Radiant Heat Done Right: Planning, Installing, and Troubleshooting for Pros

Thank you, everybody, for joining us. My name is Lynn, and I am a sales representative here at WarmlyYours. I am joined by Scott, one of our tech team members. Today, we're going to be discussing radiant heating done right. We'll cover planning, installation, and troubleshooting advice for our professionals. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. If we don't address them right away, we'll definitely answer them by the end of the presentation.

In today's webinar, we'll discuss some planning tips for a successful installation, ensuring that you approach the installation with a clear understanding of what needs to be done. We'll also go over installation best practices, common issues, and troubleshooting tips. At the end, we'll have a question-and-answer session, along with some housekeeping details. Additionally, we'll share downloadable resources and information on how you can schedule your free project consultation with us, the radiant heating experts.

One of the first steps to ensure your floor heating system is installed correctly is proper planning. Let's review some key considerations before installation begins. Scott, can you explain a bit about our smart plans and their importance?

The smart plans provide a clear idea of what will be covered on your floor and ensure that the installation is done efficiently. This means no cold spots or areas that are too hot—just heat where you need it and no heat where you don't. The smart plans also include electrical requirements, such as voltage, the number of breakers, circuit load, and operating costs. They help us determine where the power will be located in the room, based on the thermostat's position. If anything changes, it's essential to inform us. The smart plan takes the guesswork out of the layout, which is often a challenge for first-time installers. Instead of trying to figure it out on your own, simply send us a dimensional drawing, and we will handle the rest.

Absolutely. The smart plans are designed to simplify the process for everyone involved. As you mentioned, we consider ourselves the experts in this field. One of the best things to send us is a sketch of the heated area. It doesn't need to be perfect; we've received sketches on the back of pizza boxes before. The key is to ensure that the dimensions are accurate and that you mark any permanent fixtures, such as floor vents, plumbing, built-ins, cabinets, and columns. This way, we can ensure that heat is directed to the right places and avoid putting it where it shouldn't be, resulting in optimal coverage.

We will also help you determine whether our TempZone cut and turn mats or our loose cable is the best option for your specific project. One common oversight is forgetting to mark the floor vents on the drawing. When we create the layout for you, we will send it back for verification. This is your opportunity to confirm the dimensions and check for any missing elements, such as air vents. If there are changes, like a newly added freestanding tub, we need to know since we can't heat under that.

If you realize something is missing, just mark it up and send it back to us, and we'll redo the plan for you. It's a straightforward process. And to answer a question we often receive: there is no cost for the SmartPlan layout. These are complimentary, and we typically turn them around within about a business day, so you won't have to wait long.

Now, Scott, can you explain what we see in terms of the actual markings on the drawing?

This drawing appears to be for an installation using Ruler Cable. The Ruler Cable has footage and inch markings, which help you track the amount of cable used and ensure proper spacing. The highlighted numbers around the room's perimeter indicate the feet displayed on the cable at those points. For example, you might see readings of 80 feet, 150 feet, and so on. These measurements help you verify that you're using the correct amount of cable and spacing it appropriately.

If the cable fixing strips are too close together, you may end up with too much cable; if they're too far apart, you won't have enough. The numbers around the perimeter also indicate the distance from the wall to the cable fixing strips. For instance, six inches from the wall to the cable, seven inches from another fixture, and so forth. It's crucial to follow these measurements to avoid issues with cable length. In the upper right corner, you'll see a "T" in a circle, which indicates where the thermostat is located. We design the layout based on the thermostat's position, so if it changes, let us know, and we'll redraw the plan accordingly.

Another important aspect of the SmartPlan is the electrical details. We provide a comprehensive electrical plan that outlines essential information for your electrician. Scott, can you elaborate on what information is included in this electrical plan?

