Installation Tips for Heated Tile Floors

All right, I think we are all here. You ready, Scott? I am ready. Awesome. Bear with us; there's some confusion as we're switching live event platforms. So I'm definitely still not a tech person. Today, thank you so much for joining us. My name is Lynn, and I am a customer service rep here at WarmlyYours. I'm also joined by one of our tech guys, Scott. Hello, and thanks for joining us. Awesome. Thank you so much for being here, Scott. Today we're talking about some installation tips for heating tile floors. If you have any questions on this or want to chat about an upcoming project, feel free to type away in the chat. We would be more than happy to answer any questions. If we don't get to them right away, we'll definitely address them.

We're going to go over a general introduction to floor heating, especially our electric floor heating products. Then we'll discuss heating with both Tempsens cable and Tempsens flex roll. We'll show you two different ways to get electric floor heating underneath tile floors. I want to start off by talking about the benefits of floor heating. There are quite a few advantages. A common misconception is that electric floor heating is not especially energy efficient, but that's not true. It tends to be even more energy efficient than traditional forced air systems. You only have to heat where and when you need it, which helps reduce allergens, dust, and air movement throughout the house. Additionally, it's incredibly easy to install. If you're already replacing a floor, adding some floor heating is not going to be an extra step, and it will provide long-term benefits.

Some of the systems we offer include TempZone, which consists of either mats or loose cables. TempZone is great for under tile, stone, most hardwoods, vinyl, and similar materials. We also have Envirin, which is a foil-backed mat that works well under carpet, floating floors, and engineered wood. Additionally, we offer in-slab concrete heating in both mats and loose cables. Today, we'll mainly focus on our TempZone products. So, Scott, can you tell us what to consider when looking at heating a tile floor?

I love this picture here because, for people who haven't done this before, a word of advice: don't try to figure it all out on your own. Simply provide us with the dimensions of your room, and we will create a free installation plan for you, usually within 24 hours. We often address common considerations, such as getting under the toe kick. You want to ensure that you get heat under the toe kick of the cabinet on the right side because you don't want your feet to be warm while your toes are cold. Additionally, you don't want to place the system too deep; the heating wires should be within an inch to an inch and a half of the top of the tile. This positioning allows for maximum warmth, as heat only radiates about an inch and a half from the wire itself. If you bury that wire three inches deep, you won't receive much heat.

If you look at the back of the picture, if that area is a closet, you do not want heat in the closet unless your local code authority permits it. It's against the National Electric Code to put floor heating in closets. If you want to heat your closet, make sure to consult your local code authority to see if it's allowed where you live. Also, we can see a shower on the left side. If you want to heat that shower, just let us know. Our product is location listed, so you can put it in the shower if you wish. Be sure to plan for the thickness of the cable and the thickness of the tile, as you don't want a really thick tile that will place the wire too far from the surface.

The most important thing to remember is that you cannot cut the heating cable. If you have too much cable or guess incorrectly, you may end up with excess cable that you cannot cut. That's why we always ask if you have any cabinets. You can go under the toe kick, but you cannot go under the cabinet itself. These are some key considerations to keep in mind when planning your installation.

Looking at our TempZone systems, we have both TempZone cable and rolls. This is a great system for heating under tile and stone. Both options are excellent, depending on factors such as your budget and the amount of labor you're willing to undertake. Cables are usually a bit more economical but can be more labor-intensive and time-consuming. We'll go over both options and walk you through the steps for each, so you can make an informed decision for your project. Both systems are wet location listed, making them ideal for bathrooms, which often feature tile floors. Many people are concerned about electric floor heating in bathrooms or showers, but these systems are rated for that use and are perfectly safe. Additionally, the systems operate on a GFCI-protected thermostat, so you won't have to worry about electrical shocks.

Starting with Tempsens cables, this option provides a lot of flexibility in your design. I've seen this used in rooms that are circular or have unique juts and turns, allowing you to heat around various areas as needed. This option offers more coverage than you could achieve with flex rolls, as those are cut and turned and may not fit into as many spaces. Can you tell us a little about the fixing strips and their purpose?

