Thermostat Prog Honeywell 120V

The breaker and wire sizes are selected based on the total amperage of the WarmlyYours heating system connected to a single thermostat. This information is on the WarmlyYours heating system's installation plan, electrical plan, or UL label. Based on guidelines from the National Electrical Code: loads up to 16 Amps may utilize 12 gauge wire with a 20-Amp breaker, and loads up to 12 Amps - 14 gauge wire with a 15-Amp breaker. Local code and/or other factors may change these guidelines.

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One thermostat can control multiple heating mats/cables as long as all the heating elements are using less than 15 amps:

TempZone™ will cover aprx. 120 sq. ft. for 120V systems and 240 sq. ft. for 240V systems on one thermostat.

Environ™ will cover aprx. 150 sq. ft. for 120V systems and 300 sq. ft. for 240V systems on one thermostat.

Slab Heat will cover aprx. 90 sq. ft. for 120V systems and 180 sq. ft. for 240V systems on one thermostat.

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When the ground fault protection mechanism trips, the TEST light is On (red). To reset the ground fault protection, switch the thermostat to Off and back to On. The TEST light will turn off.

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Press the MOD/RET button. Manual is indicated with a hand icon, and Automatic is indicated with a clock icon.

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Set the COMFORT temp of the final period of the day starting at the desired time with the corresponding ECONOMY temp ending at 12:00 pm. Then on the first period of the next day, set the COMFORT temp of the first period at 00:15 am with the corresponding ECONOMY temp ending at the desired time.

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Warmly Yours recommends running the floor heating system in F (Floor) mode for most homes. This provides the most efficient operation of the floor heating system and the best protection for the floor covering material that has been installed.

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All thermostats are mandated at 42" height for handicap accessibility, most private residences are mounted at 52-60".

Please see this video on how to install a WarmlyYours nSpiration Series thermostat.

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No, the RC-40AMP is controlled by a line voltage (120V/240V) thermostat.

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Turn the power (circuit breaker typically) to the thermostat off for 5 minutes and then back on to reset the thermostat.

If there is power to the thermostat and it still doesn't appear to work, then the next step toward a solution is to take Ohm measurements of the floor heating system.

This is done with a digital multi-meter that can select a low 200 Ohm (Ω) scale. To conduct this test, turn off the circuit breaker. Remove the thermostat completely from the wall and disconnect the wires connected to the LOAD connections at the back of the thermostat. Disconnect the ground wires from the house ground, and do the test shown on the links below. If you are uncomfortable doing this test, contact a qualified electrician.

Please follow one of these guides based on the type of heating system installed:

TempZone Single Conductor

TempZone Twin Conductor

For a quick overview of the testing process:

Here is a video showing how the test is done

Here is a video showing how to locate and identify the floor heating wires

If the system still does not function, contact +1 (800) 875-5285 WarmlyYours Technical Support and provide the Ohm measurements for further assistance.

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Warmly Yours has developed this Quick Programming Guide to simplify operation. The full capabilities can be found in the Owner's Guide, or you can view this video for a great tutorial.

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Press and hold the DAY button for 3 seconds. All 7 days will then appear on the screen. Use the HOUR, MIN and PGM buttons to establish the desired schedule.

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These are set with the configuration (dip) switches on the back of the faceplate. See the TH115 Owner's Guide for details or this article for more information.

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The manufacturer reversed the wiring pattern between the LOAD side and the LINE side on newly minted controllers, verify that your wiring matches the new wiring schematic stamped on the backplate of the new controller.

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Reflective insulation is not effective with conductive heating, which is how embedded floor heating and snow-melting systems transfer heat. To be effective, the reflective insulation surface needs to face an air space (air gap), which allows the reflected heat to be redirected.

An effective solution considers the insulating material's R-Value. This is the rating of a material's insulating properties. The "R" stands for "resistance" and refers to the material's resistance to heat flow, or temperature conduction.

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Class A for all new orders, Class B if replacing a Class B unit.

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A GFCI/GFEP (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter / Ground Fault Equipment Protection) works differently than a circuit breaker by specifically detecting a small imbalance in electrical current between the hot and neutral wires, which indicates a potential ground fault (like a person touching a live wire), and instantly shutting off the power to prevent shock, while a circuit breaker only trips when there's a significant overload in current flow on the circuit, like a short circuit or too many appliances plugged in.

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That is the sound the thermostat makes when the relay is either opened or closed to turn on or off the power to the floor heating elements. See this article for further information.

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Warmly Yours controllers incorporate built-in Class A GFCI protection for all new floor heating systems.  Class A GFCI provides personnel protection and trips when ground fault current exceeds 5 mA (milliamps).  Class B GFCI protection is pretty much obsolete, but older systems may still require it.  Warmly Yours controllers with built-in Class B GFCI provide equipment and circuit protection and operates when a fault to ground exceeds 15 mA.

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There is no factory reset of the thermostat. To effect a system reset, power it off and then back on at the circuit breaker.

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The ground wire in the floor mat must be connected directly to the ground wire of the supply or to the house ground wire.

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The flashing digits indicate that the actual (measured) floor temperature exceeds the thermostat temperature limit.

The temperature limit is set for either tile (104°F/40°C) or laminate (82°F/28°C) when the thermostat is first set up or re-configured.

For example: When the floor type (protection) is set to laminate, the limit defaults to 82°F/28°C. If the floor temperature goes above this - whether due to radiant floor heating or external heating sources, then the digits will flash and the heating is switched off.

Turning the temperature up or down will not affect the flashing digits. And leaving the thermostat alone with flashing digits does not harm the system.

Tip: To turn off the heated floor (ex. for months when it is not needed), on the outer edge of the thermostat, depress the lower right side button for 3-5 seconds. This will also turn it back on.

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Relays can fail due to excessive current or voltage. When a relay is exposed to too much current, the contacts can burn out. High voltage can also damage the coil. Other reasons include mechanical wear and tear, dust or dirt buildup, and moisture. These factors can cause the relay to malfunction or stop working entirely. Regular maintenance and using the relay within its specified limits can help prevent failures.

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GFCI can fail for various reasons, such as wear and tear, moisture, corrosion, power surges, faulty wiring, or improper installation. Some of these causes can be prevented by regular inspection and maintenance, while others may require professional assistance. It is important to note that GFCI devices (ex. thermostat, breakers, outlets) should be tested regularly as these do wear out over time.

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If your thermostat is blank, the first thing to do is to test to see if voltage is present at the rear of the thermostat. If no power is reaching the thermostat, please inspect the circuit breaker powering the thermostat in the breaker panel, and verify that the breaker is a non-GFCI type. If it is a GFCI breaker, replace it with a non-GFCI breaker. If there is power entering the thermostat and it is blank, it will need to be replaced.

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No, a circuit breaker will NOT protect against a power surge; a circuit breakers primary function is to protect against excessive current flow (overload), while a surge protector is specifically designed to handle voltage spikes, which are what power surges are considered to be.

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