Infrared Thermal Camera #7 - FLIR E4 Serial 63928513

Yes. The floor never free-runs — the thermostat’s floor sensor governs output, and you set a maximum floor temperature limit in the thermostat itself. Most heated tile bathroom floors are set between 80°F and 85°F. Set that limit during commissioning and record it on the handoff sheet so the homeowner does not raise it past the flooring manufacturer’s rated maximum.

Yes, but the tear-out is the real risk. Scan the floor with thermal imaging before demo to map the existing hydronic tubing, and never fasten or drill into it. Keep the two systems on fully independent controls so they cannot fight each other, and do not place the electric floor sensor directly above a hydronic loop — the false-high reading will short-cycle the electric system. Call PRO technical support at 800-875-5285 to review the assembly before ordering.

No. Electric floor heating cable is listed for installation under floor coverings only, and NEC 424.38(A) does not permit heating cable to be installed in walls. Running it vertically voids both the UL listing and the warranty. For warm towels and a little extra room heat, specify a heated towel rack, which is designed and listed for wall mounting.

No separate GFCI breaker is required — every WarmlyYours thermostat has a built-in Class A (5mA) GFCI. Stacking a GFCI breaker on top of it is one of the most common causes of nuisance tripping. Run a dedicated breaker sized to the load at 80% continuous duty: a 15A circuit carries up to 1,440W at 120V, a 20A circuit up to 1,920W. Loads beyond the thermostat’s 15A rating need a power module or relay.

The best home features for cold climates include a simple gable roof to shed snow, covered entrances for protection, airtight triple-pane windows to prevent heat loss, and radiant heating systems. These features work together to maintain interior warmth, reduce energy bills by up to 25%, and ensure structural safety during harsh winters.