Tech Tips: Power-Termination of Self-Regulating Deicing Cable in a J-Box for Roof & Gutter or Pipe Freeze Protection

Hello, I'm Scott from WarmlyYours, and today we're going to discuss how to make a power connection for your self-regulating gutter and snow melting cable. We have all the materials for our power connection kit laid out in front of us. Some of these are extra parts that you won't need for this specific task, but they will be included in the bag. We'll go through the process step by step to ensure you can successfully make this connection at the beginning of your self-regulating cable installation.

The first step in making our connection is to attach the weatherproof seal parts onto the cable. It’s crucial to put them on in the correct order to ensure a waterproof seal. Next, grab a ruler or tape measure and mark a spot seven inches down from the end of the cable. Once you have marked this location, carefully score the outer jacket. Be cautious not to cut deeper than necessary; just enough to penetrate the outer layer will suffice. After scoring the jacket, you can remove the outer layer, which will expose the inner components.

Now, take the metal braid and push it back towards your left hand to loosen it slightly. This will allow you to create a loop in the cable that we will pass through a hole made in the braid. It’s important to keep the braid as loose as possible to facilitate this process. Once you have worked the cable through the hole you created, ensure that the braid remains intact while you pull the cable out through the gap. Next, we will focus on the red inner jacket; measure six inches from this point and make a cut. This cut should be just deep enough to access the inner layer, allowing you to remove it similarly to how you did with the outer layer.

At this point, you will see the matrix material, which is essential for the self-regulating cable's functionality. This matrix is responsible for the cable's ability to heat up in certain areas while remaining cooler in others, as it provides resistance that changes with temperature variations. Carefully remove the matrix from the bare wires, ensuring that you expose the two main bus wires located within. Once you can see the metal braid, you can pull the matrix material away from the bus wire on one side. Repeat this process for the other bus wire on the opposite side of the cable.

Now that the bus wires are exposed, we need to remove the matrix material from the section where the wires will be separated. It’s crucial to ensure that the bus wires do not touch each other to avoid creating a short circuit. After removing the matrix, we will insulate these individual bus wires. The next step is to find the two long heat shrink tubes and place one over each bus wire until it makes contact with the matrix on both sides. Once the heat shrink tubes are in place, you should have enough material on each end to create a solid connection.

Using a heat gun, carefully shrink the heat shrink tubing onto the bus wires. It’s important to apply heat from multiple directions to ensure even constriction; focusing on just one side will not yield the best results. After securing the two black heat shrink tubes, the next step is to place the green and yellow heat shrink tube over the ground wire. This insulation will prevent the ground shield from coming into contact with the voltage-carrying bus wires. Once the heat shrink tubing is applied to the ground wire, use the hot air gun again to tighten it securely.

With the heat shrink tubing on the ground and bus wires, we will now take a one-inch piece of heat shrink tubing and place it over both bus wires, centering it so that it overlaps both the red and black wires. Use your hot air gun to ensure the adhesive flows out onto the red wire, indicating that the seal is forming. Concentrate the heat between the two bus wires, and while the tubing is still hot, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to pinch the tubing closed, creating a good seal. The glue should flow out, confirming that we have achieved a waterproof seal.

Now that the heat shrink is securely in place and the bus wires are treated, they are ready to be connected to power. The ground lead is insulated from the bus wires, ensuring safety. It’s time to prepare the weatherproof fittings for installation into our waterproof box. Once the hardware is in place, route the wires into the waterproof box. Next, we will bring in the power supply wire, typically Romex, and route that into the box as well.

With all the wires now inside the box, we can begin pairing them up. Start by attaching the wire from the self-regulating cable using the included wire nuts to make secure connections. Be sure to check your local code to determine if you are permitted to use electrical tape around these connections; if so, this is the right time to apply it. Next, connect the other bus wire to the Romex wire, ensuring a firm connection, followed by the ground connection.

Once all connections are made, we will proceed to create a waterproof seal on this side. After establishing the waterproof connection, place the assembly into the box. Finally, cover the front of the waterproof box with the waterproof cover, securing it with screws and applying a little sealant to ensure it is completely waterproof. Keep in mind that the Romex side will need to be handled according to local regulations, either through conduit or with another waterproof connector, as determined by your electrician. This concludes the process of making your connection from the power supply to the power connection kit for your roof and gutter de-icing self-regulating cable. If you have any further questions, our instructions are available online, or you can contact us at 800-875-5285 or visit us at www.WarmlyYours.com. Thank you for watching!