How to Seal an End Cap on a TempZone™ Electric Floor Heating Cable

Hello. Today we're going to talk about replacing the end cap on the end of a twin heating cable. Inside the heating cable, there are actually two wires that heat up, and at the end, inside of this cap, is where they are joined together. We will show you how to replace this cap in case it gets damaged during installation. To replace the end cap, you'll just need some simple tools: a pair of needle-nose pliers, a crimper for attaching connectors, and a blade to trim back the covering to access the wire. Additionally, you will need to obtain a splice kit, which we will use to replace the parts inside the end cap.

The first step in replacing the end cap is to cut it off, and this is where the needle-nose pliers come in handy as they are effective for cutting the wire. After cutting off the cap, we will remove the insulated butt connector, which has a shrink wrap around it. Inside the connector, you will find a small solder bead. This solder bead is crucial as it helps create a strong connection by melting into the wire. I will assess where the wire rests inside and trim the outer jacket back to about halfway to the solder bead, which is where I want to make my cut.

Next, I will carefully press down on the blade to cut through the outer layer of the blue cover. This will allow us to access the heating wires inside, which are wrapped individually. We need to separate these wires from each other and twist the ground wire accordingly. It is important to strip the inner conductors back without removing too much insulation, as we want to ensure that the wires remain insulated from the ground. I will move over about a 1/16 of an inch from where the insulation will cover to ensure a good overlap for insulation.

Once we have determined where the wires will be located inside the insulated butt connector, we need to strip just enough insulation away from the small conductor wires. I will not be using a wire stripper for this task because the different sizes of rolls or mats may have varying wire thicknesses that are not standard. After stripping the insulation from both wires, I will place the black adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing onto the cable. This tubing will provide a waterproof connection at the end, so I will position it on the wire and keep it out of the way for now.

Now that the heat shrink tubing is in place, I will twist the exposed wires together and slide the insulated butt connector over them. With the butt connector secured, I will use the wire strippers to match the appropriate slot to the butt connector. Since this is a red butt connector, I will use the red slot on the wire stripper to compress it onto the wires, ensuring a secure connection. It can be helpful to press against a table or floor for added leverage. After compressing, I will pull on the wires to ensure they are firmly seated inside the connector.

The next step is to heat the connector to create a watertight seal. I will start by heating the area around the first end of the butt connector. Using needle-nose pliers, I will close off the end to seal it. As I heat it, I will notice a clear liquid emerging from the end of the butt connector, indicating that the glue is melting and creating a watertight seal. After sealing this end, I will move to the other side of the butt connector to ensure it is closed before melting the solder. If I do not close this end first, there is a risk that the solder could run out and create a faulty connection.

I will heat all the way around the connector to ensure it constricts evenly. As I do this, I will watch for the connector to become clear, indicating that the glue is melting properly. Once I see the clear liquid emerge from the end, I know we have achieved a watertight seal. Now that both ends of the butt connector are sealed, I will reposition the ground wire next to the butt connector, ensuring that it remains insulated from the heating core wires.

Next, I will take the black heat shrink tubing and center it over the connection, ensuring that it covers the end of the old connection on the butt connector. This will allow for a good seal at both ends. Once I am satisfied with the positioning, I will heat the black heat shrink starting from one end. After heating the tubing, I will check for a watertight seal at both ends. The clear liquid emerging from the end confirms that the inner adhesive has flowed out, ensuring a waterproof connection.

In conclusion, we have successfully replaced the end cap on the twin heating cable. If you have any further questions, we can provide you with detailed instructions and offer assistance over the phone 24/7, 365 days a year. Now you know how to perform an end connection on a twin heating cable. Thank you for watching.