How to Get a Winter-ready Home with Heated Luxury Vinyl Tile

Hello. Thank you so much for joining us. My name is Lynn. I am a customer service representative, and today I am joined by Scott from WarmlyYours. How about that? Would you look at that? So today we're talking about getting your home winter ready with heating your LVT. If you have any questions during today's webinar, please don't hesitate to ask. We'd be more than happy to answer any questions you might have, and you can do so either in the sidebar chat or at the bottom of the screen in the ask a question module. If we don't see your question right away, we'll definitely get to it by the end of the presentation.

Today, we're going to be going over floor heating specifically underneath luxury vinyl, either luxury vinyl tile or planks. We'll discuss an example project where they used our heating cable, go over the installation process of that cable, and provide a cost breakdown. So, can you tell us, Scott, a little bit about why LVT is becoming so popular and why bother heating it?

Well, it's very cost-effective, and people are liking the textures and the ease of installation. The cost is a big factor. It's very durable, resistant to scuffs and stains, and waterproof sometimes. It lasts a long, long time. Even though it feels warmer underfoot than tile does, it can still get chilly. If you're in a cold room over a cold space, the floor will feel chilly. That's what we're talking about—keeping that floor warm.

LVT is made of vinyl, so it has its own rules about installation. Many of the rules we follow here, we can't apply universally because we don't know every rule for every different manufacturer. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of flooring manufacturers. If we tried to compile a list, it would quickly become obsolete. One thing to note is that vinyl is a little more delicate chemically than laminates, which is why laminates and LVT are heated differently. Even though they're both floating, they are heated differently, and that's what we're going to be discussing today.

Looking at the different types of floor heating available, you want to ensure that you're selecting the right system to go underneath LVT. Specifically, you'll want to look for a system that can be embedded. This will include our TempZone systems, either our flex roll or our loose TempZone cable. These systems will range in wattage from 8 to 15 watts per square foot, depending on which product you use and the spacing of the cable. It's important to steer clear of our Environn product for this specific application.

Vinyl and laminate are often considered very similar and are sometimes used interchangeably in terminology. However, if you're using a vinyl product, you must use an embeddable product underneath it. Again, these aren't our rules; they are the rules of the manufacturer. Our EnvironnRoll is a product that is never attached to anything, meaning you don't glue it down or thin set it in. EnvironnRoll is simply a blanket that you lay out over the subfloor or over a padded subfloor, and then you lay laminate over the top of it.

The issue with Environn arises when you're doing that on top of a layer, as there are wires that can stick up. This is where we see the difference when transitioning from laminate to LVT. We will delve into that further later on in the presentation.

As we approach winter, now is the time to consider how you're going to winterize your space. We don't want your space to be especially cold. Installing LVT will provide extra warmth, as Scott mentioned earlier. It tends to be warmer to the touch than tile and offers similar resilience and durability without the extra chill. Adding floor heating underneath will not only make the floor feel warmer but will also keep the space warmer overall. It efficiently transfers radiant heat from the flooring up to the space, making it cozier.

This is particularly beneficial for uninsulated areas, such as rooms above garages or basements that tend to get cold in winter. Adding warmth to these spaces will significantly enhance comfort throughout the winter months.

Looking at a cross-section, we love our cross-sections here at WarmlyYours. Scott, can you explain how this installation goes?

You're going to start with a subfloor of some sort. In our example, we're showing plywood and wood. If this were a concrete slab, you would need to add a layer of insulation under the fixing strips and under the cable to keep the wire away from the concrete. This is something we discuss in many of our other webinars. When heating on a slab, it's crucial to note that if you place heating wire directly on a slab, the slab will pull the heat down, preventing it from rising where you want it to go.

That's why, if we were doing this over a slab, we would first put insulation, like Cerazorb, over the top of that slab and then lay the cable on it. This creates a thermal break.

If we're doing an installation over a wood subfloor, as shown here, the plywood serves as the base for everything else. We will need to cover it with self-leveling cement, which requires a primer. The primer will be specified in the instructions for the self-leveling cement. Before we apply anything to the subfloor, we prime it.

