Transforming a Cold Basement with Floor Heating

We do have an above-ground basement. It is on a lake, so yep, less beyond measure. But with that comes some dampness and occasionally some water coming into the basement. So we had to do a major review. That’s just to give you a general idea of what we're going to be talking about. We're going to be discussing a project with tile and a project with carpet. Before we dive into that, I want to remind you that we encourage you to ask questions. Engaging with us is key to being live here. We have always sent out emails asking for people to submit questions in advance, and we've received some great ones today. One of my favorites came from Les, who asked about something really important: what's your favorite color? We want more questions like that, Les! My favorite color is blue, and anyone who visits my house will know that. Thank you for bringing some lightness into today's presentation, Les.

Now, let's move on. We will be answering more of those questions, but first, let’s discuss why we would want to heat a basement. In the wintertime, basements can be very cold, and many holidays in North America, like Thanksgiving and Christmas, occur during this season. When you have large gatherings, you often end up with guests in the basement, which can feel like a dungeon if it’s not heated. By heating the basement, it transforms into a pleasant space where family members can hang out or even sleep, effectively increasing your living area and enhancing your home's resale value. Personally, my basement had that musty smell, typical of spaces that haven't been renovated in years. I wanted to eliminate that dampness and ensure that if flooding occurred, I had a flooring type like tile that could limit damage. Comfort was my top priority, followed closely by mitigating potential water damage.

When considering flooring for a basement, it’s essential to use materials rated for below-grade installation since some or all of your basement is likely below ground level. This consideration eliminates certain flooring options that aren't designed for such environments. Heating the basement is beneficial for various reasons, both personal and general, as it adds value to your home and makes existing space usable year-round. Now, let’s discuss how we will heat it—specifically, using electric floor heating.

Electric radiant heat is easier and less expensive to install compared to hydronic systems or space heaters. With electric heating, there’s no need for tubing, concrete pouring, or bulky mechanical rooms filled with boilers and pumps. If you've ever seen hot water tubes and pumps in someone's basement, you know they take up valuable space that could otherwise be used for living. Many people install electric floor heating as a retrofit, just like I did, which makes the flexibility and ease of installation particularly important during a remodel. Additionally, you won’t have to worry about flushing the system or replacing a blown pump every year. You simply turn it on and enjoy the warmth.

While we’ve discussed the reasons related to floor height, comfort is another significant factor. In many basements, forced air heating only warms the upper portion of the room, leaving your feet cold. If you’re in a basement during frigid temperatures, your head might feel comfortable while your feet are freezing. Electric floor heating keeps your feet warm, which is especially beneficial for children and pets who often spend time on the floor. By heating the entire space from the bottom up, you create a much more comfortable environment.

As I mentioned earlier, we will be discussing two different projects: one with tile and one with carpet. It’s crucial to understand the flooring type you’ll be using from the outset. While many people love hardwood floors, they are generally not a good fit for basements. Most hardwood flooring warranties are voided if installed below grade due to potential water issues. If you have areas prone to flooding, it’s better to use carpet or laminate in those spots, while reserving engineered wood for areas that are less likely to see water.

For the heating system, the TempZone is compatible with tile, stone, marble, nailed hardwood, and luxury vinyl tile (LVT). It is designed for wet locations, meaning you can even use it in a shower if needed. The TempZone heating system is waterproof, ensuring that moisture won’t damage the heating elements. On the other hand, the Environnn heating system is specifically designed for use with carpeting in the U.S. and can also be used with laminate or floating hardwood. This system allows for easy installation without the need for thinset or glue, as it’s never embedded.

When determining the flooring type, we can guide you on which heating system works best. A bird's-eye view of the two products shows the differences in installation. If you want your floors to heat quickly, avoid placing the heating wire directly on the concrete slab, as the slab will absorb the heat. Instead, use insulation like Cerazorb or cork to keep the heat directed upwards. Cerazorb is synthetic and ideal for damp areas, while cork is natural and should be used in dry locations to avoid mold growth.

Insulation is critical in a basement setting. Unfortunately, many people overlook this step, but we have been advocating for it for years. The goal is to keep the heat moving upwards rather than allowing it to dissipate into the cold concrete slab. In my case, I have a fairly large basement of 1,322 square feet, so I chose the TempZone cable product for its flexibility. I opted for nailing strips to control the spacing, which ultimately affects the wattage and material costs. We also decided to install Cerazorb for insulation, as we are located in Illinois, where temperatures can drop significantly.

