Learn How to Install Snow Melt Systems for Pavers

Hello and welcome to today's monthly webinar entitled "Learn How to Install Snow Melt Systems for Pavers." My name is Scott, and I'm from WarmlyYours. What a coincidence, the person I'm about to introduce you to is also from WarmlyYours. Hi, I am Lynn, a customer service representative, also oddly enough from WarmlyYours. Thanks for joining us today, Lynn. We will be discussing the installation of snow melt systems under pavers, exploring what that can do for you, and giving you a look at one of the projects that has been completed. If you have any questions, feel free to click on the "Ask a Question" button at the bottom of the screen, and we will be glad to answer your questions as we go along. We have a couple of questions that have already been sent in, but I will save those until the end of the presentation to reinforce the points covered and enhance the learning experience for everyone involved. So, what will we be covering in our webinar today, Lynn?

Today, we will discuss how the snow melt system is installed under pavers, provide general information on the snow melt systems themselves, and review the installation process. Additionally, we will cover the costs associated with installing a snow melt system like this and share some tips for installation and operation. Let's take a look at what is involved in these snow melting jobs. On our screen, you can see a bunch of green. What exactly are we seeing here?

These are our actual snow melting heating elements. This includes our snow melt cable, which is loose cable, and the snow melt mat, which is essentially the same cable but mounted on a mesh roll for easy installation. Snow melt systems are designed to be embedded in concrete, asphalt, or in mortar or sand if you are using pavers. These systems heat the surface evenly, effectively melting snow and ice. It's important to note that these heating elements must be installed under a solid protective layer; they should never be placed under gravel. We often receive inquiries about using these systems under gravel, and the answer is no. If the gravel wears away over time, the heating cables would be exposed, which is not safe or effective.

One thing to keep in mind is that the snow melt mat is slightly more expensive due to the additional materials involved in its construction, such as mesh and tape. However, the advantage of the snow melt mat is that the wires are pre-spaced at three-inch intervals. This means you can simply roll it out, cut the mesh, and adjust it to fill the required spaces. This is particularly beneficial for large rectangular areas. If you need to heat circular areas or have diagonal angles that are difficult to fill, or if you're working on stairs, you will want to use the snow melt cable. Many of our projects actually combine both types; you can use snow melt cable in irregularly shaped areas and stairs while using a snow melt mat for larger rectangular areas that require a quicker installation.

Now, let's take a look at the next slide. Are we on a different slide now, Scott, or is this the same one? This slide shows snow melt systems for pavers, and you can see that the pavers are completely free of snow or ice. When heating pavers, the best results are achieved with pavers that are less than two and a half inches thick. Thicker pavers take longer to heat and can lead to unsatisfactory results if the heating cable is buried too deep in the installation. It's crucial to remember that optimal results come from using pavers that are less than two and a half inches thick. We will also discuss snow melt controls later, which allow you to maintain a clean surface free of slush, ice, or packed snow.

Lynn, can you see our pavers in the picture now? Yes, I can. It seems we have a bit of a delay, but let's move on to the paver cross-sections. Let me know when you're ready to describe this, Lynn. I am ready now; I can see the cross-section. Perfect! To start, you will need four to eight inches of crushed gravel to create a solid base. Then, lay out your frame, ensuring it is sturdy and durable—avoid using something like chicken wire. After that, you will roll out your mat or lay out your cable, depending on which system you are using. Finish off with one to one and a half inches of finished mortar, sand, or stone dust, and then lay your pavers directly on top.

One question I received yesterday from someone doing this exact installation was whether they could eliminate the 10-gauge wire fencing that we recommend for these jobs. I informed them that they could skip that step if they were using the mat, as the cable would be held in place by the mesh. They can lay out part of the mesh, cover it with mortar or sand dust, and work their way across. However, if using loose cable, you cannot skip the wire mesh; it is necessary to secure the cables properly. This cross-section effectively illustrates the thicknesses and layers involved in the installation.

It looks like we have a real live project here that someone completed recently. Yes, absolutely! We have some excellent pictures of a recent project completed under a paver driveway and walkway. I can tell it was done recently because the installer is wearing a mask, indicating that this installation took place during the summer of 2020. Let's take a look at the project overview. Can you tell us what was involved with this heating system?

This overview shows the electrical details of the project. It indicates the specific mat being used, which is a 240-volt snow melt mat, along with the total dimensions of the area being heated and the actual heated area itself, which covers 799 square feet. It also outlines all the power requirements, including total wattage and amperage, and provides a breakdown of the necessary circuit breakers for the system, as well as the operating costs.

