How to Heat Almost Any Wood Floor


In this webinar, we show you all the ways to add electric floor heating to wood floors. From nailed-down hardwood to floating laminate, our experts show which systems work best for each application and how to program the control for long-lasting results.

Video Transcript

Hello, and welcome to this month's webinar. My name is Scott, and this is Are you there Lynn?

Yes. There we go.


Now I can see everything. I can hear you. We're good.

Alright. Still learning this this new system that we have. So thanks for bearing with us.

Today, what we're gonna be talking about is how to heat almost any floor, any wood floor in particular. So, thank you for joining us. And if you do have any questions, feel free to hit the ask a question, here button. I'm going to open up the Q and a and make sure the Q and a window is open.

And that way, we can see. And, Lynn, can you open the Q and A? Yes. Do you see that or no?

I believe I can. Let me double check.

If not, mine is open too, but sometimes two sets of eyes are are better than just one. So just go ahead and hit the ask question, and that's going to go into our Q and A section, and we will be glad to help you out there.

So what we're going to be talking about today is heating wood floors, obviously, and that's why you're here because that's why we we told you what was going to be here. And, we're gonna talk about hardwood flooring. We're also gonna talk about floating flooring.

And then the things you need to worry about post installation, with your system.

So what are some of the benefits of heating wood floors?

Yeah. So wood floors are a really, obviously, a beautiful flooring type. And with the proper care, they can for a really long time. So if you're going to be putting something into your home that's going to potentially be there for, you know, it's gonna cost you quite a bit of money to put in. A bit of time you want it to last and investing in an electric floor heating system is going to make that flooring a little bit more comfortable, a little bit more luxurious for a long time to come.

One of the really great benefits of floor heating is that you're not going to have forced air heat that's going to be blowing and moving air around the house. This is really great for people who suffer from allergies.

Or if you're like me where you have dogs that shed a lot and you get hair everywhere. If you're not gonna have air movement, you know, kind of blowing everything around, it's going to help cut down on dust, allergens, pollutants, and things like that in the home.

Depending or, right, say regardless of if you're going to be heating your wood floors. One thing to think about is always going to be the relative humidity and where they get into that in just a moment.

Yeah. There are some certain things that you are gonna plant this seed early because we're going to be talking about later. There are some things that you need to discuss with the people that are supplying your wood flooring. You're going to need to find out what is the relative humidity guidelines because the the wood has to have the same us, spread of relative humidity, whether it's in the winter when the air is probably going to be very dry in your house. And also in the summer when you're going to high humidity possibly. Also, you want to find out from the supplier is what's the maximum temperature that this would can heat up to That is very important.

We're, primarily talking about electric floor heating. That's what this webinar is about. But it's the same for hydronic. You know, hydronic is it's still heating the floor. So you're still going to want to know I'm answering it now for anonymous attendee, that, whether it's electric or water you need to know what, what what are those requirements? What's the max temperature that you can go to? What's a relative humidity.

Also for people that are doing nail down, how often do the nails have to be put in? What's the nail rate? Is it every three inches? Is it every eight inches?

Is it every twenty inches? They're going to have to tell you that too. So I'm planning to see we're gonna be talking about this later, but it's a very important to, to to talk about it and and talk about it multiple times because it's very, very important when it comes to hardwood floors. To do that.

And it's also the same with laminate and l v t too.

So what are some of the differences between electric and hydronic?

Besides all these pumps, all these pipes, all these, valves and stuff.

Yeah. That and that's really the main difference is that electric is you know, is going to be a lot simpler. It's gonna be simpler to install. It's going to be simpler to run.

It's maintenance free. So there's no pumps. There's no tubing. You don't need to worry about any kind of maintenance annually.

It's pretty much once it's in, it's in the floor. It's heating. It's good to go. Is also going to give you a lot more uniform heating than hydronic, is able to.

So with wood floors, you do wanna have a very consistent temperature. You don't wanna have hot and cold spots, like you'd be getting with hydronic. So electric tends to make it ideal or electric tends to be ideal for heating wood floors. Because there isn't going to be any, you know, colder areas, the further you get from the boiler, it's all going to be very, very consistent throughout floor.

Yeah. The one thing about hot water is as soon as it leaves the boiler, the temperature drops. And as it goes through the floor, it drops. So where it enters the room, It's going to be a higher temperature than where it exits because it's going to lose the heat to the floor.

So with electric, it's the same temperature at the beginning of the mat or the cable. As it is at the end. So you have even temperatures. You don't have to worry about installing in big loops and big, look like snail patterns.

Know, to try to mitigate that heat loss, hot water in cold water out type of thing. And also one of the main main differences between electric and hydronic is hydronic tends to overshoot the temperature and undershoot the temperature because it's designed to try to keep it at whatever your floor temperature you want. But when the boiler starts sending hot water through, it's going to actually get hotter.

And then as as it reaches the end, it's going to get cooler. So you can literally go maybe three or four or five degrees too hot. And then as it cools down to three or four or five degrees too cold. So you're you have a ten degree spread of temperature Instead of with electric, you have a one degree spread. So it's much better on your hardwood floors. There's much less expansion and contraction.

In the daily operation.

So that's just one of the, a couple of the good things about electric versus hydraulic when it comes to wood.

So, what are some things that we wanna watch out for when we are installing electric floor heating or any floor heating for that matter? But mostly electric. This is what this is aimed at.

Yeah. So one of the first things you wanna think about is which product you're going to be utilizing.

Tempstone products can be paired with almost any of our, any type of flooring, if you're going to be embedding it in a self leveling cement.

Something like an environment product, that's the picture on the bottom that silver roll, is designed to work more with floating floor. So that's gonna be great with engineered wood or laminate.

So one thing to keep in mind is how you'll be installing your floor so that you can pick the right type of, of heating product. And another thing to keep in mind is, the heat the location of the heating. You want to make that you're not going to be heating underneath furniture, like very low lying furniture. You don't wanna heat underneath any kind of flat bottomed, you know, cabinets bookshelves, anything like that, any kind of area rugs or floor coverings, you wanna try to heat around those areas and not beneath them. So there's some consideration to take into, when you're beginning to kind of plan out your system.

Yeah. When you're talking about wood floors, or anything like that. First of all, environment is not designed to be used with LVT because because LVT floats, everybody assumes that it's in Byron, It isn't only environment is to be used with floating floors like laminate engineered wood and carpet in the US, but not with LVT.