The electrical plan tells the electrician exactly what they need to do. All power leads must travel back to the thermostat; the heating systems should never be connected to each other. It's crucial to test the cables with a digital ohm meter. The plan specifies where to place the thermostat, the size of the box to use for the thermostat, and whether conduit is required. It also details the system being quoted, wattage, control voltage, and the specifications of the cable used in that room. Additionally, it indicates the floor load, which is the power consumption per hour. For instance, it might state 1300 watts or 1.3 kilowatts, along with the required breaker size. Everything the electrician needs to complete the job is included in this sheet, which accompanies the installation plan.

Absolutely. We strive to make this process as simple as possible for both you and your electrician. You will receive this sheet, along with the installation plan for the tile installer, and the electrician will have the electrical plan to ensure they have the right parts for the job.

Now, let's discuss which product will be best for your application. We offer cable and mesh options, and we'll go over how to choose the best one for your project. Cable is great for flexibility, while mesh is ideal for installation speed and convenience. Both options provide long-lasting comfort.

First, let's talk about our TempZone cable or loose cable. This is excellent for custom layouts or irregularly shaped rooms that require many cuts and turns. It's also a good option for flexibility in wattage output, allowing you to space the cables as needed to achieve different wattages and power levels. Scott, can you provide more details about this product and its design?

Certainly! The TempZone cable is a twin conductor cable, which means it has very low EMF, so you don't have to worry about electromagnetic fields. It's designed with a robust covering that works perfectly with the Perdesso and coupling membrane. Unlike older cables, which varied in thickness based on length, this cable maintains a consistent diameter regardless of its length. This uniformity allows it to snap into the Perdesso membrane easily. The cable delivers 3.7 watts per linear foot, and you can adjust the spacing to achieve the desired watts per square foot. For cold floors, the wires should be spaced three inches apart, while floors on upper levels can use four or five inches.

Absolutely, and it seems we have a question from Sebastian. If you could please type that in the chat feature, that would be helpful. Otherwise, we can allow him to speak. I think it might be best to put that in the Q&A section.

Now, let's move on to the TempZone mesh, which includes our TempZone Flex Rolls or TempZone Flex Roll EZ Mats. These are excellent for standard-shaped rooms and quick installations. They are efficient, with pre-spaced wire already attached to the mesh, ensuring consistent and even heat coverage. The wire can also be removed from the mesh as needed to navigate around obstacles or fixtures. Scott, can you share more about the TempZone Flex Rolls or EZ Mats and where they work best?

Sure! The TempZone Flex Rolls are rectangular, making them a great fit for rectangular areas. While they can be adapted for curved spaces by removing the cable from the mesh, the most common question we receive is whether to install them with the cable facing up or down. Ideally, you want to install them with the cable facing down. Some installation plans may show it with the cable side up for transitions, but generally, you should aim for cable side down. The mesh is pre-spaced at three-inch intervals, providing about 15 watts per square foot in that application.

For curved areas, you'll need to remove the cable from the mesh to fit it properly. The installation process is quick; you roll it out, cut the mesh, and turn it as needed. It's a fast installation method, but keep in mind that it provides around 15 watts per square foot. This option is great for full coverage or spot heating, such as in front of a toilet or vanity.

We received a question from Sebastian regarding which option is better for primary heat in a kitchen with a sliding patio door nearby. The best approach is to conduct a heat loss calculation, which is available on our website under the tools section. This calculator will help determine if either product can provide enough BTUs to heat the room effectively. Sliding patio doors are notorious for heat loss, so it's crucial to assess the situation carefully.

If you're considering a floating installation, we do have products that don't need to be embedded, such as our Environ product. For other installations, both the cable and mesh must be embedded in a cementitious underlayment, like thin set or self-leveling, as they are not designed for open-air installations.

Great point! Moving on to installation best practices, successful installations often begin with expert guidance. With over 25 years of proven techniques, we focus on precision, efficiency, and lasting performance.

The first step in installation is preparing the subfloor. Scott, can you explain what goes into preparing the subfloor?

