The Key to a Snow-Free Driveway: Installing a Snow Melt System

Good afternoon everybody and welcome to our monthly webinar. Today's topic is the key to a snow-free driveway: installing a snow melt system. My name is Anna Tolly, and I'm with WarmlyYours tech support. I will have Lynn present herself.

Hi, my name is Lynn, and I am a customer service rep here at WarmlyYours. Thank you very much, Lynn. I will go right away to my second slide here. This webinar is all about us presenting the information that we really want to share, but of course, we are super open to all of you asking us questions. You can easily do that if you're watching us on the Crowdcast platform. Just go to the "Ask a Question" button at the bottom, type your question, and it will be simple and easy to get those questions sent to us. Alternatively, you can utilize the chat area on the right side of your screen to type in your question. We'll see that right away and start answering it, either during the particular slide we are on or when a related topic comes up.

Knowing all that, I will hand it over to Lynn to start with our outline. Sure! Today's webinar is obviously about our snow melting systems. We will go over the system itself and what it comprises, and then we will show you an example project that someone recently installed and was kind enough to send us pictures of. We will walk you through that and all the installation steps that went into it, and we will also touch on all of our control options as well.

Jumping right into our snow melting systems, these are designed to be embedded in concrete, asphalt, or the mortar or sand under pavers. They evenly heat the surface of the driveway or whatever area you are planning to install it in, effectively melting snow and ice to create a clean, snow-free area. The systems can be designed to turn on automatically when the temperature is low enough and there is precipitation, or you can use a control to manually turn it on and off. We have two different options available: our snow melting cable or our snow melting mat, which is essentially the cable on a mesh that can be rolled out, cut, and turned as needed.

Thank you very much, Lynn. I would like to quickly add here that a common question we receive in tech support is about the difference between the cable and the mat, or when to use one versus the other. Technically speaking, the loose cable you see on the screen is the same heating element that is already pre-spaced and pre-attached in the snow melting mat at the bottom of the screen. For larger rectangular areas, the snow melting mat is quicker and easier to work with because you can unroll it and cover a large area efficiently. The snow melt cable, on the other hand, is better suited for areas like stairs or any odd shapes, such as walkways or sidewalks that have diagonal sides or curved paths. This flexibility allows for more precise coverage.

Moving on to the next slide, as Lynn mentioned, we will discuss a specific project example. The first shot is from a project that was completed nearby recently. The general approach to installing a snow melt system in asphalt involves embedding the heating mat between two layers of asphalt to ensure efficient melting and heat transfer to the top surface. The snow melting mat should be installed with two inches of asphalt on top and two inches on the bottom, creating a middle position that we will showcase in the next slide, which illustrates the asphalt cross-section for snow melting.

The installation process begins with a compacted gravel base, which should be four to twelve inches deep, depending on the specific application. The base coat of asphalt is then applied, typically a minimum of two inches thick, although two to three inches is common. Once this layer is complete, you can plan to install the snow melting mat according to the layout. After the mats are installed and secured, the final layer of asphalt is applied, again typically two to three inches thick.

This project involved a heated asphalt driveway, and we can show you exactly which products our customers used and how it was all laid out. They utilized a 240-volt snow melting mat, as we offer both 120 and 240-volt options. The project overview, which we provide when you request a quote and a SmartPlan, includes all of the power requirements, dimensions, and operating costs. For this project, they heated a total area of 488 square feet, with about 469 square feet actually heated. The total wattage was just over 21,000 watts, with an average of 88.55 watts per square foot.

Despite the large space to heat, the operating cost remained low, as these systems are incredibly efficient. For an hour of heating, it cost approximately $2.13, and if you were heating for about eight hours during a snowfall, the total would be around $17. This information is useful for anyone planning a similar area, providing a good ballpark figure for the electrical requirements of the system.

We received a question from Fran ahead of time that pairs nicely with this slide, asking about electrical needs or power amounts. If your area is 488 square feet, these numbers can help you figure out your electrical requirements for any custom area you plan to install. You can use our Code Builder tool, which will recommend products based on your area or square footage and provide an electrical overview. Additionally, our operating cost calculator allows you to enter your square footage to calculate how much it will cost to operate the system.

A simple way to calculate your electrical needs is to multiply your square footage by 50 watts per square foot, as our snow melting pads deliver 50 watts per square foot. For example, if your area is about 100 square feet, multiplying by 50 will give you the total wattage needed, which is typically what an electrician would require to finalize the installation numbers. Thank you for that great question, Fran. We hope it answers your inquiry, and you can definitely check out those additional tools available on our website.

Let's move on to the next slide, which covers our SmartPlan. This is something we provide with every project. We call it SmartPlan because it encompasses more than just a layout; it includes your electrical configuration and the locations for junction boxes. This slide shows a main part of the layout, but every SmartPlan comes with a footer table that provides even more information, such as electrical details, costs, and the controllers being used. This information is critical for the installer on-site to ensure everything is done correctly.