The fixing strips have been around as long as the cable itself. You can see that the cable fixing strips are not placed under the tub. You should avoid heating under the tub due to concerns about drains and hot or cold water pipes. If you install a floor heating system and then drill through it, you will lose the heating system. Therefore, it's essential to take special care to avoid that area. If you have a round room or one with many nooks and crannies, it will be faster to install with these cable fixing strips. You can attach them with double-sided tape, screws, nails, or staples to secure them to the floor. Then, you string the cable back and forth between those fixing strips, ensuring the correct spacing. The little knobs on the strips are spaced one inch apart, so for every knob you use, that's your spacing.

If you have a run of three, four, or five feet from strip to strip, you may want to use masking tape to hold the cables down while you apply thin set or self-leveling compound over the top. Can you use cables with closer or further apart spacing?

Yes, you can. That's one of the great features of cables; you don't have to use three-inch spacing. If you're over a cold area, like an unheated crawl space, you'll definitely want to stick to three-inch spacing. However, if you're on the second floor above a heated area, you may not need as many watts per square foot to heat that floor. In that case, four-inch spacing may suffice. If you exceed four-inch spacing, you might encounter mixed results. The best spacing is three inches, but if you're on a second story and just want a generally warm floor, four-inch spacing could work, unless it's a room with significant heat loss, such as one with many exterior walls or skylights.

These factors contribute to how warm the floor will be. If your bathroom is on the second story, you should still consider the heat loss before deciding on spacing. Providing us with your room dimensions and details about the space will help us recommend the right product for your needs.

Next, let's discuss TempZone flex rolls, which are ideal for quick and easy installation. The cable is pre-spaced at three inches, making it suitable for various applications, whether on the first, second, or even 18th floor. These rolls come in two widths: one and a half feet and three feet. This flexibility allows you to fit the product into tighter spaces or adjust the layout and design of the heating system.

It's essential to ensure you're installing the correct size product. Our SmartPlans provide complimentary next-day plans that detail how to run the cable or flex roll, showing you exactly where to cut and turn. The mesh has specific areas where you can cut without damaging the cable, so be sure to follow the heating diagram for a successful installation.

The three-foot widths are available in 240 volts, designed for larger rooms, as they allow for quicker installation. These are typically used in large rectangular spaces. If you need to make many cuts and turns, using a three-foot width may complicate the installation. The three-inch spacing is crucial because heat travels an inch and a half from each wire, ensuring smooth heating across the floor. As the wires get further apart, you may experience cooler areas in between, which is why we generally avoid spacing beyond four inches.

Cross sections are an excellent way to visualize floor heating, as they illustrate the steps and what you'll encounter during installation. Starting with the TempZone flex roll, the common subfloor material is wood. You'll need fixing strips to hold the cable in place with the cable system, while the mesh holds the cable in place using the rolls. For a wood subfloor, you should first lay down the fixing strips, then string the cable back and forth between them. After that, apply thin set and set the tile.

Always remember to install your floor sensor in the open loop area, ensuring it does not run over any heating wire. This process is similar for the TempZone cable, which also starts with fixing strips attached directly to the wood subfloor. You can use nails, screws, or staples to secure them, but never staple over the wire itself.

For a concrete slab or subfloor, you'll want to lay down insulation over the slab first. This step is crucial because the slab can absorb heat from the cables, which is not ideal. In the past, higher wattage was used to heat slabs, but our systems are designed to be installed within an inch to an inch and a half of the top of the flooring. To achieve this, you should use a thermal barrier like Cerazorb, which has a higher R-value than regular cork and is synthetic, preventing mold growth.

You adhere the Cerazorb to the concrete subfloor using modified thin set, then install the TempZone cable or flex roll on top of it, followed by more thin set and tile.

All of our thermostats come with a complimentary floor sensor, which is essential for proper operation. Many people overlook this, but it's crucial to ensure that the sensor is installed at the same time and location as the heating. The sensor should be placed six to eight inches into an open loop, avoiding contact with any heating wire.

Some people opt to install a backup sensor for peace of mind, but it's important to run both sensors up the wall in separate conduits. You can only attach one to the thermostat; if you attach both, the thermostat will not function correctly. Additionally, avoid placing the sensor in areas exposed to direct sunlight, as this can lead to inaccurate readings.

When beginning the installation process, it's vital to test your system to ensure it's working. Never turn the system on before it's covered with thin set and tile. If you do, the heat will escape into the air, and the sensor won't register the correct temperature.