And also, the the thing is if you have if you're putting in this beautiful wood floor, you don't wanna be installing a bunch of rugs over the top of it. Because those rugs can trap heat into that area. So if you have this beautiful wood floor and in the center of it, you have an area rug And the edges of the room are are eighty two, eighty three degrees. The temperature under that area rug could be eighty five, eighty nine, ninety, whatever that is.

And that can affect the wood. It can also make the wood change color. Like, if you had a bean bag that you sat on and you put it in your living room and it stays in the same place for years and years and years, you come and take that bean bag away. You'll see that that area is probably darker once you remove the bean bag.

So you're putting in a nice wood floor, a heated wood floor. The last thing you wanna do is put in a bunch of carpeting, I mean, a bunch of rugs, area rugs like that. That will trap the heat. And if those rugs stay in the same place for a long time, you do have the chance of changing the color of the wood there when you remove it.

So, if you have to put a rug down, put something down that has a low r value, never put down a rug that has a rubber, I mean, a a foam rubber backing because foam is an insulator and that can get really hot under there. But those are just some general things when you're using any wood heating or any any any heating electric that we're talking about here today, can affect the wood in different places with different coverages. So I'd like to get that out of the way too. So tell us about relative humidity.

Yeah. So relative humidity is, I think it's often considered a little bit confusing, and it really isn't that confusing at all. It's really the humidity in the space. The definition is the absolute available water in a volume of air at a given temperature and pressure divided by the amount of the same space could theoretically hold. So that's the real technical definition of relative humidity.

But generally speaking, we'll call it humidity. And you'll wanna keep your hardwood or laminate floor once it's installed between, or I should say, at any point during the installation. So even before, during the installation itself, you want it between thirty eight and forty two percent humidity. So you don't wanna be, installing it when it's really humid or really dry. You do want it to be a pretty good middle ground there with thirty eight to forty two percent.

And with any kind of wood floor, heated or not, you also wanna plan for both a humidification and a dehumidification system so that you can ensure that that humidity stays relatively steady throughout, the year. Throughout the day. And this is especially important if you're going to have, some temperature fluctuations significantly, between the daytime and the nighttime.

Right. And keep in mind what we put here when it comes to wood, you always have to ask your wood manufacturer what their recommendation is. They may say between forty and sixty. We're just putting the number down here with the generality, thirty eight to forty two percent.

It could be more. It could be higher. It could be less depending on the people or the brand of wood flooring that you put in and what their recommendations are. But the main thing to take away from this is wood will react differently when it's very humid and it will react differently when it's really dry.

And the idea is to keep the humidification relatively get it, relatively even. So you don't have expansion and contraction because, you know, a lot of people will put this in the them in into their their, their home. And they go, well, I've got a lot of my my wood is really gapping, and it only happens because it's it's being heated. Right?

And the answer to that is no. It's not because it's being heated. It's because the relative humidity in that space is either too much or too little And that's what causes the gapping. The gapping is when the wood actually shrinks because it gets dry.

So that's what happens when you can put, when you when you have to worry about humidity is the is the eight hundred pound gorilla when it comes to installing floor heating. Because it's the most important thing. The heat of secondary, the relative humidity in that space is the most important.

So what about, conditioning the floor material?

Yeah. So whatever kind of flooring you're putting down, whether you're doing hardwood or laminate, you wanna make sure that you are acclimating those materials to the room that they're going to be installed in while before the installation actually starts and again, we can give you some general guidelines, but we do always recommend make sure that you are checking with the flooring manufacturer for their recommended times, for acclamation.

You also wanna make sure that you're keeping track of the moisture content of the flooring itself to know when it's ready to begin the install.

Exactly. Because you don't wanna store all this stuff. Okay. We're gonna put this in tomorrow or next week.

We're gonna store it out in this barn for the next seven days. And we're just gonna bring it in in call it. Well, the odds are that the the wood is full of humidity. So it's really, really, you know, it's wide for lack of a better term.

And then when you go to you you go to put it in and it fits nice and nice and close together, well, after a while, when that temper when the humidity in that room drops, those pieces of wood are going to gap because it was put in too wet. So it was expanded. And then as it dries up, the gaps So that's that's what you wanna look out for. That's what we mean by conditioning the product before you put it in.

So let's talk about sub floor preparation because we had a question from Gary, ahead of time asking about sub floor prep. So let's go ahead and knock that one out of the park.

Yeah. So one of the first things you'll be doing during your installation process is the subfloor prep. It is really important so one of the first things is chucking the moisture levels of the subfloor, especially if you're doing a plywood subfloor.

Before ever beginning the installation.

If you're going to be installing over a concrete slab, you do wanna make sure or I should be saying if you're going to be installing with, self leveling cement, you do wanna make sure that that's going to be cured completely before doing your installation.

If you're going over a, concrete slab itself, or a plywood subfloor, you do wanna make sure that everything is clean that everything is completely leveled and degreased so that it's a good starting surface for your heating product.

If you're going to be putting down any underlayments, so something like a, insulating underlayment going over a concrete slab, or if you're going to be putting down, any kind of, sleepers, things like that, you do wanna make sure that all of that gets installed.


So it's very, very important also to keep that subfloor clean. It's very it it makes it much more difficult to install if the floor is full of dust.

And also if you're gonna use self leveling, you have to make sure you get the right primer that you're going to use. You need to plug any holes in the subfloor if you're using primer. Because otherwise it'll either go down your walls or it'll go down a hole. If you look at the bottom of this picture right here at the bottom is a piece of tape, that we used to plug this hole in this room because we were getting ready to put self leveling on it.

And also, we put a a bead of of clock around the edge of the room to keep the water from going down or the self leveling, which is in effect just really thick water going down the walls into the room, below it. So you really, really wanna watch out for that. Also, when when you're working, another question you're going to want to ask is where am I putting this product? Is it going in the basement?

Is it going on the first floor or the second floor? Because some woods, some flooring products don't, don't want you to install a below grade, which means if you have a basement, some some products aren't even designed to go into a basin because it's below grade. So you need to find out usually, engineered wood. Remember we're speaking in generalities here.

We do not make wood flooring. So I can't tell you everything about that. But, if if you're interested in putting wood in a basement, a lot of engineered wood can go in the basement. I shouldn't say a lot, but there are some that can go in a basement below grade.

So these are the kind of questions that you need to ask. Ahead of time so you're getting the right product in the right place.

So let's talk about installing hardwood. So how would we do that? And with what?

Yeah. So you're probably gonna be using our temp zone, products, whether that's our temp zone cable or our temp zone flex roll. When you're heating underneath hardwood.

