How to install TempZone™ Floor Heating Cable under Nailed Hardwood Flooring

Hello. Today we're going to be talking about installing electric floor heating under hardwood flooring and what you need to do to accomplish that. This house is a perfect situation because we are removing an existing carpeted floor and replacing it with hardwood flooring. Before we lay down the hardwood, we will be installing electric floor heat. This type of heating is ideal for this space, as the living room features a two-story ceiling, causing much of the heat to become trapped at the top of the room. Today, we will demonstrate how to incorporate heat into the floor to achieve more even heating throughout the entire area.

Now that we've cleaned the floor and removed all dirt and debris, we will prime the surface. We are using self-leveling compound to cover the heating wires, and it is essential to prime the subfloor beforehand. Whenever you use self-leveling over a wood subfloor, you typically need to prime the surface that will be covered. We have our primer ready, and we will begin the priming process. Once the primer is dry, we will start installing our sleepers, which are thin strips of wood that are 3/8 of an inch high. These sleepers will create troughs for the heating wires to run back and forth.

As we lay out our sleepers on the floor, it's important to ensure they are positioned correctly. The sleepers must create a perimeter all the way around the room, as the edges need to be at the same height as the center. We consulted the hardwood flooring manufacturer, which specified an eight-inch nailing pattern for this installation. We have set up our perimeter strips and will measure eight inches on center to each strip, marking it across the floor to ensure it aligns with the installation plan provided by WarmlyYours.

The sleepers have now been installed, and their orientation is crucial. We aligned the sleepers in the same direction as the wood flooring in the adjacent room to ensure proper nailing points every eight inches, as specified by the manufacturer. If we had run the wood in the opposite direction, we would have had no solid points for nailing. Additionally, it is important to leave a gap at the end of each run of sleepers. This quarter-inch gap allows the heating cable to route through and connect to the next section. We always recommend having openings at each end of the floor to facilitate cable passage between the sleepers.

Our cable fixing strips come in one-foot lengths, and since the space between our sleepers is eight inches, we will need to cut these strips to fit. The easiest method is to trim both sides of the strips to ensure they fit snugly in the gaps. After cutting them to the appropriate length, we place them in the spaces between the sleepers. We have now adhered all of our cable fixing strips to the floor using an air stapler. With the strips in place, it's time to lay out the heating cable.

The heating cable is mounted on a spool and includes a cold lead, which is the non-heating portion of the wire. This black cold lead has a 240-volt sticker and a data sticker indicating the voltage, length, wattage, and amperage of the product. The cold lead is 15 feet long, and you may need to cut it to shorten it for proper installation. When doing so, remember to keep the label nearby for reference. We will now begin laying out the cable, starting with the cold lead. It’s essential to plan for the factory splice, which connects the heating wire to the non-heating wire. This splice is thicker and must be covered with thin set or self-leveling to prevent it from being exposed.

As we prepare to install the first roll of heating cable, we will ensure that the cold lead is positioned correctly and that the factory splice is buried in the self-leveling cement. Before laying the cable out on the floor, we will need to run the cold leads up into the wall and attach the circuit checks. The circuit checks are alarms that will alert us if the wire is damaged during installation. We will keep these checks attached throughout the installation process.

We have begun stringing out the cable using three-inch spacing, placing it every third notch. After installing the first spool of cable, we will proceed with the second one. I have tested the first spool with a digital ohm meter, and it is functioning correctly. The cold leads have been routed around the perimeter of the space and up to the thermostat. Now we are ready to install the second spool of cable. To keep the wires in place, we have added masking tape over the top of the cables every two to three feet, preventing them from shifting during the self-leveling process.

Now that we are in the room, we can see that some of the hardwood flooring is already installed. We have also applied a skim coat on top of the self-leveling, ensuring that the height is consistent with the sleepers. This will allow us to use staples and glue for the remainder of the floor installation. Once all the wood is laid down, we will need to fill in any small gaps with putty before sanding. After the putty has dried, we can sand the floor and proceed to apply the stain.

The floors are now completely installed, and it's time to remove the circuit checks. Before connecting the wires to the thermostat, we will test them with an ohmmeter to ensure they are still functioning properly. We will also label the wires and attach them near the circuit breaker box for future reference. At this point, we can see the power and ground wires coming up from the circuit breaker box, along with the two cables and the thermostat sensor. These will all be connected to the back of the thermostat.

Next, we will test the thermostat sensor to ensure it is operational. I will adjust the ohm meter to the appropriate range for testing. The thermostat sensor wire must come out through one of the holes in the faceplate. Once the faceplate is in place, I will run the sensor wire through the designated hole to connect it to the base of the thermostat. Now we are ready to connect the sensor wire to the terminals and secure the faceplate.

With the faceplate and power base for the thermostat installed, we have made the necessary connections for the thermostat sensor. After tightening the screws to secure the faceplate, we can open the doors and turn on the unit for the first time. The final step is to program the thermostat, and we will be ready to enjoy our newly installed heating system. Standing in this beautiful room with a brand-new hardwood floor, I can confidently say that following the proper steps ensures a successful installation.

To begin, provide us with the dimensions of the area and specify how many inches apart the wood floor must be nailed down, if applicable. We will then create a layout plan based on your preferences for the wood direction in the room. By following these simple steps, you will be well on your way to achieving a stunning hardwood floor installation. For more information, visit us at www.warmlyyours.com.