One great aspect is that we provide an electrical plan with our installation plan, allowing the electrician to purchase the necessary GFCI circuit breakers and other components. It's essential to remember that outdoor heating requires GFCI breakers, not standard or GFI breakers. A regular breaker can be used for the control circuit, which powers the unit, but everything energized in the ground must be powered by a GFCI circuit breaker. It is crucial to understand this distinction. When someone sends us a plan, we take the dimensions and fill that space with products we have in stock.

Why do we have these products readily available, Lynn? So that we can ship them out quickly, and it allows for easy visualization of how they will be laid out. We can provide precise information on the products to be purchased and how they will fit into the installation. By having stock sizes, once we receive your approval to place the order, we can ship it immediately. You won't have to wait for custom lengths; we provide off-the-shelf products designed to fit your specific needs.

Here we have six rolls, and at the bottom of your plan, you will find valuable information, such as the name of your job, the required circuit breakers, the size and quantity of rolls included, and other pertinent details. This is what we call a SmartPlan, which is especially beneficial for those who have never done an installation before. Instead of trying to figure everything out on your own, we have it all laid out for you. Our design team specializes in creating these plans, so you can trust that everything is accurately designed.

This is part of the job, and it looks like there is another section to discuss. Yes, this is the walkway connected to the driveway. You can see how all the pre-cut mats are laid out, demonstrating how to cut and adjust them for various spaces. Walkways are typically rectangular, but keep in mind that areas without heating cables may not melt snow immediately. Electric heating only allows heat to travel laterally about one to two inches from the edge of the cable. Therefore, running a small section down the middle will not effectively heat the entire area.

In this picture, we see how to lay out the loose snow melt cable, indicating the spacing for the cable itself. The red dots represent the halfway mark for each cable, ensuring that everything is laid out according to specifications without any excess or shortage. When installing a stairway, it's crucial to maximize the watts per square foot in that area. Additionally, if you plan to install handrails, you must inform us in advance so we can design around them.

When submitting a plan for stairs, please provide the width and depth of the stairs, known as the tread and riser dimensions. This information helps us determine the necessary cable length to cover the stairs adequately. Cable is easier to install in these spaces than using the mesh product. The triangles in the drawing represent the start points for the cables, while the rectangles indicate the endpoints. We aim to position the start points close together for easy conduit access.

It's essential to note the distance from the cable to the edge, as well as the space from the edge to the cable. The cable must be embedded and protected by the pavers. Regarding stairs, it's crucial to minimize or eliminate overhangs, as they can lead to freezing at the front edge due to exposure to air. When designing stairs, ensure that the heating cable is positioned as close to the front edge as possible to maximize melting efficiency.

Before starting the installation, it's vital to test the system. We recommend testing the product as soon as you receive it, so if there are any issues, we can address them promptly. Use a mega ohm meter to test the system before, during, and after installation. This specialized meter sends 500 volts down the wire to ensure that the insulation between the ground and the current-carrying wires is intact, preventing shorts or GFCI trips.

In this picture, we see the gravel layer discussed earlier. It's crucial to have four to eight inches of evenly spread gravel beneath the mat. Any bumps or irregularities can disrupt the installation, so ensure that the gravel is laid out smoothly. If the mats are too far apart, snow may not melt effectively between them. Therefore, maintain a consistent spacing of three inches between the mats, just as the wires are spaced three inches apart.

Here, we see multiple rolls being installed. As demonstrated in the SmartPlan, they should be laid out exactly as designed. Testing should be conducted again at this stage using the mega ohm meter to ensure that all readings are within the acceptable range before covering them with sand or mortar. The black wires shown in the picture are essential for connecting to a junction box. The cold leads are typically 20 feet long, so if they need to reach a junction box, they must be protected by conduit.

The junction boxes are where the cold leads will be routed. Any splices or extensions made to these leads should occur within the junction boxes. The cold leads should be long enough to reach the junction box, as indicated in the SmartPlan. The electrician will drill a hole in the side of the junction box to run conduit to the house, ensuring that the system is properly powered.

Once the cable has been tested and the cold leads are in the junction box, it's time to prepare the surface for the pavers. You will need to lay out sand or mortar on top of the heating cable, ensuring a thickness of one to one and a half inches. The pavers should settle into this layer without touching the heating system. It's acceptable to use a vibrator to compact the sand, but ensure that the pavers are resting in the sand and not directly on the cable.

The completed installation should look beautiful, with the pavers carefully nestled into the sand or mortar layer. It's essential to ensure that the heating cables are completely embedded and not visible before laying the pavers. Now that we've discussed the heating wire, cold leads, and junction boxes, let's talk about how to control the system. The goal is to automate the process so homeowners don't have to manually turn the system on or off during snowstorms.