So it generally will be determined by the type of installation you'll be doing. If you're going to be doing a glue down install, with self leveling concrete over the top of the heating. You'll probably wanna use our tempso and flex roll. It's gonna make the installation very quick and easy If you're doing a sleeper installation with nailed down hardwood, you'll probably wanna use our cable.

This can be they can both kind of be used interchangeably but there's definite benefits to one over the other, especially with, like, cable and sleepers. It's gonna make it a lot easier to heat it with cable than with the rolls. So it's really going to the first thing you'll wanna tell us is the type of hardwood you're using. How you're planning to install it so that we can make sure we're helping you get the right product.

Exactly. And the direction that you need to run because if you if you, like, if you have a a fireplace over here and a kitchen over here, do you want the wood to run this way, or do you want the the wood to run that way because the sleeper has to be perpendicular for it to to nail into. So we need to know which direction that wood's going so we can set the sleepers up and the exact perpendicular field to make sure you have something to nail down into at the the width that the manufacturer requires.

So what kind, what types of hardwood floors are there?

Yeah. So there's two kind of main pipes. There's solid wood and there's engineered hardwood.

And the most important factor when it comes to types of hardwood flooring is the stability of the floor. The, the species of wood, the cut of the wood and the width of the planks.

So there's a lot to consider one of the first things, like I said, is picking engineered wood versus solid wood. Engineered wood is or engineered hardwood. Is designed to be more resistant to the swelling and warping, that can occur with solid hardwood. It's going to it's obviously in the name. It's engineered to kind of help with those problems.

And you'll want to, again, make sure that you're determining how we will be installing this. If you're going to be doing a nail down application glued down application.

Yeah. The reason why engineered wood is more stable is because it has different layers, different plies. And usually the plies are, perpendicular to each other. So with hardwood, the grain runs all one direction. But with with engineered, the grain runs opposite directions, and that's what keeps it from expanding in one direction. That's what keeps it tighter together. So that's why engineered hardwood is sometimes allowed below grade or in places where regular hardwood may not be allowed.

So let's talk about the species of the wood.

So the species listed on the right are going to work best with in floor radiant heating. The USDA Forest actually made a list of the most stable to lease stable species of wood. So Mesquite is definitely the most stable down to American beach, which can be the least stable.

So you do wanna take into consideration the species of the wood that you'll be utilizing if you're going to be wanting to you're going to want to be heating underneath it.

Exactly. Now there the you may not be able to find this type of flooring just because it says mesquite doesn't mean that you have mesquite flooring. And I I would like to be interested in the smell of that. I thought I might like that in my house, but would make me want to barbecue all the time.

But anyway, that's the different kind of species of wood. The the main thing is if you're thinking about putting a beach floor in, you might wanna choose a different product because beach is very unstable. And, different woods can be dimensionally more stable or less stable just depending on the way they're cut. So what Does this graphic show us?

Yeah. So this is some of the different ways that wood can be cut into flooring.

And one of the best ways to or one of the, I should say recommended products or cuts is quarter sawn or riffs sawn. So you've tried we'd usually recommend trying to avoid plain sawn wood, especially when you're going to be heating it.

If you're going to be doing, narrower planks, those are going to be much more stable than a really wide plank So if you're going to be heating again, we usually would recommend, four inches or less in width before the planks themselves.

And the last thing to consider is that doubled edges are going to usually be a really great idea when you're heating flooring so that you can again have some more stability.

And beveled edges are good too if you're worried about shrinkage or expansion in your floor because the beveled edge tends to hide in the capping. Because it's already, not flat. You don't have a two ends, two flat sides of budding each other. You have an indentation a butting up to a different indentation.

So it makes any gapping less visible. So beveled edges are really, really great, especially when it comes to floor eating. Or if you say, you know, my humidity sys my humidifying system is not the best in this house, then you might want to, you know, definitely think about beveled edges too. So, when you're heating from under the floor, you don't want to install something that's that got a really high r value above it.

Right? You want the heat to be able to get through that flooring. And if you have a really high r value product that's going to hit the flooring and it's gonna go back down. So Tell us about this slide right here.

Yeah. So this is a really good, slide kind of showing the r value of different types of wood. So now we talked about, the stability of the wood. Now we're kind of talking about the r value, or you can kind of think of it more as what or how much heat it allows to transfer versus how much heat let's say you get stuck, or kind of gets trapped into that space. So the more higher the r value the less heat transfer you're going to get. It'll take much more energy to get the room to the same temperature that it would take to get to be heating a lower r value flooring. So you do wanna look for a wood floor with a lower r value, and you can see hear the different types and kind of, you know, their general r values.

Scott, can you kind of tell us a little bit about the r values between or the differences between, like, tile laminate and wood?


Obviously, you take a look at just just look at ash. Three quarter inch ash has got almost one, an r value of one. And then look directly to the right of it where tile is. It's got an r value of point two five.

So it's got a quarter of the r value that the wood does. So, one of the other benefits of tile is that There are no temperature limitations. Remember at the beginning, we talked about when you're thinking about getting your wood floor, Ask the manufacturer, what's the maximum temperature? Is it eighty two?

Is it eighty three? Is it eighty four? Is it eighty? What is that number? Because tile doesn't have a limit.

So you could have the floor reach a hundred degrees and it's not going to affect the tile. However, if you do it with the ash, it can get too hot. And that's why if you're thinking and that kind of that kind of goes along with the question we got from, mevin in Canada.

He's thinking about doing an engineered Rosewood parquet flooring in a four season sunroom.

Any suggestions for the voltage of one twenty versus two forty? Well, the voltage, I'm gonna get this out of the way right now. Two forty is no better than one twenty. It doesn't heat warmer.

It doesn't heat faster. It has no benefits other than the fact that you can heat, on one control. One control can handle fifteen amps. That's about a hundred and twenty square feet at fifteen watts per square feet per square foot.

If you go to two forty, it takes you up to two hundred and forty square feet. Can be heated with one control. So if you have a space that's between a hundred like, it's like a hundred and thirty square feet. You would naturally want to go to two forty because it's going to allow you to use one control.

If it's a hundred and ten square feet, You wanna use one twenty because that'll let you use one breaker space in your breaker box as opposed to two forty, which requires two. So there really is no benefit to go. I got a bunch of balloons. I said something special.

Alright. Cool.

So, yeah, that's the difference between one twenty and two forty. Now the reason why I wanted to talk about Mevin's question is that If you have a room that's difficult to heat like a four seasons room, four seasons rooms normally have a bunch of windows. It has a bunch of heat loss. Exterior wall. They're all three usually three exterior walls filled with glass. Okay. That's what a lot of them are.