To test the system, use a digital ohm meter before and after installation to ensure everything is functioning correctly. Write down the ohm readings in the installation manual as proof of a successful installation. It's essential to use a meter that allows you to set specific ranges, as self-ranging meters can lead to inaccurate readings.

For a project using TempZone fixing strips and loose cable, the dimensions of the room being heated were about 123 square feet, with a heated area of approximately 94 square feet. You typically don't heat the entire space, as no one stands against the wall. Heating only about 80-85% of the room saves on product costs and electricity while still providing adequate warmth.

The power requirements for this area were around 1400 watts, or 11.63 amps, all on one 15 amp non-GFI breaker. Keep in mind that the thermostat is a GFCI thermostat, so it should not be placed on a GFI circuit. It's also a common misconception that all floor heating projects require 240 volts. For smaller rooms under 120 square feet, a 240-volt system is unnecessary.

These systems are not expensive to operate. For example, heating this room costs about $0.05 per hour, or approximately $0.40 for eight hours of use. If you're only in the room for four hours a day, your electricity usage will be halved. This energy efficiency is a significant advantage, as you can heat only the areas you occupy rather than the entire house.

The SmartPlan we discussed earlier outlines the cable installation process. The red dot on the plan corresponds with a white dot on the red cable, helping you ensure proper spacing during installation. If the white dot appears too far from the red dot, it indicates that the heating wires were installed too closely together or that too little cable was used.

You can pull the cable away from the walls to save on excess cable, as you don't need to heat right up against the wall. It's also important to avoid placing the cable in front of doors to prevent damage from transition strips.

The fixing strips should be installed at the correct distances from the walls, as indicated on your plan. If you deviate from these measurements, you may end up with too much or too little cable.

Once the fixing strips are down, you can run the cable according to the SmartPlan. Make sure to secure the cable to the subfloor, especially if you're using self-leveling concrete or thin set. This step is crucial to keep everything in place during the installation process.

After the cable has been run, you can tile over the floor as you normally would. The cost breakdown for this project using TempZone cable and fixing strips was approximately $689, with fixing strips included for free.

Moving on to TempZone flex rolls, which are popular for their ease of installation, the project we discussed used a 120-volt TempZone flex roll, covering 123 square feet and heating about 90 square feet. The total wattage was 1,346 watts, still using a 115 amp, 120-volt non-GFI breaker.

The SmartPlan for the flex roll installation shows the cut and turn process. It's essential to follow the plan closely, as you can only turn in specific directions based on the loop's position. When working with flex rolls, you may need to take the wire off the mesh for cuts and turns, which requires hot glue to secure it in place.

Measuring and cutting the mesh is crucial, and you should never cut the heating cable. Always adhere the mesh to the subfloor after completing all cuts and turns to avoid repositioning.

For adhering the flex roll to the subfloor, hot glue is the recommended method. You can apply a dollop of hot glue on the mesh and use a chisel to spread it, ensuring that the cable remains untouched.

Regarding installation methods, the one-step method is typically for experienced installers, while the two-step method is more common. The two-step method allows for better height control and a flatter floor, as you can apply thin set in two stages.

The cost breakdown for the TempZone flex roll application for this project was approximately $855, using a 1.5-foot by 60 linear foot roll for that 90 square foot coverage.

As you install the tile, be cautious of leveling systems that could pinch the wire. Clean the grout lines as you go to avoid damage during subsequent cleaning.

Finally, remember to wait until the thin set has cured before turning on the system. The cure time is specified on the thin set bag, and it's essential to adhere to this timeline to avoid brittle thin set that could crack under heat.

If any questions arise, feel free to type them in the chat. Our next webinar will be on Thursday, November 9th, at 1 o'clock Central, focusing on pro tips for heating with luxury vinyl tile. We offer daily training sessions on Zoom, usually twice a day, hosted by our customer service reps.

For October, we have a promotion of 15% off our snow melting system, so be sure to check our website for more information. After this session, we'll send out an email asking for your feedback on today's webinar. We appreciate your input and want to ensure we're discussing topics that interest you.

We are here to assist you via phone, email, or our website. We would love to help you get a SmartPlan or answer any questions you might have. Thank you, Scott, for joining us and sharing your expertise. Until next time, stay warm and be radiant.