The SmartPlan includes the configuration and all the mats that need to be installed. For example, mat number one, shown in pink, is two feet by 20 feet. Since our driveway is 20 feet wide, this mat fits perfectly, starting where the triangle is and running all the way to the end where the square is. Mats number six and seven are 40 feet long, requiring a turn. When making a turn, you simply cut the mesh without cutting the wire, turning the mat 180 degrees or making a U-turn to cover the remaining area.

Mats number four and five are straightforward; they start at the bottom and run straight up to cover the area. Mat number three is slightly more complex, as it requires running for seven feet, six inches, then removing the mesh without cutting the wire to create a free-form heating element that transitions around a fixture. This layout is not the easiest due to the free forms and turns, but if the layout is simpler, where mats can be used in their full length without cutting, the installation could be even easier.

Once you send us a simple sketch or plan with dimensions and the shape of the area, our design team will prepare the SmartPlan for you. This helps with installation, ensures the proper materials are selected, and keeps the project on track. When the plan is finalized, it will eventually lead to the installation date. At this point, it's essential to have an electrician on-site to conduct testing. It is advisable to test before and after every major step of the installation.

When you receive the product, you should test it to ensure everything is functioning correctly. During the dry layout phase, it's crucial to test again to confirm that everything fits well. This constant testing is important because if something is damaged during installation, you will want to know immediately to access the heating mat or cable quickly. Testing should be done with a digital multimeter and a megohm meter, and you will have a product label to compare those numbers, along with a warranty card to record your testing results.

Returning to the cross-section, I will hand it over to Lynn. This picture illustrates every step of the installation process from a different perspective. You can see the four to eight inches of crushed aggregate, which can vary depending on your project. The base layer of asphalt should be one and a half to three inches thick, with the snow melting system and a final layer of two to three inches of asphalt on top.

It is crucial to ensure that the gravel layer is spread evenly to provide a solid foundation for the asphalt layer. The gravel should be between four to eight inches thick, but it can be up to a foot thick in high-traffic areas. The base layer should be at least two inches thick to provide a solid footing, while the top layer should not exceed two inches to allow for proper heat transfer. It is essential to avoid using a paving machine for the top layer, as it can damage the heating elements. Instead, hand shoveling and a rolling machine should be used, as shown in the picture.

A handy tip is to cover the edges of shovels with duct tape to prevent sharp edges from damaging the heating wire underneath. Thank you, Lynn. Those are indeed important tips because the last thing you want is to damage the heating mat after completing all the installation steps. We received a question from Charlotte ahead of time about the typical installation process duration and any preparatory steps needed before demolition or installation. Each installation is different, and there is no set number of days based on size.

In general, you should ensure that the old surface is removed, which typically takes a day, depending on the installation size. Proper layers of gravel should be in place for a couple of days before the actual installation day. This allows the electrician to prepare the conduit work. Each project will differ, but this step helps ensure the electrician is ready for the heating mat installation and routing the leads. The electrician will need to be on-site for at least two days: one for preparation and one for installation to conduct testing and final wiring.

We also have a question from Keon about the availability of the presentation for download later. Olivia has already responded in our answering portal, but yes, we can definitely make the slides available and follow up with an email to get those sent out.

Now, let's return to the next slide. Snow melting mats must be installed according to the SmartPlan. Our designers spend extra time ensuring that the layout is correct, the mat sizes are appropriate, and everything fits perfectly. It is crucial not to lay the mats in a way or shape you want, as this may create problems later if some areas are not covered correctly. Following the SmartPlan is key. In this photo, the installers are using a longer 40-foot mat, cutting the mesh in half to hold a 20-foot strip that will go one direction, then make a U-turn and head back to cover that segment of the area.

As soon as the heating mat is laid down, it's a good time to conduct another test to ensure nothing was cut or damaged. The cold lead should then be routed into the junction box shown below. Speaking of the junction box, we will jump to the next slide for more detail. Here you can see that all the leads end up in the junction box, where the electrician will extend these leads and run them with their own wire to the indoor power source.

It is crucial to plan this part of the project correctly to avoid having multiple junction boxes scattered across the area. Instead, aim for a centralized location to run as many leads as possible. Now, let's discuss the controls used in this project. This particular project utilized our premium snow and ice control, which comes with a snow melting aerial sensor. This means it can be fully automated, turning on when the aerial sensor detects that the temperature is below a set point, usually between 38 and 40 degrees, and there is precipitation like snow or ice.

Once it detects that the snow has stopped or the temperature rises above a certain point, it will turn off. However, it has a hold-on feature or after-run time to continue melting, ensuring that any remaining snow does not refreeze and create an ice rink in your driveway. The aerial sensor detects falling or blowing snow, activating the system as needed.

Lynn, you provided a great explanation that also addressed additional questions we had from Chip about how the system is controlled and whether it uses a thermostat. As you mentioned, it is not a thermostat; instead, it is a specific snow melt controller that utilizes a snow sensor. You want to trigger the system based on snowfall and temperature below 38 degrees, ensuring it operates when needed and remains effective.