That has a lot of heat loss. The heat loss come from your floor goes into the air and then it goes out the window.

And results in that space not being heated as well. So if you're if it were me and I was putting in a four season sunroom, If I had to choose between a product that has an r value of point nine with a maximum temperature limit of, say, eighty two, or if I could use tile, which has no tie no no limit, and has an r value of point two five Which do you think of those two is going to heat the space better?

It's going to be the tile. The tile can get hotter. You don't have to worry about it overheating, and it's going to transfer more heat to the space.

To help battle the the the the heat loss in that room going because of the windows, skylights, sometimes a, a fireplace. Those are all heat loss issues. So what you're going to wanna use is you're not going to use something that's limited.

And you're not going to use something that, has a higher r value that traps more heat. So I hope that's something that we It's not really on a slide here, but it's really really important because we get this question all the time. Right? And we always want people to be happy.

So the wood floor is going to look fantastic, but it's only going to be able to get so warm, and it's going to have a higher hour value you're if you're willing to do that trade off with a beauty versus performance, then you're going to choose wood. If you say I want this room to be as warm as I can possibly get it, I'm going to use tile. And that's just something to think about. But also if you're going to be thinking about that three season room or whatever it is, four three seasons or four seasons, four seasons.

If you you're going to want to make sure that that that you can get as much heat into that space as you can. Also as much humidity into that space as you can. Because it's going to be much more susceptible to the to the temperatures outside. Is there hot air coming in there?

So those are some of the things that you wanna think about. We try to educate that's what these things are for, right, to talk about these things because these are the questions that we get on the phone all the time. So that's that's what I get from this slide. I I understand which one transfers heat better.

I understand which ones are limited, which which products aren't limited. And that's important to think about in your space.

So what are some installation tips?

One of the big ones is that you do not want to be running your heating system, during the installation process, especially if you're going to be using glue down flooring. The heat can affect the adhesive and make it cure too quickly, so you do wanna make sure that that stays off until the flooring is installed.

You do also want to if you're gonna be doing any top coats on that wood floor, make sure that that's done as soon as possible after installation.

So that, again, you're not going to be running the system while putting down any top coats.

And we do also recommend that you are verifying the moisture content again before during and after the installation, generally seven point five percent is a good target. Obviously, this will vary depending on the flooring and the region. But seven point five percent is kind of a good rule of thumb. And again, that humidity level, you would like it to be at thirty eight to forty two percent.

Or whatever the manufacturer So let's take a look at this cross section. This looks like it's nailed down. So what does that mean to us when we install?

Yeah. So when you're doing a nail down flooring or hardwood flooring, you wanna make sure that you are putting down sleepers to nail into, and then you're going to put self leveling cement in between those sleepers to embed the heating. So, generally, again, you can use Temestone maps with this kind of application, it usually is a bit harder. We usually recommend using our temp zone cable with our fixing strips. So you can kind of see actually on the drawing, the fixing ups get attached to the plywood subfloor. The cable is run-in a serpentine pattern back and forth in those and hooking into those strips. And then you'll have, it run-in between those sleepers, before putting down yourself leveling and your hardwood.

It's very important that the self leveling gets to the exact same height as the sleepers because the sleepers all there therefore is for you to nail the product down into.

The last thing you wanna do is to put self leveling cement only half of the height because then you have a pocket of air between the self leveling and the wood flooring. And air is a very good insulator.

So you're going to be creating a pocket of hot air that's not going to allow the heat. Up to the wood. You want the wood to be in touch with that heated self leveling. And the only way to do that is to make sure it's the same height as the self leveling cement.

Oops. I went too far.

So let's talk about the sleepers. We kind of mentioned it before. Right? They have to go we have to know which way the wood goes so the sleepers can go perpendicular to it.

Yeah. And the spacing of that is going to be determined by the nailing spacing for that flooring. So again, talking to the manufacturer is going to be, your best bet here to make sure that you know what the nail rate will be and you do want to make sure that you're telling us exactly, how the floor will be run so that we can, draw you a picture plan, a layout plan, with the sleepers running in the correct direction.

So generally speaking, you do want to lay those sleepers with about a quarter inch gap at the end of each of the runs to allow for the cable to pass through without getting caught or, you know, having any kind of blockage in the area. This way you can run the cable very easily.

And, a perimeter around the room of sleepers will actually ensure that there's a very even surface throughout the floor. If you're not gonna have any, like, higher or lower spots.

And the last thing, of course, is that you do want your sleepers to be the same thickness as a self leveling. As Scott said, you don't want any kind of air pockets so in this case, they used three eighths of an inch of self leveling concrete. So they used three eighths inches of sleeper.

And if we take a look at this picture, you can see right now we haven't, put down the the masking tape. But what masking tape is used here is to keep These cables if you're using self leveling are going to want to rise to the stop. They're going to want to float to the top of the self leveling. I guarantee it.

It happens all the time. It's going to want self leveling is very, very dense. Anything that's not as dense as it will try to float. And if you don't put masking tape every couple of feet, every two to three feet, that cable's just gonna go.

Whoop. And now you're going to actually be putting your pieces would on the loops that have floated to the top, which is not what you want. So that's a very bad situation to be in. So you want to put tape every two to three feet to hold the cable down because that way it'll keep it at the bottom of the pore and not have it come up on the flow.

And then, try to flow to the top. Very, very important to do that because you're gonna take a look at this plan and you can take a look at this plan and see that we're going to need to buy some inexpensive tape. You don't need to go out and buy high temperature tape. You don't need to spend any money on on on this kind of tape.

It's just three quarter inch wide, cheap as you can get and just run it in between the sleepers every two to three feet. And that's going to hold the cables down. Hold the cables down. Hold the cables down.

And every two or three feet, if you do that, you should have no problems at all. So tell us about this plan. What is this plan called? What does it do?

Yeah. So this is what I kind of touched on very briefly earlier. This is one of our smart plans. It's a layout plan that will, draw up for you based on the layout of your space. So these are complimentary. We can usually get these turned around within a business day. So we always always recommend getting a layout plan from us so that have a really good game plan going into your installation.

So you can see it'll tell you exactly, where to put the fixing strips, where to put the sleepers, And if you look at that, red dot, I would say, I don't know if you can see my mouse. There you go. If you look at that red dot, that's actually the halfway mark for the cable. That's going to be marked on the cable itself in real life, not just on the drawing.

It's, I believe, a white dot on the red cable when it's in real life. Is the red dot on the drawing. And, this way you know that you are running the, or doing the correct spacing. You can actually see on the drawing we have it labeled each run is spaced at three inches.