Next, we put the fixing strips around the perimeter of the room. These strips are essential because they are where you will string the cable back and forth. After that, we lay the cable, stringing it back and forth at whatever spacing we decide is appropriate—three inches or four inches, for example. Once the cable is laid down, we will use masking tape every couple of feet to hold the cable down.

The cable is surprisingly less dense than self-leveling cement, which is a very dense material. If the cable isn't held down, it will float to the top when the self-leveling is poured over it. Once we achieve a nice flat floor with the heated subfloor, the LVT will sit right on top of that.

Using self-leveling cement is crucial because it helps comply with warranty coverage requirements for LVT. Typically, the warranty states that the heating element must be embedded in a layer of concrete or self-leveling cement. Additionally, there is usually a rule in the installation manual that specifies a half-inch separation from the heat source. Pouring a half-inch of self-leveling cement achieves this separation and ensures compliance with the embedded requirement.

Moreover, many installation manuals will have a flatness requirement, stating that the floor must be flat to a certain tolerance, such as 3/16 over 10 feet. The cable and the environment can be wavy, so using self-leveling cement is necessary to meet the flatness requirement. This method addresses three critical factors: flatness requirement, half-inch distance from the heating wire, and the embedded requirement.

This is why we recommend this approach, as it helps you comply with the warranty requirements of the system you're installing.

In the same vein, embedding your floor heating system is crucial. As mentioned, anything underneath the surface will eventually show through the LVT over time. This drawing illustrates the difference between laminate and vinyl and why different products are necessary for each. Laminate is a bit more rigid, allowing for some leeway in terms of imperfections underneath. In contrast, LVT tends to "drape," meaning it will show any imperfections, bumps, or ridges over time. This can not only affect the appearance and feel of your floor but can also damage your heating system.

That's why embedding is so important. A common question is why we need to use self-leveling instead of a product like thinset. The issue with thinset is that it cannot be made completely flat. As a result, air pockets can form between the LVT and the thinset, leading to a hollow sound when walking on the floor. This is why we recommend self-leveling cement instead of thinset.

When considering radiant heat, you should also look for LVT with an R-value of less than one. If you use something with an R-value of four, the heat will be trapped under the floor and won't reach the room. Thicker pads, especially those with self-attached insulation, can increase the R-value. Some LVT products even have cork on the underside, which is a good insulator. This creates an additional layer of insulation that can prevent heat from penetrating the floor into the room.

Therefore, it's essential to choose an assembled plank with an R-value of less than one. Additionally, check the warranty coverage to ensure that the LVT brand allows for radiant heat. If it doesn't, move on to one that does, as there are many options available.

Another consideration is the maximum temperature allowed. You need to know if you can heat it up to 84 degrees or 86 degrees. Additionally, find out the maximum temperature swing allowed per day. Our programmable thermostats have a setback temperature feature, meaning when the floor isn't in use, it sets the temperature back to 70 degrees. Then, during the night or when you're home, it sets it back to 84 degrees.

Some LVT companies allow a maximum deviation of three degrees per day, meaning you can go from 84 to 79 or 84 to 81. Electric floor heating is a perfect match for LVT because the thermostat sensor can be placed in the floor. However, with hot water systems, you need to be cautious, as they can overshoot and undershoot temperatures. Electric floor heating allows you to maintain a consistent temperature, which is ideal for LVT.

As an informed consumer, you should learn about the maximum temperature deviation allowed per day. This knowledge will ensure that you follow all the necessary rules, and if any issues arise, you'll know you've complied with the requirements.

Looking at the project overview, the TempZone cable used was a 240-volt system. The total area heated was 161.5 square feet, with approximately 132 square feet covered by the heating element. Generally, we see about 80% of a room heated, with 20% left unheated for various reasons, such as not heating directly up to the wall or under low-lying furniture.

The wattage for this project was 1,973 watts, totaling eight amps, all on one 15 amp, 240-volt non-GFI breaker. It's important to note that these systems should be on a non-GFI circuit. The operating cost for this system was about nine cents an hour, or 4.72 cents per day.

