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Aube Programmable Thermostats (TH111 series)

Aube Programmable Thermostats (TH111 series)

This support page provides publications, manuals, videos, and common support questions for the TH111 series product line.

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Support Questions

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To prevent any melting, ensure that the heating wire is at least 4” from the toilet wax ring.

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The breaker and wire sizes are selected based on the total amperage of the WarmlyYours heating system connected to a single thermostat. This information is on the WarmlyYours heating system's installation plan, electrical plan, or UL label. Based on guidelines from the National Electrical Code: loads up to 16 Amps may utilize 12 gauge wire with a 20-Amp breaker, and loads up to 12 Amps - 14 gauge wire with a 15-Amp breaker. Local code and/or other factors may change these guidelines.

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In theory, it is possible, if no other options are available. We do not recommend it, but If the thermostat is controlling the floor temperature with a floor sensor, then it can go on an exterior wall. It is important that the floor sensor gets located in an area of the floor not hit by sunshine.

If the thermostat will be controlling the air temperature with the built-in ambient sensor, then it should go on an interior wall.

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A GFCI/GFEP (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter / Ground Fault Equipment Protection) works differently than a circuit breaker by specifically detecting a small imbalance in electrical current between the hot and neutral wires, which indicates a potential ground fault (like a person touching a live wire), and instantly shutting off the power to prevent shock, while a circuit breaker only trips when there's a significant overload in current flow on the circuit, like a short circuit or too many appliances plugged in.

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The ground wire in the floor mat must be connected directly to the ground wire of the supply or to the house ground wire.

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Relays can fail due to excessive current or voltage. When a relay is exposed to too much current, the contacts can burn out. High voltage can also damage the coil. Other reasons include mechanical wear and tear, dust or dirt buildup, and moisture. These factors can cause the relay to malfunction or stop working entirely. Regular maintenance and using the relay within its specified limits can help prevent failures.

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If your thermostat is blank, the first thing to do is to test to see if voltage is present at the rear of the thermostat. If no power is reaching the thermostat, please inspect the circuit breaker powering the thermostat in the breaker panel, and verify that the breaker is a non-GFCI type. If it is a GFCI breaker, replace it with a non-GFCI breaker. If there is power entering the thermostat and it is blank, it will need to be replaced.

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Turn off at the circuit breaker.  Alternatively, the TH111 can be put in vacation mode by simultaneously pressing the sun and moon buttons.  To program the vacation temperature, select the desired degree and press on the sun and moon buttons simultaneously (aprx. 3 seconds) until the suitcase icon is displayed.

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Reflective insulation is not effective with conductive heating, which is how embedded floor heating and snow-melting systems transfer heat. To be effective, the reflective insulation surface needs to face an air space (air gap), which allows the reflected heat to be redirected.

An effective solution considers the insulating material's R-Value. This is the rating of a material's insulating properties. The "R" stands for "resistance" and refers to the material's resistance to heat flow, or temperature conduction.

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No, a circuit breaker will NOT protect against a power surge; a circuit breakers primary function is to protect against excessive current flow (overload), while a surge protector is specifically designed to handle voltage spikes, which are what power surges are considered to be.

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The flashing digits indicate that the actual (measured) floor temperature exceeds the thermostat temperature limit.

The temperature limit is set for either tile (104°F/40°C) or laminate (82°F/28°C) when the thermostat is first set up or re-configured.

For example: When the floor type (protection) is set to laminate, the limit defaults to 82°F/28°C. If the floor temperature goes above this - whether due to radiant floor heating or external heating sources, then the digits will flash and the heating is switched off.

Turning the temperature up or down will not affect the flashing digits. And leaving the thermostat alone with flashing digits does not harm the system.

Tip: To turn off the heated floor (ex. for months when it is not needed), on the outer edge of the thermostat, depress the lower right side button for 3-5 seconds. This will also turn it back on.

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Yes, many homeowners successfully install bathroom floor heating systems themselves. WarmlyYours provides detailed installation manuals, 24/7 technical support, and custom installation plans to guide you through the process. However, a licensed electrician is required to perform the final electrical connections and thermostat wiring to ensure safety and warranty compliance.

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Yes. The floor never free-runs — the thermostat’s floor sensor governs output, and you set a maximum floor temperature limit in the thermostat itself. Most heated tile bathroom floors are set between 80°F and 85°F. Set that limit during commissioning and record it on the handoff sheet so the homeowner does not raise it past the flooring manufacturer’s rated maximum.

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Yes, electric radiant floor heating can maintain a cozy 70°F even when outside temperatures drop well below zero. By heating the objects and people in a room directly, a properly sized and insulated system provides reliable, consistent warmth that outperforms traditional forced-air systems during extreme Midwestern winters.

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Yes, but the tear-out is the real risk. Scan the floor with thermal imaging before demo to map the existing hydronic tubing, and never fasten or drill into it. Keep the two systems on fully independent controls so they cannot fight each other, and do not place the electric floor sensor directly above a hydronic loop — the false-high reading will short-cycle the electric system. Call PRO technical support at 800-875-5285 to review the assembly before ordering.

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No. Electric floor heating cable is listed for installation under floor coverings only, and NEC 424.38(A) does not permit heating cable to be installed in walls. Running it vertically voids both the UL listing and the warranty. For warm towels and a little extra room heat, specify a heated towel rack, which is designed and listed for wall mounting.