Absolutely! You want to ensure the subfloor is flat and ready to receive self-leveling primer or thin set. For example, if the floor has a seam with a crack where one side is higher than the other, you may need to grind it down to achieve a flatter surface. Once the subfloor is level, you can apply self-leveling material to create a smooth base for the heating system.

In this particular case, we cleaned the surface and adhered the ThermalSheet to the slab. It's crucial never to place heating wire directly on a concrete slab, as it will pull heat down, preventing your feet from feeling warm.

Before starting any work, always clean the area thoroughly. One common issue we see on job sites is dust accumulation, which can hinder adhesion. So, make sure to get the subfloor as clean as possible before proceeding with the installation.

If you're using self-leveling material, check the bag for primer requirements, as some self-levelers need primer to set correctly.

This image illustrates the difference between an area with ThermalSheet and one without. The ThermalSheet insulates the heating system, allowing heat to rise effectively. Scott, can you elaborate on what we're seeing in this picture?

In this photo, we installed ThermalSheet throughout the room, except for one corner, which we left blank for demonstration purposes. The corner without ThermalSheet shows how heat retention can be compromised. I've received calls from customers who say their floors aren't warm enough, and upon checking, I often find they declined the ThermalSheet installation.

Without it, the floor may feel lukewarm instead of warm, leading to dissatisfaction. This image was taken just 15 minutes after turning on the system, and you can already see a temperature difference. It's essential for customer satisfaction to have a genuinely warm floor, not just one that isn't cold.

Another crucial tip is to test your system frequently during installation. We recommend using a multimeter or ohm meter to check functionality at least three times: before installation, during the process, and after to catch any potential damage.

Many issues arise because installers neglect to invest in a $20 ohm meter. It's essential to test the product upon receipt to ensure everything is functioning correctly before installation day. If something goes wrong during the installation, you can identify it early and address it before proceeding.

After laying out the product, test it again before covering it with tile or other flooring materials. Record the final readings in the owner's manual, as this documentation is vital for future reference.

We had a question from Mikey about using synthetic cork with an OSB subfloor. The answer is yes; it can be beneficial. However, if you're on the second floor above a heated area, you may not need it, as the heat from below will naturally warm the floor. If the space isn't conditioned, then synthetic cork can help.

Another essential tool for ensuring a functioning system is our circuit check. This device connects to the system during installation and sounds an alarm if the wire is damaged, allowing you to address issues before proceeding with the flooring.

We recommend using one circuit check per product. If you're installing multiple rolls or working in multiple rooms, having one circuit check for each system is advisable. This way, if an alarm sounds, you can quickly identify which roll is causing the issue.

This page outlines how to perform ohm readings. In the TempZone installation manual, we emphasize the importance of testing, as many people overlook this step. It's crucial to test not only the heating circuit but also for shorts by measuring resistance to ground.

The readings across the yellow and black or red and black wires indicate the heating circuit, while the readings to ground help identify shorts. Using a digital ohm meter is essential for accurate readings, as continuity checkers won't provide the necessary information.

Another important consideration is sensor placement. Each thermostat comes with a sensor, and only one can be connected to the thermostat at a time. However, you can install a primary and backup sensor simultaneously for added reliability.

The sensors should be placed six to eight inches into the heated area, near the thermostat, and away from direct sunlight. If the sensor is exposed to sunlight, it may misread the floor temperature, leading to improper heating.

When installing backup sensors, ensure that only one is connected to the thermostat. If both sensors are connected, the ohm resistance will double, causing inaccurate readings.

Now, regarding the installation of the flex roll, remember to keep the cable side down and only cut the mesh, not the heating cable itself. Use a hot glue gun or staple gun to secure the mesh to the subfloor, but avoid stapling over the heating cables.

One common mistake beginners make is attaching the mesh before confirming the layout. Instead, lay out the entire system, make necessary cuts and turns, and only then secure it to the subfloor. This approach prevents complications later on.

