Commercial Installation of Snow Melt System for Heated Driveway

Hello and welcome to today's video. Today, we're going to be installing a snow melting product in the driveway of the Jane Society, just outside of Chicago. We will begin by removing part of the old asphalt, and later, we will lay heating cable on top of what remains before paving over it. We will show you what happens at each step, so make sure you stay tuned.

The first step in installing the heating system is to clear the old surface. Currently, we are skimming off the top layer of the existing asphalt to prepare for the installation that will take place later. Once this is done, we will move on to the next phase.

Now that we have removed the old pavement, the next step is to grade the remaining surface with stone and compact the gravel. This ensures that the surface is nice and flat to receive the first binder coat of asphalt. Additionally, we need to ensure that electricity can be supplied to the heating product. Behind us, you can see where a trench is being dug for the conduit that will carry power to the heating system.

As we wrap up our first day, we have successfully removed all the old asphalt and graded the surface. We are now ready for the asphalt truck to arrive first thing tomorrow morning, so stick around for the next update.

We are at the beginning of day two, where we are grading the surface and preparing to tamp it down. We will run rollers over the top to ensure it is ready for the first layer of asphalt. Once the surface is graded and compacted, it will be time for the binder coat to be applied. We have completed one run and have a few more to go.

With the binder coat down, we have laid our first two runs of the heating cable on top of it. Now, we are using a high boy to drop fresh asphalt onto the surface and shoveling it on by hand. After this, a roller will come down to compact the asphalt. Although the cables are now covered, we are still not up to the line of the curb. After completing this layer, we will come in with a finishing layer to match the height of the concrete and curb.

At the end of day two, we have successfully embedded the heating product in the layer of asphalt. All that remains is to complete the top layer, and then we will be finished. We will also show you the electric hookup at that point.

Now, we are preparing to install the cold leads into the junction boxes. The team is currently assembling the junction boxes, which will be placed in the dirt on the other side of the curb. This setup allows for all connections to be made within the box, and the power from the nearby source will be routed to this junction box for connection.

Next, we need to discuss the sensors involved in this installation. There are two sensors: one is an over-temperature sensor that monitors the temperature of the slab or asphalt pad. This sensor will be housed in a capped end of a rigid metal conduit, positioned between two of the heating wires. Additionally, we will install a temperature and snow precipitation sensor. Once the asphalt is laid to the correct height, we will remove the plastic cap and install this sensor into the box, routing both sensors through the conduit to the junction box.

As we prepare for the pavers to arrive for the top coat, I have run a fish tape to ensure that when the asphalt is installed up to the correct level, I can pull the wires for both sensors through the conduit. We are currently waiting for the asphalt to be completed before proceeding with the installation.

Now that the sensor is in the finished asphalt, we can see that it is at the exact height of the surface. We used a cap to cover the top of the sensor housing during installation, which is beneficial because it matches the thickness of the sensor itself. Once the sensor is in place, we will level it using the screw holes located at the top of the sensor. The internal box can move up and down, allowing for a flush finish with the asphalt surface.

To install the sensor, we need to tie it to a fish tape that has already been placed. This will allow us to send the sensor wire back to the junction box. We will have two sensors: one for the asphalt, which will activate when the temperature drops below a set point, and the other is the over-temperature sensor, which communicates with the controller to manage the slab's temperature.

We have successfully pulled the cable out of the junction box, where you can see two separate boxes: one for high voltage and one for low voltage. It is crucial never to run low voltage in the same box as high voltage. We will continue to pull the cable until we are ready to set the sensor.

The two sensors we are working with include the over-temperature sensor, which will be placed in a piece of conduit between two of the heating wires. I will go ahead and install that now. The threaded set screws will go over the adjustment screws, allowing us to ensure a flat surface. These set screws will provide contact with the height-adjusting screws, ensuring everything is properly aligned.

Next, I need to apply grease to the area that has been raised to make it flush. I will fill that area with grease and also go around the perimeter to prevent water from entering. This product is kneaded like dough, which helps seal the space and keep moisture out.

The mechanical part of the installation is now complete. We have successfully installed the sensor, the over-temperature sensor, and the heating mats, and the driveway is completely redone. We will discuss the electrical hookups shortly, so stay tuned.

Now, let's take a look at where the power comes from and where it needs to go. When wiring for this installation, it is important to calculate the distance from the power source to the installation site, as this will affect the voltage drop. We will make our high power and low voltage connections here, with two conduits running back to the power source.

In this installation, we have a breaker panel that includes 35 breakers. These are GFEP breakers, which may also be referred to as GFPE in some regions. They provide ground fault protection for equipment and are essential for any outdoor snow melting system. Each breaker has a 30 milliamp trip, ensuring safety and compliance with electrical standards.

Next, we will wire up the control panel, which is responsible for turning the entire system on or off. The low voltage connections will be made at the top of the panel. In this setup, we have the over-temperature sensor installed in the asphalt, which will connect here. Additionally, there is an aerial sensor located above, designed to monitor temperature and precipitation. The wires from both sensors will come through the conduit and connect in this panel.

All low voltage connections will be made here, while high power or line voltage connections will be handled separately. The controller primarily sends signals to the relay panels, which manage the actual power flow. It does not handle high voltage directly; instead, it activates a 120-volt feed to the relay panels, turning them on or off simultaneously.

The controller also allows for adjustments to the high temperature limit, which determines when the system will automatically shut off, as well as a hold-on timer that keeps the system running for a specified number of hours after snowfall. A good starting point for these settings is to place the knobs in the middle of their range.

Finally, we can see the relay panels, which consist of eight panels in total. Each panel corresponds to a product installed in the driveway, and each is a 12-pole relay. The controller sends a 120-volt signal to each relay, and when activated, all relays will turn on or off simultaneously based on the controller's signals.

That wraps up our installation, and this roadway can now remain snow and ice-free. For more information, visit us at www.warmlyyours.com. Thank you for watching.