So this way, you know that you are, if you get to the center of the room where that red dot is on the picture and you have it lined up with the white mark on the cable, you're good to go. If it's going if that white mark is appearing elsewhere in the room. You know that your spacing or your runs are a little bit wonky, and you'll probably want to take it up and relay out the cable.

Yeah. If you don't pay real close attention, you can make this mistake very easily. And the reason why I bring this up is if you look here along the left side, This red line here is where the fixing strip is. That's what the cable goes around in a serpentine manner. If you look here in green, it says one foot, one and three quarter inches, that's the distance from the wall to the strip. If you put the strip right up against the wall, you're going to run out of cable.

If you put the strip over here into the middle of the room, you're going to have too much cable. And that's what this red dot is for. But each one of these, if you look here, one foot, one and three quarter inches from this wall, over here, it's gonna be one foot, three quarter inches from this wall. Over here, you've got, eleven and a quarter inches Okay.

Six and a quarter inches. It's telling you where the cable is from the wall and where the straps are. The cable fixing strips are from the wall itself. If you don't pay any attention to this, you're going to get them too close together, which means you're gonna have extra cable or you're gonna get them too far apart, which means you're not going to have enough cable.

But it's much better to find that out at the halfway mark than it is to get all the way to the end and go, what do I do with this extra sixty feet of cable I have? Because you can't cut the cable. You can never ever cut the heating cable. So you can't just go, okay, just lop it off there and we'll finish her up.

Nope. You've just ruined the system. You cannot heat the cating heating cable.

So that's why it's so important to follow this plan. And it'll tell you how far to space it. It tells you where to start it with the triangle. Tells you where to end it with the with the square.

And, you can see the blue dotted lines in here. That's the sleeper. And we put the sleepers there based on what the manufacturer required for the nail rate. So that's the smart plan here.

So let's talk about the self leveling cement.

Yeah. So one of the first things, that I noticed in this picture is that self leveling cement is not completely up the line of the sleepers. Correct, Scott?


So definitely wanna make sure that you are if you're in this situation, pouring a little bit more self leveling so that it is completely even with those slip sleepers. I almost said slippers. That would not be it. With those sleepers.

And again, when you begin pouring out that self leveling, make sure that those cables are floating up, make sure that you have taped them down really well. And then before you begin installing the flooring, once that self leveling has been all poured out and everything's good on that front. Make sure that it is completely dry before doing any kind of flooring installation.

Yeah. In fact, I took this picture and the and the the self leveling people had to come back the next day and do a a a real thin skin coat over the top to get it all at the same height. So, that's that's what's going on here. That's why I love this picture because it shows after day one. Day two is when they came and they got it the correct height because we knew that could create a problem with trapped hot air. So, now installing the nail down hardwood, what's next?

Yeah. So, again, you'll be running the flooring perpendicular.

I could talk. I cannot say that word perpendicular to the sleepers.

So be very careful when you're nailing into the floor. You wanna make sure you are only nailing into those sleepers that there's not a chance of the nail hitting any of the heating wires. Since again, that would damage it. So you wanna make sure that you are only nailing into those sleepers and that any gaps in the floor between, flooring planks are, filled in with putty and sanded before you actually seal the floor. So you want it to be nice, even, smooth, all ready to go.

So let's take a look at this cross section. This is for a glue down situation. So tell us what what we see here.

Yeah. So since there's no nailing involved in a blue down application, you don't need to worry about the sleepers, which makes the installation, a little bit simpler. You can do the temp zone flex role as shown here. You also can use the temp zone cables, for an application like this. They tend to be, a little bit more economical, but they also take a lot more labor to install, a lot more time. So it kind of comes down to, you know, what is more important in your project, budget, timing, things like that.

For now, we're probably just going to talk about the Temestone flexor roles for an application like this. So it can lay out directly on the wood subfloor. And then, again, you'll lay out your self leveling cement. And then once that has dried, you'll down your flooring adhesive and the glue down wood flooring right on top.

One thing that's missing from this drawing is if you take a look, there's no membrane here. You don't need to buy an uncoupling membrane when you're not putting tile on the top. So, certain companies, the only way to install their product is with a membrane.

That membrane, any money you spend on a membrane with this particular installation is wasted money. You don't need a membrane here. All you need is a heating cable, buried in self leveling cement. And that's it.

That's the simple you're gonna save hundreds of dollars doing it this way as opposed to using a membrane that you don't even need to install your cable. So there's, we have a lot of diff we've been in this business for a long time. And there are a lot of different ways to heat different things, not just one way. So this is the most cost effective way.

This is the second most cost effective way. The first most, the most economical way to to install this would be to use a cable as you said. But the the mesh is easier to is easy to cut and turn and it lays out nice and quickly like it shows right here. So this is a text, text temp zone flex roll And when they buy this, does it come pre cut like this with the different panel sizes?

No. So when you actually purchase it, it'll come as just a large role, just one role. And what we'll do is, again, we can give you a layout plan, a smart plan showing exactly how you'll be cutting and turning that to fit into that space. So we'll tell you exactly, you know, how long each of those sections needs to be before you cut and turn it. So that you have a really good game plan going into the install.

Yeah. The installation plan will tell you three point three, you know, three three feet, three inches. You turn it this way. Three feet, nine inches.

You turn it that way. So it it it's very very easy to follow. If you take a look at this picture, you can see the product is is down, cable side down. We get that question all the time.

Do I put the MAC So the cable's facing up or is the cable facing down? Well, you want the cable facing down because if you did it the other way around, the loops on the end of the cable would want to, float in self leveling. So you have a bunch of loops that are sticking up above the self leveling.

This way what you can do then is you put it able side down. You can staple into the mesh. You'd never ever staple over the wire. If you staple a wire, you're going to ruin it.

I don't care what kind of staple you use. So you're going to either use a staple to hold this mesh down to the wood, or you're going to use hot glue to hold the whole thing down. Hot glue is great because you put it every six six to eight inches haphazardly, on the mat, and that's going to keep it from floating too. So it's capturing the mat, and the mat's not going to allow the cables to float up.

So no matter what product you're using, cable or mat or or mesh or walls, you have to keep the product from floating to the top. Because it will if you're using self leveling. So that's what a temp temps own flex roll looks like. The mesh is cut and turned, but you never ever cut the heating wire.

And here you can see the floor sensor comes into an open loop. It doesn't cause this little black wire here. The black wire doesn't go in and go over a loop. It goes into an open loop.

If you want to install a spare, an extra sensor, you can put the other sensor either right next to this one or you can run it into the next open loop.

