How to Install Environ Flex Floor-Heating Rolls
Expert Installation Guide for Electric Floor Heating Rolls on Concrete Floors under Laminate
Are you challenged by the task of installing electric floor heating on concrete floors under laminate? This video tutorial will guide you through the easy installation of WarmlyYours Environ Flex Roll system, designed specifically for optimal heating and comfort.
- Understand the crucial aspects of the Environ Flex Roll, including voltage, ohm values, and proper positioning.
- Learn the benefits and installation process of laying cork on the concrete slab for insulation and routing cables.
- Discover the floating installation method and how it simplifies the flooring process.
- Find out the importance of a circuit check and how to use a digital ohmmeter for product testing.
- Learn the techniques for trenching cork for a flat installation and preventing unevenness in flooring.
This comprehensive guide provides valuable insights for both DIY enthusiasts and professionals, offering a reliable process for a safe and efficient heating system installation.
Hello. Today we're going to be talking about installing our EnvirOn Flex Rolls over a concrete floor and under laminate. We'll discuss the best practices for this installation. As we examine the roll, there are a couple of important features to note. First, there is the cold lead, which will need to be routed back to the wall and up to the thermostat. On this cold lead, you'll notice a couple of stickers. One is a yellow sticker indicating the voltage, which in this case is 120 volts. It is crucial to avoid mixing 120-volt rolls with 240-volt rolls; the entire installation must be done using the same voltage. Additionally, there is a UL label that provides the ohm values for this mat. Lastly, the roll has a sticker that says "this side up," which is essential for proper installation.
We have placed cork down on our cement slab, and this serves multiple purposes. It acts as an insulator, preventing heat from dissipating into the slab and directing it upward through the flooring, allowing you to feel more warmth. The cork also provides a pathway for routing the cold lead cables from the end of the mat back to the wall. It's important to remember that this type of installation is purely floating; the laminate will float over the top of the cork, and the EnvirOn Flex Rolls are not fastened down to anything. This floating installation method simplifies the flooring process, making it one of the easiest options available.
I have gathered all the necessary tools for our installation, including a circuit check. When working with a cut-and-turn product like this, it’s advisable to have a circuit check on hand to alert you if you accidentally damage the wire during cuts and turns. I also like to mark the locations of the splice and the cold lead on the cork itself. This way, I can easily remove the product, trench out the cork, and then reapply it. When laying down the cork, ensure that you use a brick pattern rather than placing two pieces directly next to each other. This technique helps maintain stability and prevents any unevenness in the flooring.
As we take a closer look at the roll, we can see where the cold lead enters. This area will need to be trenched out of the cork to ensure a flat installation, preventing any teeter-totter effect when walking over the laminate. Before proceeding with the installation, it’s essential to test the product using a digital ohmmeter set to the 200 range. The first test should be conducted between the two core wires—yellow and black in this 120-volt system—to ensure the reading matches the value indicated on the tag. Following this, check for shorts by testing from black to ground and then from yellow to ground. If both tests yield no readings, the mat is confirmed to be in good condition. After making any cuts and turns, repeat these tests, and remember to keep the circuit check on during the flooring installation.
Now, we are ready for a test fit. When you receive this product from WarmlyYours, it will typically come with an installation plan detailing the lengths for each run and when to make cuts. The mat itself shows that the wire is spaced every two inches, indicating where to make your first, second, third, and fourth cuts. If you want the product to turn left, you must cut the mat appropriately, ensuring that you never cut the wire itself. I will mark the starting location of the mat, where the cold lead exits, and where it enters the mat, as we will need to trench this area to ensure a flat installation.
Next, let’s examine the underside of the mat. Remember, this side must always face downward. Here, you can see where the cable exits the mat. We will cut this section with scissors, allowing us to make a 180-degree turn and direct the mat back toward the wall. It’s crucial to make the cut between the two wires and to lift the cable before cutting underneath it. This will enable the mat to separate and facilitate the turn while keeping the wire intact. During the layout, ensure that the loops from adjacent mats are offset to avoid having their ends close together, as this could lead to wires touching each other. If necessary, adjust the mats slightly apart to maintain a safe distance.
Once you've gained experience with this process, you may find that marking the edges of the mats becomes less necessary. However, I prefer to mark them to avoid any misalignment if I need to lift them back up. I have also marked the location of the cold lead. It’s now time to cut into the cork. Always handle sharp blades carefully to avoid damaging the product. The goal is to create a smooth surface for the cable, which has a flat side that should be positioned correctly for a seamless installation.
Now, let’s look at the splice in the roll and see how it fits into the cutout we made. To assist with the installation, align the splice with your marks and use high-quality tape to secure it in place. This tape will help keep the cold lead down in the gap, ensuring a flat surface. Remember, this is a floating floor installation, so you can tape the edges in place to prevent them from drifting, but there’s no need to glue anything to the floor or the flooring itself.
With the mat laid out, we need to consider how to route the leads up to the thermostat. For a single mat, this is straightforward; you can run a piece of conduit down the wall from the thermostat and route the cable through a hole in the plate. Local codes may require this conduit installation. However, if you have multiple mats, it can be challenging to get all the cold leads up to the thermostat. In such cases, consider installing a junction box at ground level, allowing you to connect all mats back to this box and run a single wire of Romex up to the thermostat.
Now, we need to route the cold lead back to the wall. I will mark the location and trench it out for a smooth surface. Next, we need to test our thermostat sensor, which will be installed in the floor. Set your digital ohmmeter to the 20K range for this test. It’s important to avoid touching the wires with your hands; instead, use something to pin the wire against for an accurate reading. The sensor should typically read around 10,000 ohms, with acceptable values ranging from 8,000 to 18,000. If you set the meter to the 200 range, it may show zero, leading you to believe the sensor is faulty when it is not.
For the placement of the thermostat sensor, ensure it is positioned about six inches into an open looped area of the mat. The sensor wire should travel between the heating wires without touching them, as contact could lead to inaccurate thermostat readings. We will place the sensor underneath the mat to prevent any teeter-totter effect on top of the sensor head. I will mark the location, peel back the mat, and create a small divot in the cork for the sensor to sit in.
It’s crucial that the sensor head does not rest directly on the concrete slab, as this could cause the system to remain on continuously due to the cooler temperature of the slab. Instead, we will dig out just enough cork to allow the sensor to rest securely without making contact with the concrete. After preparing the area, clean out any loose cork to avoid pinching the wire. I will tape the sensor in place within the divot, ensuring it remains secure and does not touch any nearby wires.
Now, I will mark the location of the sensor wire to trench a small groove leading back to the wall. It is essential to never run the sensor wire alongside the high-voltage wire that powers the mat, as this could interfere with thermostat readings. When the wires enter the wall, ensure that the high-voltage wire goes up the conduit, while the low-voltage wire, if required by local code, goes in a separate conduit. Some codes may not require low-voltage wiring to be in conduit, so be sure to check your local regulations.
Finally, we are ready to install the flooring. I have already started the process. If you would like to see how to connect the wiring to the thermostat, we have that information available in a separate video. For any additional details on laying out this product, please visit warmlyours.com or call us at 800-875-5285.