozen pipes during winter. Both self-regulating and constant wattage cables can be used, but self-regulating cables offer the advantage of being cut to length and overlapping without risk. The installation should ensure that the cables are positioned correctly along the pipes to provide optimal heating.

Thank you for joining us today. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. Our next webinar will focus on how electricians and flooring professionals collaborate on floor heating projects. We look forward to seeing you then. Stay warm and be radiant!