So that's something that you want to keep in keep in mind. All of this is because of self leveling cement and, tell us about this step.

Yeah. So essentially what you're doing here is you're basically creating a heated subfloor to put your flooring on top of. So once you have your heating laid out and securely well to the subfloor, then you'll lay out that self leveling cement. You'll wanna talk to your manufacturer about how thick they want that to be or how far away from the heating they want their product. A good rule of thumb is about three eighths of an inch of self leveling cement to make sure that the entire heating system is fully embedded.

Make sure before you begin any kind of flooring in solution that that self leveling cement is completely dry.

Yeah. Some some, like, if you look on the, the instructions for some of these things, electric floor heating is okay. It must be, separated by a half inch. The heat source must be a half inch away from the heated surface. So that's where you use a half inch of self leveling. Three eights half inch. It's all the same.

Pretty much the same. So that's what you wanna do to get your distance requirement.


So talk about the adhesive here.

Yeah. So, again, following the manufacturer's instructions, I know we sound like a broken record, but definitely is important.

You do want to, follow any of their instructions or recommendations when laying out your adhesive. And you wanna make sure that you're working in sections. This is not something that you want to lay adhesive out through the entire space and then come back in and put your flooring down. Make sure that you're installing a few rows of flooring at one time. And you also wanna make sure that any adhesive that can, be coming from the joints on the flooring surface is wiped away so that you're not gonna have any leftover adhesive kind of peeking through.

And sometimes when you do a nail down, installation, you're actually gluing the last few runs of of of wood anyway because there's you can't get a nailer down in there. So either one or two of the last runs, sometimes are glued down. And that's what you'd be doing here. That's why the self leveling is so important to give you a flat surface you're you're not going to be able to get, thin set.

People say, how about if I just use thin set because it costs less? You're never going to get the thin set completely flat. And you'll you'll not like it. I can tell you that right now.

I've been out to people's houses that, have tried to use, thin set and it just it sounds hollow because they didn't get it completely flat. So sometimes you step on it, it sounds okay. Other times it sounds like you're stepping on a hollow spot, and that's because you just can't get the thin set, as flat as it needs to be like self leveling. And they'll ask, well, how about if I just really thin out the thinset, put more water in it?

That's the last thing you wanna do because you need to mix thinset to the correct to the instructions. You can't just go, I'm gonna add an extra gallon of water, and then I'll make a slurry.

No. You don't wanna do that either. You you have to follow the instructions because that's how the the system's supposed to be installed.

And it the reason I bring that up is because the next thing is floating wood floors and you can't put a floating wood floor on peaks and valleys. It needs to be flat. You can't have it touching in one spot and hollow on each side other than that. So that's why it's so important. But we're going to be talking about a different product now. So let's talk about floor heating for floating wood floors.

Yeah. So this is where Enviren comes in. So Enviren is a similar product temps zone in that it is a cut and turn role.

And it's going to be probably the fastest electric floor heating system to install. It's super quick and super easy. The rolls are one-sided. You can actually see the way that it's laid out right now would be incorrect, where it's kinda showing you in the picture how the cables look. So you do wanna place it with the cable side down. And the roll side up. And then again, you'll be cutting and turning it based on the smart plan to fit into your space.

And this is really great for, lots of floating floors, laminate, floating engineered wood. But I think we touched on it much earlier today, Scott, that you don't want to use this for LVT.

Yes, LVT is considered usually a floating floor. But that's something that you'll want to, avoid putting over in Byron.

Yeah. Because of, vinyl has a property that's called Drape. Which means it starts to drape itself over whatever under it. So if you were to put this product on top, if you put LBT on top of this, in a year or eighteen months or two years or whatever it is, you'll start seeing the lines of the product actually working their way through to the top of the the vinyl because it drapes over it.

That's what drape is. It it conforms to whatever it's going over. So you'll actually see little ridges in the top of the l v t, and that's the last thing you wanna use. And also LVT a lot of times says the temp the the the heating product needs to be at least a half an inch away from the flooring surface, which means embedding it in self leveling.

So that's that's why we bring this up because we get this question every day. Do we not?

At least, if not more.

So let's talk about laminate and engineered.

Yeah. So when you're going to be doing a laminate or an engineered wood flooring, you will want an underlayment before you put down your heat. So this is because the environment needs a soft surface below it. You don't want it trapped between, the subfloor and the flooring itself. That's going to kind of sandwich it, and it can damage the heating. You do wanna make sure that you're putting the soft surface down, your environment then on top of it, and then the flooring over there so that there is a little bit of give for that environment.

So again, make sure that you're installing it between the flooring and your underlayment.

And also if you're going to be doing, laminate or usually most engineered woods. You do also wanna follow all acclimation requirements from your manufacturer. So, again, we'll say it one more time, probably say at work today, talk to your manufacturer.

Max temperature too. You know, we we worry about max temperature, relative humidity. All the same with laminate and engineered wood flooring and laminate. Some a lot of laminate, if they get if it gets really dry, they'll gap and and laminate is not real attractive when it gaps because it's hard to get it to back together. So that's something that you want to want to look out for. So also people, ask a lot is, one of the main things you need to worry about when it comes to laminate or engineered wood flooring is what's the r value?

Of that. Because you if you have a laminate floor that's over r, like, a one point two, and then you have another laminate, which is point eight, you're going to want the point eight, not the one point two, because you want the lower r value to allow the heat to go out of So let's talk about the layers right here and we can see what we're talking about.

Yeah. So like I said, you wouldn't wanna put that environment directly on this plywood floor. You do want something cushioning it. So that's where our thermal sheet comes in. We're gonna go over the thermal sheet a little bit, in just another moment. It is a synthetic cork. So it's going to give it that protective, or that protection from the sub floor, your layout, your heating And then again, you'll put your engineered wood flooring floating over the top of that.

Yeah. So, the thing is with this thermal sheet, when you have a floating application, is that the thermal sheets can just be laid out on the subfloor. It doesn't need to be glued down. The thing with environment, with a floating installation, is nothing ever glues to the environment, and the environment never glues to anything.

So it's it's able to float. It's able to move around. That's why you have to have a soft surface on the bottom because if it if it were a hard surface and a hard surface as the as the floor moves over the subfloor, it just it acts like sandpaper, and it'll eventually just sand its way through the outer layers of the gable. That's why the cable needs to be able to sit and sink down into that.

So it doesn't do that. That it it holds it in place So it doesn't act like a two pieces of sandpaper against the against each other. So environment never clues to anything, and nothing ever clues to environment. Very important to keep that in mind.

So let's talk about this underlayment.

