Smart Flooring Choices for Energy-Efficient Radiant Heating

Today we are going to be discussing smart flooring choices for energy-efficient radiant heating. That's a mouthful, but we're going to cover various products and installation methods. If you have any questions, feel free to type them in the "ask a question" area. We initially had a Q&A section, but it disappeared, so bear with me while I get it back open. There we go; I've got it back open, and we'll be glad to assist you.

Today, we'll talk about the benefits of different flooring types, the compatible systems for those flooring types, tips for correct installation, and how to operate them in an energy-efficient manner. Historically, tile flooring has always been a popular choice for heating because it feels cold to the touch. Many of our projects are in bathrooms, where people prefer warm floors. Tile is easy to clean and ideal for high-traffic areas like bathrooms and kitchens. While it feels cold initially, it can be heated effectively without a high-temperature limit, meaning you can turn the heat up significantly without damaging the tile, as it is a very sturdy surface.

So, what kind of floor heating is compatible with tile? Our TempZone embedded systems are the answer. If you've visited our website, you may have noticed that we offer both embedded and floating systems. Today, we will primarily focus on embedded systems, but we will mention floating systems when relevant. The term "embedded," as you see on your screen, refers to systems that are installed in a bed of thinset or self-leveling cement. This installation method is part of the instruction manual, and it's a UL-listed product that complies with electrical codes when installed correctly.

I received a question recently about whether the system is waterproof. Yes, it is waterproof because it must be to withstand the moisture present in thinset and self-leveling cement. The product is naturally waterproof unless it is cut during installation. This product is available in a flex roll, which features mesh that can be cut and turned, as well as in cable form, ruler cable, easy mats, and custom mats. The cable can also be used in conjunction with an anti-fracture membrane, making it a versatile option. Typically, cable is the least expensive option because it can be used with just the strips or with a membrane.

This product is wet location listed, meaning it can be used in showers and similar areas, but it should never be installed in walls, as the National Electric Code prohibits electric floor heating products from being placed in walls. Therefore, this system is suitable for installation on floors, including bathroom floors, mudroom floors, and even in showers.

When installing the TempZone system with tile flooring, it requires an embedded installation. As mentioned, this can be done with thinset or self-leveling cement, and you should aim for a layer thickness of about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. This layer helps to distribute heat evenly, preventing hot and cold spots. Most of our installation plans show the wire spaced three inches apart. This spacing is crucial because heat typically travels about 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches from each side of the cable.

If you place two cables too close together, the heat from each will overlap, leading to uneven heating across the tile floor. The TempZone system is usually attached to the subfloor with hot glue, or if you're using a mesh system, you can secure it with staples. However, it's essential never to staple over the cable, as this can cause damage. Instead, staple the mesh and ensure the cable is facing down, allowing the staples to hold the cables in place.

After securing the cables, you can apply the thinset or self-leveling cement before installing the tile. There are two installation methods for tile: a single-step and a two-step method. The single-step method involves placing the heating product directly on the wood subfloor, then applying thinset over it and setting the tile. This method can be challenging to execute correctly, particularly in eliminating lippage, which is the height difference between tiles.

For those less experienced, the two-step method is generally easier. In this approach, you attach the heating product to the subfloor, cover it with a skim coat of thinset about 1/4 inch thick, and then return the next day to install the tile on top. This method ultimately results in a 3/8 to 1/2 inch layer of thinset, providing an even heat distribution.

To operate the system, you'll use one of our thermostats, which come with GFCI protection built-in, eliminating the need for a separate GFCI circuit breaker. One of the advantages of tile is that you can set the temperature quite high—up to 100 or 101 degrees—without damaging the tile. This feature is particularly beneficial for spaces like three-season rooms that require significant heat input, as tile does not have a maximum temperature restriction like some other flooring materials.

It's essential to adjust the temperature throughout the year. You can utilize setback temperatures, which means operating the system at a higher temperature when someone is home and lowering it when the space is unoccupied. This programmability allows you to reduce operational costs. For example, you might run the system at 84 degrees while home and then lower it to 70 degrees overnight or when no one is present.

A floor sensor is crucial for this process, and it must be installed correctly. The sensor should be placed in an open loop, approximately six to eight inches into the loop of heating wire, without crossing over the wire itself. If the sensor touches the wire, it will cause the system to short cycle, leading to inaccurate temperature readings.