The reason we use 240 volts instead of 120 is not that 240 is inherently more efficient. Rather, it allows us to heat over 120 square feet with one thermostat. A 15-amp thermostat can cover about 120 square feet at 120 volts. If you have a smaller job under 120 square feet, use 120 volts for efficiency. However, for larger areas, 240 volts allows you to use one control instead of two, making it a more cost-effective choice.

When testing your system, it's essential to do so before, during, and after every stage of installation. I recommend testing as soon as you receive the product, even if you're not planning to install it for a while. This way, you can ensure everything is in working order and avoid any last-minute issues. If you encounter any problems, reach out to us immediately, and we will assist you before you begin installation.

Additionally, using a circuit check device during installation is beneficial. This device clips onto the end of the mat or cable and alerts you if the wire is damaged during the installation process. It's crucial to use a digital ohm meter, not an analog one, for testing. A digital meter allows you to set specific ranges for accurate readings.

The circuit check acts as a monitor while you work, so you don't have to constantly test with the meter. After testing, you can install the self-leveling over the cable, ensuring everything is functioning correctly.

This project involves a TempZone cable on a wood subfloor in a bedroom in Kildeer, Illinois. The initial sketch we received for this project was a simple hand-drawn layout with dimensions. It's essential to mark where you do or do not want heating, and this sketch serves as a great starting point.

Dimensions are crucial, as heating under permanent fixtures is not allowed by the National Electric Code. Additionally, heating in closets is prohibited under the National Electric Code, although Canadian codes may differ. Always follow your local code, as it takes precedence over national standards.

The installation plan we created shows how the cable is laid out. Notice that we are not heating the closet, and the dimensions help us determine how much cable fits into the space. The cable should be spaced every three inches across the floor, ensuring proper coverage.

If you deviate from the plan, you risk running out of cable or having too much, which is problematic since you cannot cut the cable. That's why we emphasize the importance of accurate measurements and following the SmartPlan.

As for the installation process, you'll start by preparing your subfloor. Ensure that the vinyl manufacturer confirms compatibility with the subfloor. If you're working with a wood subfloor, apply a primer to help the self-leveling cement bond effectively.

Self-leveling is dense and can float up if not secured properly. It's essential to seal any holes in the subfloor to prevent the self-leveling from leaking into the basement or lower floors. Use caulk around the perimeter of the room to create a barrier for the self-leveling.

When laying out the TempZone cable, follow the SmartPlan and secure the fixing strips to the subfloor. Use screws, concrete nails, or double-sided tape to hold them in place. Then, lay out the cable according to the specified pattern, ensuring that you check the halfway mark for proper coverage.

The SmartPlan will indicate the cable spacing, which is crucial for achieving the desired heating effect. The more cable you have per square foot, the warmer the floor will be. Be cautious not to space the cables too far apart, as this can lead to cold spots.

If you're using a TempZone flex roll, lay it out with the cable side down and the mesh facing up. Cut the mesh between the open loops to change directions, but never cut the cable itself. Secure the flex roll to the subfloor to prevent it from floating during the self-leveling process.

When installing the floor sensor, it's essential to do this early in the process. Open the thermostat box and remove the sensor to install it in the floor. This step is crucial for measuring the floor temperature accurately.

Once the self-leveling concrete is laid, ensure it cures according to the manufacturer's instructions before powering up the system. The curing time may vary, so don't rush this step.

After the flooring is installed and the thermostat is ready, set the temperature limit according to the manufacturer's specifications. Many LVT products have a maximum temperature limit of around 82 degrees.

If your manufacturer allows for a custom temperature limit, make sure to set it accordingly. This ensures that you comply with warranty requirements and protect your flooring from damage.

In summary, this project involved a TempZone cable installation on a wood subfloor, with a total cost of approximately $1,121. This included the cable, thermostat, and other necessary materials.

We hope this information has been helpful and informative. If you have any questions or need assistance with your heating project, please feel free to reach out. Thank you for joining us today, and we look forward to helping you with your future projects.