TempZone™ Floor Heating Ruler Cable 240V, (3.7W/ft.), 315 ft., 4.9A

A digital meter with a 0-200 Ohms scale ( Ω ) to measure the heating wire's resistance, and a 20K scale to measure the sensor's resistance.

Yes, the sensor wires may be trimmed.  Most local code requirements call for 6“-7“ of extra wire from the gang box.

Yes. The finish layer needs to be 1/2" thick. This can be done if the brand of Self-Leveling Cement (SLC) is engineered to be a final flooring surface.  Most SLC products aren't designed to be the finish surface.

Yes, radiant floor heating can be a primary heat source if its heat output exceeds the room's heat loss. For best results, we recommend using a 15-watt system, covering at least 80% of the floor, and ensuring the space is well-insulated. Use our Heat Loss Calculator to verify your specific needs.

Yes, radiant floor heating is an excellent primary heat source for tiny houses in mild to moderate climates. Because tiny houses have small footprints, the 15-watt output of TempZone™ can easily maintain comfort while saving valuable wall space. Ensure the structure is well-insulated and use our Heat Loss Calculator to confirm.

Yes, we strongly recommend installing insulation like ThermalSheet™ over concrete slabs. Concrete acts as a "heat sink," absorbing warmth that should go to your floor. Insulation directs the heat upward, significantly improving efficiency, reducing warm-up times, and allowing the system to function effectively as a primary heat source.

Underlayment is recommended for floating floors (laminate, LVP, wood) and installations over cold subfloors like concrete. It provides thermal insulation to prevent heat loss and improves system efficiency. For tile and stone, the system is typically embedded in thinset, so a separate underlayment is often unnecessary.

Single Conductor vs. Twin Conductor Identification

• A single conductor floor heating system is a loop of one core wire, it starts at the thermostat and ends at the thermostat - this is the original method of manufacturing heating cable. Most single conductor floor heating systems have the same color cold lead wire connected to both load terminals/pigtails of the thermostat. Some early single conductor floor heating systems were produced with a white and a yellow cold lead wire.
• A twin conductor floor heating system terminates two core wires at the end, both wires start at the thermostat - this is the current method of manufacturing heating cable. Most twin conductor floor heating systems will have two different colored cold lead wires, and one of these is black. The other wire in a WarmlyYours floor heating system is either yellow (120V system) or red (240V system).  A few early Environ systems had two black cold lead wires.

Note:

- Not all heating cables are wired directly to the thermostat. It may have been necessary during installation to terminate the heating cable in a junction box, and then run a separate (contractor-supplied) wire from the junction box to the thermostat.

- WarmlyYours single conductor cold leads were produced with a 13‘ length at the start of the loop, and a 26‘ length at the end.  The 120V floor heating systems had a yellow and a white label attached to the cold leads, and the 240V floor heating systems had a red and a white label attached. 

- If you have a single conductor floor heating system and notice that one cold lead is thicker or feels hotter than the other, please contact technical support at +1 (800) 875-5285 

WarmlyYours TempZone™ Flex Rolls and Easy Mats deliver 15 watts per square foot, the maximum allowed by the National Electrical Code. This provides 25% more heating power than the 12-watt industry standard. TempZone™ Cable can be spaced to deliver between 8 and 15 watts per square foot depending on your needs.

Yes, electric radiant floor heating is ideal for basements because it warms the cold concrete slab and provides consistent heat from the ground up. In well-insulated finished basements, it can serve as the primary heat source, turning a typically chilly space into a comfortable, year-round living area.

Radiant floor heating can heat a sunroom if the space has high-quality insulation and double-pane glass. Since sunrooms have high heat loss, a 15-watt system is essential. In extremely cold climates or poorly insulated sunrooms, it is best used as a supplemental source to keep the floor comfortable.

Yes, radiant heating is highly efficient in cold weather. Unlike forced-air systems that lose heat through ductwork and rising air, radiant heat warms objects directly via far-infrared energy. This method is up to 45% more energy-efficient, providing consistent comfort while significantly lowering monthly heating costs in frigid environments.

The best home features for cold climates include a simple gable roof to shed snow, covered entrances for protection, airtight triple-pane windows to prevent heat loss, and radiant heating systems. These features work together to maintain interior warmth, reduce energy bills by up to 25%, and ensure structural safety during harsh winters.

Most systems provide only 12 watts per square foot, which often lacks the power for primary heating in cold climates. WarmlyYours TempZone™ delivers 15 watts—a 25% increase. This higher output allows the system to overcome heat loss more effectively, providing reliable primary warmth even when outdoor temperatures drop.