Yeah. So like I said, it's a synthetic cork. So it's a really great product for areas that are prone to really high humidity or moisture. Because it is synthetic, it's not going to promote any mold or mold growth.

Mold and mildew need something natural to eat to kind of grow and adding a fully synthetic underlayment is going to help prevent of that mold growth. And it also is a really great thermal break for heating beneath, or I should say heating over a concrete slab. Concrete tends to act as a heat sink. So that huge concrete slab that your house is built on is going to want to absorb that heat before it lets it be in rising, how you normally would think of heat, feeling.

So you wanna make sure that you are putting your thermal sheet down, whether you're doing a, a floating floor and you're using environ as a cushion or if you're doing, most types of flooring over a concrete slab, to ensure that you're going to have that insulation factor.

Yeah. Very, very important that, when you're doing a tile install that it is attached, to the subfloor with thinset. You don't need to buy a special glue or anything. Just use modified thinset, the same stuff you're going to use to set the tile. You're gonna use that to attach to the subfloor. So that's a very, very important that it that underlayment is very, very important part of this installation.

So let's talk about the floor sensor. The the good thing about electric floor heating is it's controlled with a thermostat that keeps track of the floor temperature.

Ideally, whenever you're doing an installation like this with a temperature requirement, like, I can only go two eighty two degrees. I can only go two eighty four degrees. It's not eighty two eighty four temperature of the air. It's eighty two to eighty four the temperature of the wood.

And to know the temperature of the wood, you have to have the sensor at the wood level, not in a wall unit, which is a lot what a a lot of hydronic controls are. They're just in an ambient temperature. Oh, we need to raise the temperature of the room. Turn up the hot water, make it hotter, make it turn on longer.

Well, that you can't regulate the four temperature then. To regulate the four temperature, you have to have a four sensor. What are the things you need to look out for with the floor sensor?

Yeah. So you wanna make sure that you're placing it in the right, position before you actually, even worry about, you know, the floor sensor being run back to the thermostat. You want it to be at least six to eight inches into what we say, we would say into an open loop. So basically, you never want it touching or crossing over a heating wire or a heating cable.

You want it to be in between two of them, not ever, you know, too close or very close to one, not the other, try to make it as even as possible. It also does not need to go, into the center of the room. That is a kind of common misconception. I see people ask a lot It doesn't need to be in the very center of the room to get accurate readings.

Again, it just needs to be six to eight inches into the heated space.

So you wanna make sure also when you're thinking about the position of that floor sensor, make sure you're not putting it where the sun will be hitting the floor at any point during the day. If the sun is hitting that thermostat or that floor sensor rather, it's gonna tell the thermostat that the floor is incredibly warm and to turn it down. So and, obviously, if the sun's only hitting in a small section or it's only hitting in that area for a very short period of time, it's not gonna get the most accurate readings. So again, kind of good rules of thumb, make sure it's never touching a heating wire that it's run-in a separate conduit from the heating and that it's not going to be somewhere where the sun's going to be directly hitting it.

And also a place where you're not going to have a a rug because the rug is going to trap heat. Also a dog bed is going to trap heat, a a floor runner from one room into the other. If that sensor's under there, It'll think it's hot. The restroom will be cold.

It'll be hot under there. So that's one of the things you need to think about. For people that haven't been to one of our webinars before. It's very important for me to share with you at this point, exactly how our heating wires work because you can see the heating wires here.

And you can see that the green wire there in the middle, that is the temp zone product, and those wires are three inches apart. The reason why they're three inches apart is because the heat only travels laterally away from the cable about an inch and a half in all directions. Up above and around inch and a half. So that's why the wires are three inches apart because inch and a half from this wire inch and a half from this wire gives you a nice smooth heating sense of that space.

And that's why you're not going to root especially with the wood floor That's why you're not going to run just a a one and a half foot wide heated section and expect the whole floor to heat up. That's a very common misconception for people that have never been to one of our webinars that have never done floor heat. They'll just say put it in the center of the room and it'll spread out. It won't.

He'd only travels an inch and a half to each side or maybe two at the most bleeding through. So you that's why you can't put it in one section. You have to heat the whole floor because that's the only way to get the whole floor to heat. So very, very important.

If you're joining us for the first time, wanted to get that across. If you've been here, you'd talk you know, we talk about it all the time, but I I would be remiss if I didn't bring it up for for newcomers.

Yeah. Absolutely. And then what are the last steps is going to be?

Oh, oh, I'm sorry. Before before I lose my train of thought, a lot of the products now are coming with an extra floor sensor with a floor center attached to the to the cable or a floor sensor will be attached to the green mesh or or whatever. That is a second sensor because the other sensor is actually always in the thermostat box. So you're going to have the thermostat sensor in the thermostat box and you're going to have one attached to the heating product.

Which may mean if you're doing a really large space and you have three cables that you've purchased, there'll be a sensor attached to each one of those, and there'll also be a sensor in the thermostat box. The reason why we do that is because people invariably forget to look in the thermostat box, get the sensor out and put it in the floor. They will put the floor in then go, okay, it's time to install the thermostat. I take it out.

What's this black coil? What's this black wire here? That's the sensor that needs to go in the floor. So to get around that, we're now attaching it to each heating product.

So what that means is You may have three or four sensors for that one space. Only one can be attached at a time. You can't install all three and then run all three up to the back of the thermostat and then attach all three to the thermostat. Your floor won't work.

You can put one or two or three or however many you want in and run the wires up to the thermostat, never in the same conduit as a non heating lead. But you run them up to the back of the thermostat and you leave the one attached and the other ones coiled up in the back and you can use them as spares. So that whenever goes bad, you can then hook the other one up, but never ever attach more than one sensor to the thermostat at a time. Because now we're installing the thermostat.

So tell us about that.

Yeah. So, thermostats are going to have for protection.

Or floor maximum temperatures to, really meet those manufacturer temperature limitations. So like we said, you do wanna talk to the floor manufacturer about not only their maximum temperature, but any kind of, concerns they would have with setback temperature.

So that means, you wanna make sure that you are aware of any maximum temperature that the flooring should not be getting over. So generally, it's usually about eighty degrees.

You can use our default floor temperature of eighty two degrees maximum on the thermostat, or you can set your own custom maximum temperature.

This is gonna be utilizing the floor sensor, so not the ambient temperature. Like you had kind of mentioned earlier, Scott, This is not taking a reading of the, air temperature of the room. It's actually going to be utilizing that floor sensor. To ensure that that flooring is not getting to a, a temperature it's not supposed to be at. You also wanna make sure that you're talking to the manufacturer about any kind of setback temperature, requirements or concerns.