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Yes, radiant floor heating can be a primary heat source if its heat output exceeds the room's heat loss. For best results, we recommend using a 15-watt system, covering at least 80% of the floor, and ensuring the space is well-insulated. Use our Heat Loss Calculator to verify your specific needs.

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Yes, radiant floor heating is an excellent primary heat source for tiny houses in mild to moderate climates. Because tiny houses have small footprints, the 15-watt output of TempZone™ can easily maintain comfort while saving valuable wall space. Ensure the structure is well-insulated and use our Heat Loss Calculator to confirm.

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No, the RC-40AMP is controlled by a line voltage (120V/240V) thermostat.

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Yes, bedroom floor heating can be a DIY project. Systems like TempZone Easy Mats or Environ Flex Rolls are designed for straightforward installation under various flooring types. While you can lay the heating elements and flooring yourself, you must hire a certified electrician to connect the system to power and install the thermostat.

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Yes, we strongly recommend installing insulation like ThermalSheet™ over concrete slabs. Concrete acts as a "heat sink," absorbing warmth that should go to your floor. Insulation directs the heat upward, significantly improving efficiency, reducing warm-up times, and allowing the system to function effectively as a primary heat source.

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Underlayment is recommended for floating floors (laminate, LVP, wood) and installations over cold subfloors like concrete. It provides thermal insulation to prevent heat loss and improves system efficiency. For tile and stone, the system is typically embedded in thinset, so a separate underlayment is often unnecessary.

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No separate GFCI breaker is required — every WarmlyYours thermostat has a built-in Class A (5mA) GFCI. Stacking a GFCI breaker on top of it is one of the most common causes of nuisance tripping. Run a dedicated breaker sized to the load at 80% continuous duty: a 15A circuit carries up to 1,440W at 120V, a 20A circuit up to 1,920W. Loads beyond the thermostat’s 15A rating need a power module or relay.

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To prepare a basement for radiant heating, ensure the concrete subfloor is level, clean, and free of debris. It is highly recommended to install a thermal break, like WarmlyYours CeraZorb, over the slab to prevent heat loss into the ground. Finally, verify that your electrical panel has sufficient capacity for the system's requirements.

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Because radiant systems have a thermal lag, you should increase your thermostat set point 12-24 hours before an extreme cold snap arrives. This proactive adjustment, combined with ensuring your home is well-insulated, helps your system maintain a steady, comfortable temperature without struggling to catch up.

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Yes, electric radiant floor heating is ideal for basements because it warms the cold concrete slab and provides consistent heat from the ground up. In well-insulated finished basements, it can serve as the primary heat source, turning a typically chilly space into a comfortable, year-round living area.

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Radiant floor heating can heat a sunroom if the space has high-quality insulation and double-pane glass. Since sunrooms have high heat loss, a 15-watt system is essential. In extremely cold climates or poorly insulated sunrooms, it is best used as a supplemental source to keep the floor comfortable.

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Radiant heating is often more efficient because it eliminates the "blast and fade" cycles and noisy ductwork of forced-air furnaces. By providing steady, low-level heat that doesn't escape to the ceiling, it creates a more consistent "barefoot sanctuary" while potentially reducing your overall energy consumption.

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Yes, radiant heating is highly efficient in cold weather. Unlike forced-air systems that lose heat through ductwork and rising air, radiant heat warms objects directly via far-infrared energy. This method is up to 45% more energy-efficient, providing consistent comfort while significantly lowering monthly heating costs in frigid environments.

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For the same wattage and operating time, 120V and 240V electric floor heating use the same amount of energy and produce the same heat. A 240V system draws less current for the same wattage, which can accommodate a larger heated area on a suitable circuit. Choose the heating product and control voltage to match the supply, and have an electrician verify circuit capacity, wiring, and applicable code.

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The best home features for cold climates include a simple gable roof to shed snow, covered entrances for protection, airtight triple-pane windows to prevent heat loss, and radiant heating systems. These features work together to maintain interior warmth, reduce energy bills by up to 25%, and ensure structural safety during harsh winters.

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For maximum barefoot comfort, most systems are designed to reach a floor surface temperature of 80°F to 85°F. This "sweet spot" ensures your room stays warm through efficient radiation while keeping the floor perfectly comfortable to walk on, even during the coldest months of the year.

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A heat loss calculation is essential to ensure your radiant system produces more BTUs than your room loses to the outside environment. This professional assessment guarantees your system has the necessary power to serve as your primary heat source, providing peace of mind during record-breaking cold.

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GFCI can fail for various reasons, such as wear and tear, moisture, corrosion, power surges, faulty wiring, or improper installation. Some of these causes can be prevented by regular inspection and maintenance, while others may require professional assistance. It is important to note that GFCI devices (ex. thermostat, breakers, outlets) should be tested regularly as these do wear out over time.

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Bedroom floor heating is popular because it provides consistent, draft-free warmth that enhances comfort in a space where people often walk barefoot. It eliminates cold spots, operates silently, and is highly energy-efficient. Additionally, radiant heat doesn't circulate dust or allergens, contributing to a healthier sleeping environment compared to forced-air systems.

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A floor sensor measures floor temperature so a compatible thermostat can regulate comfort and enforce the flooring manufacturer’s temperature limit. Some thermostats, including nTrust 2.0, offer a regulator mode without a sensor, but that mode does not measure floor temperature. Use sensor-based temperature control whenever required by the flooring or heating-system instructions.

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