Transformer 300VA 20sqft Q-Tran (TR-300VA-Q)

In theory, it is possible, if no other options are available. We do not recommend it, but If the thermostat is controlling the floor temperature with a floor sensor, then it can go on an exterior wall. It is important that the floor sensor gets located in an area of the floor not hit by sunshine.

If the thermostat will be controlling the air temperature with the built-in ambient sensor, then it should go on an interior wall.

A GFCI/GFEP (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter / Ground Fault Equipment Protection) works differently than a circuit breaker by specifically detecting a small imbalance in electrical current between the hot and neutral wires, which indicates a potential ground fault (like a person touching a live wire), and instantly shutting off the power to prevent shock, while a circuit breaker only trips when there's a significant overload in current flow on the circuit, like a short circuit or too many appliances plugged in.

Relays can fail due to excessive current or voltage. When a relay is exposed to too much current, the contacts can burn out. High voltage can also damage the coil. Other reasons include mechanical wear and tear, dust or dirt buildup, and moisture. These factors can cause the relay to malfunction or stop working entirely. Regular maintenance and using the relay within its specified limits can help prevent failures.

No, a circuit breaker will NOT protect against a power surge; a circuit breakers primary function is to protect against excessive current flow (overload), while a surge protector is specifically designed to handle voltage spikes, which are what power surges are considered to be.

If your floor is not heating and your thermostat is functioning properly, test to see if proper voltages are present at the transformer.  If 24 VAC is not being returned by the transformer, then it either needs to be replaced or checked to ensure that the internal secondary circuit breakers have not been tripped and are functioning properly.  Contact WarmlyYours technical support at 1-800-875-5285 for further assistance.

Yes. The floor never free-runs — the thermostat’s floor sensor governs output, and you set a maximum floor temperature limit in the thermostat itself. Most heated tile bathroom floors are set between 80°F and 85°F. Set that limit during commissioning and record it on the handoff sheet so the homeowner does not raise it past the flooring manufacturer’s rated maximum.

Yes, but the tear-out is the real risk. Scan the floor with thermal imaging before demo to map the existing hydronic tubing, and never fasten or drill into it. Keep the two systems on fully independent controls so they cannot fight each other, and do not place the electric floor sensor directly above a hydronic loop — the false-high reading will short-cycle the electric system. Call PRO technical support at 800-875-5285 to review the assembly before ordering.

No. Electric floor heating cable is listed for installation under floor coverings only, and NEC 424.38(A) does not permit heating cable to be installed in walls. Running it vertically voids both the UL listing and the warranty. For warm towels and a little extra room heat, specify a heated towel rack, which is designed and listed for wall mounting.

No separate GFCI breaker is required — every WarmlyYours thermostat has a built-in Class A (5mA) GFCI. Stacking a GFCI breaker on top of it is one of the most common causes of nuisance tripping. Run a dedicated breaker sized to the load at 80% continuous duty: a 15A circuit carries up to 1,440W at 120V, a 20A circuit up to 1,920W. Loads beyond the thermostat’s 15A rating need a power module or relay.

The best home features for cold climates include a simple gable roof to shed snow, covered entrances for protection, airtight triple-pane windows to prevent heat loss, and radiant heating systems. These features work together to maintain interior warmth, reduce energy bills by up to 25%, and ensure structural safety during harsh winters.