Now, let's look at slide number 16, which presents a typical wiring diagram. This diagram does not show exact wire connections but illustrates the components and how they interact. Starting with the aerial-mounted sensor, it detects precipitation and temperature. When the temperature drops below 38 degrees and snow is detected, it sends a signal to the controller. The controller then signals the relay panel, which closes the contacts and sends power through the junction box to your heating mats.

The breaker panel provides power to the controller, relay panel, and mats. Inside, there is also an optional remote control override that can be mounted in a convenient location for easy access. This allows manual control of the system if needed. Additionally, the premium controller includes a high-temperature limit sensor that monitors the average temperature between the heating cables, ensuring the system does not overheat and protecting the asphalt while maintaining efficiency.

This information should address Jim's earlier question about wiring. If you have further inquiries, please feel free to reach out, and we will gladly assist you. Now, I will hand it back to Lynn to finish up the project overview.

As you can see, this is the finished project, which looks great in the summertime or springtime. Once the snow falls, it will remain completely clean and dry. You can view this and many other project showcases on our website's project showcase page, WarmlyYours.com, where we will also have a video of the full installation.

We will now play a quick video that covers the overall application, providing text boxes to explain what is happening at each step. The video is about two minutes long, so you should be able to watch it now. You will see that the asphalt is spread manually without using machines over the heating mats. Once the second layer is complete, the rolling machine is used.

This close-up view shows the junction box where all the leads are connected to the relay panel. That concludes the video, and we apologize if it was a bit choppy on your end; we will work to improve that for future presentations.

I see we have a question from Chip about the typical lifespan of the system. The typical lifespan of the system is generally the same or even longer than the driveway itself. As long as it is installed correctly, tested, and not damaged during installation, and fully encapsulated without shifting, your system should outlast the driveway. By the time the driveway needs replacement, the system should still be in great shape.

Chip also asked about repairability if there are cracks or compromised wires five years down the road. The answer is yes; it is definitely repairable. We have tools to locate the problem, such as a troubleshooting kit with a thermal camera that can visually detect hotspots. We also provide instructional videos on how to repair the wire, ensuring the system can be restored to working order.

Another question from Justin inquires about how much weight the system can hold without damage. This depends on the proper cross-section of the asphalt, as the weight capacity is determined by the paving contractor's specifications. As long as the system is intact and not compromised by cracking or shifting, it will hold as much weight as the driveway itself. If you anticipate heavy machinery or traffic, it's essential to plan accordingly with your paving professional to ensure the proper base and asphalt layers are in place.

Now, let's return to Lynn to discuss the project cost breakdown.

We are breaking this down by the heating element, controls, and accessories used in this project. The heating element includes the mats themselves, and you can see their MSRP listed. The controls and accessories, including the snow melting plaque, which is a small bronze plaque installed in the pavement to indicate the presence of an electrical system, are also included. The total cost for this project comes to $6,951.

I will now share some tips for asphalt with snow melt systems. Ensure you have a megohm meter to properly test the heating elements. Electricians should use this tool to test insulation resistance at 500 volts, in addition to their regular digital multimeter. If electricians have questions about tools or testing, they can reach out to us for guidance, as all testing is outlined in the installation manual.

As Lynn mentioned, using duct tape on the edges of shovels is crucial to prevent damage to the heating mat. Additionally, avoid walking on or bending the factory splices, which are the connections between the heating element and the cold lead. These connections have extra protection, but bending them can compromise their integrity. Minimize traffic on the wires and avoid dropping heavy objects on them.

As we approach the end of our presentation, this is a great time to send in any final questions. I see we have a question from Rob about other paving materials that are permeable to water flow. This is a great question, as permeable paver installations are becoming more popular in the electric snow melting industry.

One example is outlined in Hardscape Magazine, where a project involved a specific layering method. The installation began with a base layer, followed by four inches of number 57 stone and two inches of number nine stone, which served as the paver setting bed. The heating cable was installed within the number nine stone layer to maximize heat transfer. It is essential to ensure there are no air gaps, as these hinder heat transfer.

The stone separating the cable and pavers should have maximum contact with both to ensure efficient heat transfer. Crushed stone with fines is not typically used in permeable installations due to drainage issues. Instead, smaller drainage stone, like number nine, is preferred for its better contact with the cable.

If you have a project in mind, please reach out to us, and we will be happy to schedule a meeting to discuss your specific installation and ensure the correct layers are used for optimal performance.

Now, let’s address Jerry’s question about parking lot warming for ice and snow. Yes, it is absolutely doable, but larger parking lots will require a significant amount of electricity. If you are considering a large project, please reach out to us for assistance. We can help you ensure that you have the necessary power requirements and provide additional details for your project.

Finally, I would like to remind you about our next webinar, which will take place on May 13th at 1 o'clock central time. The topic will be "Adding Luxury to Any Home with Luxury Vinyl Tile and Floor Heating." If you are interested in working with LVT and floor heating, be sure to join us for that session.

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