If you're wondering about spacing between the rolls or lines, the mesh can be placed right next to each other as long as the loops don't touch. While it's best to offset the loops for safety, we rarely receive complaints about issues arising from close spacing.

Another installation option is using grip strips with loose cable. This is an economical choice, as the fixing strips are included with the heating cable, allowing for flexible layouts. However, it does require manual spacing, making it more labor-intensive.

When using grip strips, consider using inexpensive masking tape to hold the cables in place while pouring self-leveling material. The tape only needs to hold the cables down temporarily, so a basic masking tape will suffice.

These new grip strips are designed to hold the cable securely, even during curves, without damaging it. Avoid using metal straps, as they can cause compliance issues and potentially damage the heating cable.

Another option for loose cable installation is an uncoupling membrane, which offers faster installation times. The built-in grooves or channels hold the cable in place, eliminating the need for manual spacing. This membrane also acts as a barrier to prevent cracks in the substrate from affecting the tile or stone surface.

The Perdesso membrane is waterproof, making it ideal for wet areas like bathrooms. It's important to note that not every floor requires a membrane, so consult with us to determine if it's necessary for your specific installation.

Once the system is laid out according to the SmartPlan, we can begin embedding it. Scott, can you explain the embedding process for LVT?

Embedding is crucial for LVT, which is made of vinyl and has a property called drape. This means that if LVT is installed without embedding, the heating cable lines may become visible over time. By embedding the system in a 3/8 to 1/2 inch bed of self-leveling material, you create a flat surface for the LVT to be installed on, ensuring a seamless appearance.

We received a question about installing radiant flooring over existing tile. If the tile bed is solid, it can be done. However, it's essential to consult with a thin set manufacturer to determine the best approach for adhering to the top of the tile.

In the image, you can see that the mat has been attached with staples to the floor, cable side down. This is important because if the cable is facing up, it may float to the surface when self-leveling material is poured.

When installing the wiring, conduit, and thermostats, a licensed electrician is often required, depending on local codes. It's essential to communicate with your local electrical authority to ensure compliance with their protocols.

The cold leads should be run to a junction box in the wall, acting as a relay connected to the thermostat. Keep the sensor wire separate from the power leads to avoid interference.

The sensor wire should never be run in the same conduit as the power leads. Local codes may vary, so it's crucial to check your specific requirements regarding conduit use for low and high voltage wires.

Regarding GFCI requirements for power leads, the product must be protected by GFCI as per the National Electric Code. The thermostat includes GFCI protection, so avoid installing a GFCI breaker, as this can lead to nuisance trips.

Now, let's discuss how to prevent common issues and ensure proper installation. As Benjamin Franklin said, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. This section is particularly important for upcoming installations.

The circuit check and ohm meter are essential tools to prevent problems. The circuit check continuously monitors the heating circuit for shorts, while the ohm meter is used initially to verify functionality.

After laying out the system, use the circuit check again before covering it with flooring materials. If the circuit check sounds an alarm, it indicates a problem that needs to be addressed before proceeding.

Mikey asked about using multiple thermostats for installations. A thermostat can switch up to 15 amps, so if you're using multiple mats, it's best to use one continuous roll or cable to simplify connections and avoid complications.

It's important to avoid overlapping heating cables, as this can lead to overheating and failure. Ensure that factory splices are embedded in thinset or self-leveling material, as they cannot be left exposed.

Another common mistake is attempting to install heating cables under built-in fixtures. You can install them under suspended vanities, but not under permanent fixtures like bathtubs or bookcases, as this can trap heat and lead to failure.

Voltage and thermostat capacity are also critical considerations. Not every floor heating system operates at 240 volts; 120-volt systems are suitable for areas under 120 square feet.

If you need to heat larger spaces, use a 240-volt product with a thermostat and power module. Each power module can switch an additional 15 amps, allowing for coverage of larger areas.

Post-installation issues can arise from cleaning grout lines or drilling into the floor, potentially damaging the heating element. It's