Now, let's discuss luxury vinyl tile (LVT), which is increasingly popular. We receive numerous inquiries about LVT, and it's essential to remember a few key points when installing it. LVT is easy to install and comes in a variety of designs, making it a versatile choice. If you decide to change your LVT after five years, you can simply lift it up and replace it with new LVT, unlike tile, which requires breaking and potentially damaging the heating wire during removal.

LVT is generally water-resistant and durable, but it does have a maximum temperature limit that you must adhere to, which varies by manufacturer—typically around 82 to 84 degrees. This limitation means that LVT may not be the best choice for high-heat applications like three-season rooms, where tile can be heated much more effectively.

When installing LVT, you should use our TempZone heating system, specifically the TempZone flex rolls, which need to be embedded. The installation manual will specify that the heating cable must be at least 1/2 inch away from the flooring. This distance is crucial for ensuring compliance with the manufacturer's requirements and achieving the necessary flatness for LVT installation.

LVT has a tendency to mold to the surface beneath it, which can lead to issues if installed directly over heating cables. Therefore, using self-leveling cement to create a flat surface is essential. This method not only meets the manufacturer's criteria but also ensures that the heat can effectively transfer through the flooring.

As with tile, LVT is installed over the TempZone system, creating a heated subfloor. If you later decide to switch from LVT to tile, you can back butter the tile and apply thinset over the self-leveling layer. However, ensure that the self-leveling cement is fully cured and at the proper moisture content before proceeding with the installation of any flooring material.

It's also vital to check the R-value rating of the LVT planks, as an R-value of one or less is recommended for efficient heat transfer. If the LVT is too thick or has a high R-value, it may trap heat beneath it, preventing the floor from warming effectively.

Most LVT products will have a specified maximum temperature limit, so it's crucial to use a thermostat with a floor sensor to maintain the desired temperature. The sensor should be installed correctly to ensure accurate temperature regulation. Additionally, verify any setback restrictions with the LVT manufacturer, as some may not allow significant temperature fluctuations.

Now, let's discuss nailed-down and glued-down wood flooring. A common question is whether hardwood floors can work with electric underfloor heating. The answer is a resounding yes. I personally installed a system in a friend's living room with high ceilings that was notoriously cold. We placed a three-quarter-inch oak hardwood floor over an electric heating system installed in the subfloor, and it transformed the space, keeping the floor warm and comfortable.

Hardwood flooring can be installed using either a nailed-down or glued-down method, or a combination of both. In the installation I completed, we used sleepers to run the heating cable between them. This method ensures that the floor remains warm and comfortable, especially in rooms with high ceilings where heat tends to rise.

When installing hardwood, it's essential to use self-leveling cement to create a flat surface. The heating system must be embedded, and for nailed-down flooring, wooden sleepers should be used. Always apply primer to the plywood subfloor before pouring self-leveling cement, as specified by the manufacturer.

The curing time and allowable moisture content will be outlined on the self-leveling product's bag, and it's crucial to follow these guidelines to ensure a successful installation. Once the self-leveling cement is cured and dried, you can proceed with installing the wood flooring.

For control, a non-programmable thermostat is often used with hardwood floors. This is because many high-end wood floors do not allow for setback temperatures, meaning you set it and leave it at a consistent temperature throughout the winter. The thermostat will maintain the desired temperature until you choose to change it.

In contrast, floating wood flooring, often engineered wood or laminate, can also be installed over a heating system. Our Environ system is best suited for floating floors, as it requires no adhesion or embedding. It is a foil-backed mat that floats beneath the flooring, making installation quick and easy.

When using the Environ system, it's crucial to have an underlayment to cushion the heating elements against a hard subfloor. A quarter-inch or six-millimeter pad is recommended to ensure stability and prevent the flooring from teeter-tottering over the heating elements.

As with other flooring types, ensure that the R-value of the floating flooring is one or less to allow for efficient heat transfer. Verify the temperature limits specified by the manufacturer to avoid exceeding them, as the thermostat will regulate the temperature based on the installed floor sensor.

In summary, always check with the flooring manufacturer for their radiant floor heating requirements, including temperature limits and setback restrictions. Choose a thermostat that is compatible with your heating needs and flooring material. If setbacks are not allowed, a simple non-programmable thermostat will suffice.

For those that can utilize setbacks, we offer touchscreen thermostats that are easy to use and come in Wi-Fi versions compatible with Alexa and Google Home. This allows for convenient voice control of your floor temperature.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. Thank you for joining us today, and I appreciate Olivia for her assistance in running this webinar. If you have any further inquiries, you can email us at info@warmlyyours.com or call our toll-free number at 800-875-5285. Stay warm, be radiant, and have a great day!