How to wire an nSpiration Series model thermostat to an electric floor heating roll
So now it's time to install the thermostat, so when you take the thermostat out of the box, there's some things you want to look for and we'll go ahead and talk about what's inside the box. When you open the box, you'll see the thermostat. The thermostat actually consists of two parts, the faceplate and the base. When you order a thermostat, you'll always get both of them together. You cannot order them separately. So when you order the thermostat, you get the power base and the faceplate underneath the packing material is our floor sensor. We've already installed the floor sensor because you install that when you put the flooring in. It also comes with the instructions that you need right here. And it comes with the screws that you need to attach it to the wall. Now we have the base just by itself. And the base is going to get installed into the wall and then the faceplates going to be put onto the front of the unit. What I want you to do is I want you to take a look at this connector right here, this blue terminal box. And you have to make some certain connections here. The two connections at the bottom are for the sensor. So you're going to be installing the sensor wire in these two bottom screws. Then if you look here, there's two more connections. And these are connections that are made when using a power module in conjunction with this unit. So you're wiring the separate power module over to this unit and making your connections over here on the top two wire terminals. This is the back of the thermostat with the right side up.
What I'm going to do is I'm going to turn it upside down. And I'm going to take this plastic cover off. And that will show how to make the connections in the back of the thermostat. If you look here, you can see that the word printed says "line". These are the wires coming in from the circuit breaker. The wires down here are indicated with the word "load". Load means the floor, and the floor connections will be made here. We've identified these wires as being the wires from the junction box. So we'll need to trim those to the correct length according to the local code. Local code states that the wires must be 8 inches from the entrance of the box, so we've made our 8 inch mark here. And what I'm going to do now is I'm going to take the wires from the junction box. And I'm going to match them up. And I'm going to make sure that all of our wires are the same length and match that 8 inch requirement. If you look at the back of the thermostat, this is 240 without a ground, there's no polarity in the mat itself. So you don't have to worry about which one, which wire gets placed where because it's a double pole switch relay inside, which means it's turning off both legs, even in one 120. So you don't have to worry about getting the hot in the neutral on the correct one because it has a double pole switch inside that turns off both legs. So the mat, as we said, has no polarity. So it doesn't matter. And there's no marking on here showing which one is red, which one is black. You don't have to worry about it. You just need to make sure that you get the load wires from the floor attached to the load terminals on the back of the thermostat.
Here we can see our first wire is in and it's under our terminal connector and we're going to go ahead and get our red under here. The only issue you may have is keeping that little metal bracket out far enough that you can get the wire in underneath. And when you do that, you want to make sure that all of the strands are under the metal bracket, that you don't have a couple of stray strands hanging out that might be able to make contact with other wires behind this terminal. Now that we've got our wires inserted, it's time for us to go ahead and tighten the metal bracket down with the screw and make sure there's no wire hanging out from the top. Now that we have our wires connected, you pull on them to make sure that they don't come out from under the metal bracket. So now we're going to make our connections. And remember, there's no polarity in the mat, so it doesn't really matter. But what we're going to do just to keep it neat here is we're going to put the red wire under this terminal and the black wire under this terminal. When you're making your connection here, you want to make sure that the metal bracket in here is not coming down on the plastic insulation of the wire. If you do that, you're only going to have an intermittent connection or a bad connection. So you want to make sure that you can see just a little tiny sliver of metal on this side and then you're going to tighten the metal bracket down. Once that's done, we can then put our plastic cap over the back.
Now we're going to take our thermostat sensor and test it to make sure it's good. It's going to read anywhere between 8,000 to 18,000 somewhere in there, just depending on the temperature of the room itself. But what we need to do is we need to set the ohmmeter, the digital ohmmeter. Never use an analog meter with a needle, but with this digital ohmmeter, we're going to send it, set it to the 20k range, and that's where we're going to make our readings. So I'm going to attach one wire here, the other wire here, and we're getting 9.7. So it tells us that our thermostat sensor is good. Now that we know the thermostat sensor is good, it's time to trim some of this length. You do not need all of this wire and there's no need to stuff it down into the box. The local code here says you must have eight inches of cable sticking out. So our 8 inch mark is about right here. So I'm going to trim it to this spot. OK, we're going to make sure that we loosen up these screws for the sensor and you can see that it's called out right on the base where the sensor wires are going to go and they're going to go inside this blue terminal strip. So to do that, I need to get it through the base. Like so. Make sure all my strands are there, and once again, this is another wire that is not, has no polarity, so either one of the wires can go under either one of the terminals. Sometimes it's easier to stick it all the way out like this to make it go in there a little bit better. Now we're ready to go ahead and put our system into the wall, we've got all of our wires connected here at the base, so we want to make sure that we put that in there as it shows. And we're going to take these two screws that are supplied in the box. And we're going to get them started in the 4 by 4 thermostat box. All right. So now we've got the base in the wall. I'm going to snug up the bottom screw just a little bit. Remember, if this is brand new paint, you don't want to make this tight at all, but you want it to be tight enough that you can make it look like a pivot. And that's going to allow me to get the thermostat on So it is nice and level. Once I find the level spot, I can then go ahead and tighten the top one down and then tighten the bottom one. All the way up. The base is now on the wall, and it's nice and square.
So now comes the time to put the faceplate for the thermostat on, and after that, we'll be able to fire up our floor and enjoy the nice, warm heat in this room. Remember, there's a set screw at the bottom to hold the faceplate on, so all you need to do is you need to tighten that up. And then remove the protective piece of plastic on here. Look for the blue piece that is not designed to stay there once the system is installed. This is there just to protect the screen from fingerprints and such. You can go ahead and pull it away from the faceplate. All right. Our power is on now. Now the thermostat, is ready for us to go ahead and program it. We'll show you how to program the thermostat in another video.