In this project, they used our advanced snow and ice control system, which includes an aerial sensor. This sensor is typically mounted in an unobstructed location, such as on the roofline, to detect precipitation and temperature. It automatically activates the heating system when conditions are right, ensuring that snow and ice are melted efficiently. The controls also feature a hold-on function, allowing the system to continue heating even after snowfall has stopped to prevent refreezing.

The control panel includes a timer that can be set to adjust the hold-on time, and there is also a manual switch for early activation if snow is expected soon. The sensor has an interdigitated grid that detects moisture, completing the circuit when snow melts and creating a connection. The ambient temperature sensor determines whether the temperature is below 38 degrees, prompting the system to turn on.

For jobs with multiple mats or cables, all wires connect to a relay panel, which acts as the switch for the system. The relay panel receives constant power from the breaker box, and the controller signals it to turn on or off based on the sensor's readings. It's crucial to have a solid brass plaque indicating the presence of electric heating beneath the surface, as required by the National Electrical Code.

The finished project looks fantastic, and homeowners will appreciate the convenience of waking up to a snow-free entrance. It's important to consider that this installation was completed during the summer, allowing for a comfortable working environment. Planning ahead ensures that the system is ready when winter arrives.

Here is a breakdown of the items included in this project. You can see the specific snow melt mats used, their square footage, and the quantity along with their MSRP. The controls utilized, including the advanced snow melt control and aerial sensor, are also listed, along with any necessary accessories like the snow melt plaque and relay panel.

Keep in mind that relay panels are designed for indoor installation only, so they should not be mounted outside. The electrician will supply the necessary wiring to connect from the relays to the junction boxes.

As you prepare for installation, remember the most important tip: ensure that the heating cable does not touch itself at any point. Overlapping or crossing cables can lead to overheating and damage, which may require replacement. Additionally, the length of the heating cable should never be cut or altered. The SmartPlan provides the exact size and length needed for your installation, eliminating the need for adjustments.

If you find yourself with extra cable at the end of the installation, do not cut it off. Instead, adjust the spacing of the cables to use up the length. The minimum bend radius of the cable is two and a half inches, allowing for closer spacing if necessary. If you live in an area with minimal snowfall, you can also consider spacing the cables further apart.

Now is the perfect time to ask any questions you may have. We have received a couple of questions in advance. Lynn, do you have those questions in front of you? If not, I have printed them out.

The first question is about the maximum thickness of material that can be placed on top of the heating system. The answer is that the maximum thickness should not exceed two and a half inches.

The next question pertains to the cost per square foot for the snow melt system. Typically, the cost ranges from $7 to $15 per square foot for the heating element itself, not including the control system. Control packages can range from $525 to $2,799, depending on the type of system and its features.

We also offer a Wi-Fi switch that can be controlled via an app on your phone, though it is not automatic. If you activate it, remember to turn it off manually. For those who are home frequently, a 12-hour timer can be used for manual operation. We provide various control options, from fully manual to fully automated systems.

It appears we do not have any additional questions at this time, but we have addressed the inquiries submitted earlier. Let's move on to discuss our next webinar.

Next month, we will host a webinar on how to find and repair a break in electric floor heating. A common misconception is that if something goes wrong with your product, you must replace the entire floor. We will also discuss how the same techniques used for electric floor heating can be applied to outdoor snow melting systems.

Join us next month for this informative session, which will take place at 1:00 p.m. Central Time. We also offer daily training sessions, often twice a day, where you can ask questions about any of our products or installations.

We provide various services, including Smart Fit, Smart Guide, Smart Install, and Smart Fix. We can assist with measuring, installation guidance via video conferencing, and even on-site repairs in the Chicagoland area.

For our monthly promotion, we are offering 20% off select towel warmers until the end of September. The Riviera towel warmer, a popular model, is included in this promotion, making it a great time to purchase one for warm towels this winter.

We value your feedback and will send an email after this presentation asking for your thoughts on the webinar. We appreciate your comments and suggestions for future topics, as we want to provide information that is relevant to you.

You can contact us by phone from 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Central Time, Monday through Friday, at 800-875-5285. Alternatively, you can email us at info@warmlyyours.com or reach out to our president, Julia, at jbillen@warmlyyours.com. Our website, warmlyyours.com, is a valuable resource with detailed product information, installation videos, and troubleshooting guides.

Finally, we also have a Facebook page where you can find live daily training broadcasts, monthly promotions, and new product launches. If you have questions during your installation, remember that you can reach us 24/7 at 800-875-5285.

Thank you for joining us today. We look forward to seeing you next month, and remember, we are here every day to assist you. Until next time, stay warm and be radiant! Goodbye, everyone.