This project required 43.9 amps, which is above average for a basement. When calculating operating costs, remember that the total heated area is usually smaller than the entire space, as you don’t need to heat areas where people don’t stand. For my project, I heated about 1,100 square feet, which required approximately 10.5 kilowatts. To determine the cost per hour, simply multiply the kilowatts by your local electric rate. For example, at 10 cents per kilowatt, it would cost about 84 cents per hour to operate.

It’s important to note that this cost reflects the initial heating period. Once the desired temperature is reached, the system will cycle on and off, reducing the overall operating cost by about a third. If you know you won’t be using the basement for an extended period, you can turn the system off entirely, saving on energy costs.

We always recommend having a plan in place before installation to avoid issues later on. This plan should include the location of any drains, vents, and support beams, as these elements can affect the layout of your heating system. We can turn around your plans within 24 hours, ensuring you have an accurate design to discuss with the homeowner.

In my project sketch, the engineering team provided a detailed plan for installation. Each thermostat or power module can only handle 15 amps, so it’s crucial to plan for multiple zones if needed. The master thermostat controls the power modules, which supply power to the heating system. Each power module is labeled for easy identification, and our heating wire features markings that indicate the center point and remaining feet, simplifying the installation process.

If you find that your dimensions change after receiving the plan, let us know immediately. We can quickly adjust the layout to accommodate any new measurements. It’s also essential to keep in mind that excess cable can be run into unheated areas along the perimeter of the room, as long as you maintain the required distance from other heating cables.

Now, let’s discuss the installation process. We will cover the cross-section of a tile installation. Starting from the bottom, we have the concrete slab, which needs to be covered with latex modified thinset before installing the Cerazorb insulation. The cables are laid out and attached to the Cerazorb, followed by a layer of thinset or self-leveling material before placing the tile on top.

For my project, I opted for Cerazorb, which is optional but beneficial. The installation requires minimal tools, such as an eighth-inch v-notch trowel and a 50-pound roller for flattening the floor. It’s crucial to ensure the floor is flat before installation, as uneven surfaces can lead to complications.

When you receive the heating cable, it’s vital to open the box and test the product immediately. This precaution prevents issues on the job site when you have a crew ready to install. Testing the cable with a digital ohm meter ensures that it’s in good condition before installation.

During the installation, it’s essential to keep the spool of cable close to the floor to maintain the strength of the double-sided tape used to secure the cable strips. If the spool is held too high, it can pull the strips off the floor. Additionally, using masking tape every couple of feet can help keep the cables in place while you work.

As for the flooring options, we often receive questions about whether other surfaces, such as vinyl or engineered wood, can be used. For these applications, self-leveling is recommended to create a smooth surface. It’s important to remember that the floor sensor is a critical component of the thermostat and must be installed correctly to avoid short cycling.

If you plan to use self-leveling cement, be prepared to use a primer beforehand. Once the self-leveling material is poured, you can install various flooring types, including luxury vinyl tile, laminate, or carpet squares.

In my basement, I chose a wood-look tile for its warmth and coziness. However, it’s essential to ensure that the subfloor is flat, especially when using large format tiles, which require specific thinset and trowel sizes.

For the carpeted room, I selected a high R-value pad to ensure efficient heat transfer. When installing carpet, avoid pre-attached padding, as it can act as an insulator and prevent heat from rising.

In summary, I used the Environnn product for my theater room, which is quick and easy to install. The total cost for this project came to $2,326, which breaks down to $8.77 per square foot. While smaller areas may have a higher cost per square foot, the installation time is significantly reduced, saving on labor costs.

As we wrap up, I encourage you to ask any questions you may have. We host these sessions on the second Thursday of every month, and our next event will be an open Q&A session. We also have a summer sale offering an additional 15% off all floor heating products, including underlayment.

We value your feedback, so please reach out with any comments or suggestions. You can contact me directly at jbillen@warmlyyours.com or through generalinfo@warmlyyours.com. Thank you for joining us today, and we look forward to seeing you next month!