Scott, can you kind of tell us a little bit about that You need more of an explanation than that.

It will what that means is is a lot of times, a of a hardwood floor, the manufacturer will say, This is okay to use with with, with radiant floor heating, but the temperature must be maintained within two to three degrees per day. Which means you can't set it back. With tile, you can set it to be eighty six degrees during the day or when you're home and then down to seventy when you're not home. That's a setback temperature. And the only way to do that is with this programmable thermostat because it allows you to set higher and lower at different times. Hardwood.

A lot of times, in fact, most of the time, they say no setback temperatures. One, two or three degrees maximum deviation per day. Well, first of all, that's almost impossible to do with hot water because hot water overshoots and undershoots, and it does this all day long going over and under the limit.

The electric needs to be set at a four temperature that's continuously at the same temperature, and and our thermostat will keep it plus or minus one degree. All day and often less than that. But it'll keep it at that temperature all day long every day until you turn it off. If that's the case, you don't need to buy a programmable thermostat.

The what what's kind of funny is the most expensive flooring gets to use the least expensive thermostat. Because the least expensive thermostat has no program ability. You just set it to eighty two and leave it there forever until you're ready to decommission the system. And I think we're gonna talk about commissioning and decommissioning here in just a minute.

But that's why it's so important. This is another important question to ask. Do you allow setback temperatures? Yes or no?

Because that'll tell you what kind of thermostat to install.


So commissioning and decommissioning. Wow. What a coincidence.

Oh, it's almost like we knew what was coming.


So these are, seasonal adjustments. So often people will turn on or ramp up their system in the fall as it starts getting cooler and ramp it down in the spring as weather starts to warm up. So this is again avoiding abrupt temperature changes. You don't want to be doing what you would do tile, like you said, eighty during the day, seventy at night, you only wanna adjust it two to three degrees per day, making sure that you are not going to have any abrupt temperature changes or switches.

So this is a really important, mainly during, we it during the commissioning and decommissioning of the system. That's when you want to be very careful about, changing that temperature very slowly. And like you had said, Scott, a non programmable thermostat for these installations, that's gonna be your best bet. It's a cheaper thermostat, a more cost effective thermostat, and it's very user friendly because it's super simple. It's on or off and the temperature, and that's all you need to worry about.

So to think about this, I I did one of these installs at a friend of mine's house, and it's coming up to the point where they're going to be turning off the floor. But they're not going to be turning the floor off your on on Thursday, and and then be done with it. Right? What they're going to do is they're if it's set to eighty two degrees, on Thursday, that's fine.

So Thursday, you set it to seventy nine. Then on Saturday, you send it to seventy six. Then on Sunday, you set it to seventy three, then Monday, you set it to seventy, then Tuesday, you set it to sixty eight. And then you can stop doing it depending on what the temperature of the space is.

But that's what it means. Two to three degrees a day. So it could take you three or four days to turn the system off, and it could take you two or three days, sixty eight seventy three seventy three seventy to turn it on. So that's what we mean by note.

We need to ramp it up. And then at the end of the season, ramp it down.

So let's talk about taking care of that wood floor after the install.

Yeah. So one of the main things, and I'm sure that people are sick of hearing it but you don't wanna exceed that temperature, maximum from the manufacturer. So that's gonna be one of the main things that will help, keep those wood floors in good shape is not dealing or not messing with the, maximum temperature recommendation.

Generally laminate, they don't want it to exceed eighty two degrees. Generally hardwood shouldn't exceed eighty five. And again, that's obviously going to depend on your specific flooring type.

One more thing to think about as well after the installation is that you want to make sure that with, the laminate, you're actually waiting twenty four hours after the installation is complete to adjust or mess around with that temperature at all.

This way, again, you can really just use the least expensive control and just control the temperature easily that way.

One question that we get every once in a while, not as often as as you would think. But let's say we take a look at this picture here and a customer wants to heat this part by the front door, they want that tile because it's it's got a lot of traffic, it's a lot of abuse there. So they want to put tile up here, but they want the rest of the house to be wood. So that's okay. That's a great idea.

The invariably they'll ask, can I run the heating cable under the wood then under the tile two, the same cable? And you don't wanna do that because you don't wanna have a thermostat set up to heat wood that's also heating heating tile, and you don't wanna especially set up a thermostat that's heating tile with no temperature limits because then if you use that same cable to heat the heat the wood floor, You can't control the floor temperature. Oh, again, the happy times.

You can't you can't control the temperature of the wood. So that's you you can't do that. You can't, you know, put the thermostat and the sensor in the tile part and then run the wire over under the wood part because the wood is gonna be uncontrolled. It's just simply going to go by what the tile, eighty five sixty five, eighty five sixty five. You don't want the wood to do that. That's why you have you can never use one thermostat to control two disseparate types of flooring. Very important to remember that.


So are there any questions?

We had a we had a fellow that said hello a couple times, but that was it.

No we did answer the one question. And we answered the questions that we got ahead of time. So, if you've received a message about this one, you're going to receive messages about future ones. And when you get that message, you can send us your questions, and then we can have the answers ready for you, specifically like Gary did, and I think there was one other one.

So you can do that ahead of time. But I don't see any questions right now. So let's talk about our next webinar. That's going to be the benefits of electric floor heating for the home.

That's going to be Thursday at one o'clock on April eleventh.

And then keep in mind we have daily trainings. A lot of them are done by Lynn and by myself.

A different days at different times. Usually four PM, and then eleven AM for those days.

And you can join us there. And if you don't have a specific question, you know, about what we're talking about at that time, you can still ask the questions we'll be glad to answer them. So tell us about the monthly promotion this month.

Yeah. So for March, we're offering ten percent, discount on select temp zone products. So again, if you're looking at doing a wood floor and you're looking at utilizing tempsone, now would be a really great time to, to purchase that. So visit the website to learn a little bit more about that sale.

And we value your feedback. So, you're going to be receiving email shortly. Asking about your experience during this webinar. We appreciate your comments, your suggestions. And if there's something that you'd like us to talk about in the future, please let us know. We'd much prefer to talk about something that you're interested in than for us to take our dartboard and throw a dart at it to figure out what you wanna talk about or we'll just gonna make something So we'd much rather hear what you have to ask and address those, particular types of installations.

So you can contact us anytime at eight hundred eight seven five five two eight five. You can email us. You can check us out at warmly yours dot com. But, we're here whenever you need a question answer, feel free to give call, and we'll be glad to help you. So until next time, stay warm.

And be radiant.

Thanks for watching everybody.

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